beauregaardhooligan

When did the vibration start, before or after the brake job? Does it shake all the time above 25mph, or just when you're on the gas? Could be u-joints, you can't always see when they are bad.

Unless you do it right it would most definitely not be worth the risk just for some clearance. Probably not legal either. Might be easier to just put some strategically located dents in the tank.

Take the control arm loose at the center pivot 1st, then the axle pin, then pull the DOJ off the trany stub. That should give you enough slack to knock the axle back through the hub. Loosen the strut mounting bolts under the hood for more slack if needed. Generous application of the BFH is permissible as long as you throw in a few expeletive deleteds.

It is supposed to be a tight seal. The pcv system gets its air from the filter box. If it sucks your hand down, it just shows it's working. Wouldn't hurt to check the valve and hoses though. A properly working pcv system can really help your motor run more efficiently, last longer, and reduce pollution also.

Check my post about '86(?) hatch parts in the marketplace. The trim pieces *were* blue! lol

TJ, you should check the temp with a thermometer to be sure your sending unit and gauge are working right.

I have heard that you can loosen and move the trany back enough to get the bearing, or clutch for that matter, in and out. Never done it myself. Some prefer taking the motor out. 6 of 1, half dozen of the other, they gotta come apart.

Use a piece of wood to cushion the end of the shaft and nut. If it gets beat up they won't accept it for a core.

A minivan will easily handle 6 kids safely and get twice the mileage without wrecking the environment or posing a hazard to other vehicles. sorry, Bill, just my personal opinion. un-hijack

Look for a clutch pedal.

Sounds like the ThrowOutBearing, dude. Gotta yank the trany. Might as well do the clutch while your in there. I think there should be a spring on the clutch fork. If it's not there the TOB wears prematurely.

Thatgirl. you should consider a new radiator, it will save you much heartache down the road.

Take the thermostat out and open the cap to verify the pump is operating by observing flow. Turn the heater on and see if you get any heat. Try flushing it again by using a flush/fill kit with a T connection in the heater hose. To bleed it you may need to loosen a heater hose, the cap on the T of the flush/fill connection, or the thermostat housing. Also park it with the nose uphill somewhat when bleeding. Make sure the pressure rating on the cap is correct.

Welcome to the board! The exhaust gaskets can make a big difference. Be sure the stud holes don't get stripped. Since this is a keeper, replace the studs with stainless steel studs and be sure to clean the gasket surfaces well. The Accel SuperStock coil is an easy upgrade that makes a big difference, but be sure to open the gap on the spark plugs. (Subarus only like NGKs) It may not work with a points-type ignition, but you could upgrade to an electronic distributor fairly easily. The exhaust system could also be slowing you down if it is all original. They get plugged up sometimes. Also change the air filter, pvc breather filter and gas filter(s). The Hitachi is a touchy carb that works quite well if you get it set up just right. The Webber will definitley out-run it, but if you want to work with what youve got, they can be very satisfactory. Run some of your favorite carb cleaner through it a couple of time, and be sure to change the gas filter(s)! Subaru's are notoriously picky about dirty fuel. You may want to re-build the carb, but that is not an easy job. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Welcome to the board! Probably the DOJs (Double Offset Joints) on the inboard end of the axles. If the boneyard ones are original Subaru and the boots are good, go for it.

Dante, if you want torque, stay away from big pipe headers. You can put bigger tubes after the Y pipe, but keep it small off the heads.

I must disagree with Tom 63050. Never pump the pedal while the bleeder valve is open, you just suck in air or old fluid and defeat the purpose. I also never pump the pedal. Always use slow strokes up and down to avoid small bubbles in the fluid. I highly recommend the cheap little one-man bottle bleeders, they work great. I also think that Subarus should be bled in a cross pattern, but it's not critical. Keep in mind if you replace the pads, the reservor will be low untill the pistons are screwed back out, then the reservor will fill back up. If you add fluid and screw the pistons back out, you'll have a mess.

You need to determine if it has spark when it dies.

Check out the shifter fix in the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual, it could be part of your trany problem, but you'd be better off with a 5spd d/r. I think some people use connecting rods from the 1600 to increase displacement. Won't you need a different cam? I highly reccomend the Accel SuperStock coil and opening the spark plug gap to .050. Don't use anything but NGK spark plugs. The biggest restriction on our EA81s is the intake manifold. Also try to find some EA81 turbo heads, they're supposed to flow better. After the motor gets broken in, run full synthetic oil.

I don't know about the Justys. There may be one under the car at the fuel pump and one on the firewall. I'd also recommend running some SeaFoam/MarvelMysteryOil or your favorite carb cleaner through it.

That is the little Hitachi carb, yes? Try changing the fuel filter(s).

The best Bang-for-buck with the least effort I've done to FERTHER is the Accel SuperStock coil and opening the gap to .050. That, and advancing the timing to run 93 octane.

If you have the SuperStock, open the gap to .050. If you have a bad plug, pulling the wire won't show it. Try moving the plug to a different cylinder. A dirty fuel filter can cause a miss.

"Have T&A, will travel?" lol

As far as oil life goes, you are probably pretty close to right-on, Brettm. It is the crud that kills the oil, although synth does hold up better. There are gains to be made concerning performance and economy, though. I switched FERTHER to MalWart'sfull synth (cheapest I could find) and noticed an immediate improvement across the board. Easier starts, quicker revs, and another couple of mpgs. I did extend the oil change to every 5k to help off-set the increased cost. FERTHER uses about a quart in that time. If you're motor uses more that a quart between changes it would not be worth the cost, IM(not so)HO. FERTHER's motor supposedly had less than 60k when installed and hasn't developed any leaks, but I could see how a high mileage motor could. Asavage, can you tell us more about the "cracked" synth? Didn't know there was such a critter. I understand synth is higher detergent also. I can tell the motor is getting cleaner because the oil isn't as dirty at change time as it was on regular oil. Looks like tea instead of coffee.