beauregaardhooligan

Air pockets are possible. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir stays full. You *do* need to bleed the master. There are special wrenchs for opening brake lines, look like a box end wrench with one side cut out. Be sure to use two wrenches, one on the fitting and one on the hose nut so you don't twist the brake line. You *can* bleed the system from any point with a connection. Usuing a quart, or more, is not unusual.

Shiioot, you just *mention* snow down here and the schools close, factories shut down, and stores sell out of milk and bread!

If I'm not mistaken there is a difference between the automatic Justy motors and the manual Justy motors, something about the crank shafts. One won't hook up to the other. But if it was me, I'd definitely put another motor in it, maybe even go for the 4wd 5speed swap. At the very least part it out as much as you can. They are fairly rare and *someone* out there needs it. Just my 1/50th of a buck.

EA81s are approved for aircraft use because there is no belt to break. Generally speaking, the gear drives have more power loss due to friction, but hydraulic lifters can float at high rpms. At least the EA82s are a non-interference engine.

I don't know about Subaru banjo bolt washers, but on my Valiant, they are only good for one tightening since they are made of copper. They must be replaced. You should bleed all four wheels and also at the points where you opened the system. Do *not* pump the brakes at any time when bleeding, this can cause micro-bubbles that come out later. Push the pedal down slowly and let it up slowly. Also be sure not to shake the brake fluid can. Sometimes it just takes lot and lots of bleeding to get all the air out, be patient. I use one of the cheap ($7) one-man bottle bleeders with very good results. If there is a leak, you should be able to see it.

A chiltons manual wrong? Imagine that.

Is there a difference between 1600 and 1800 connecting rods?

Hmmm. Maybe a vacuum switch on the dash? Hmmm.

It *is* part of the alignment process. On older Subarus, it is in fact the *only* alignment adjustment possible. The tie-rods adjust the toe-in. Toe-in is the measurement difference between the inside edges of the front of the front tires compared to the back of the front tires. They should be screwed on an equal number of turns on either side to reach the proper setting for your vehicle. Center the steering rack and use your best guesstimate. It'll do to get you to the alignment shop.

My brother put a colder thermostat in his 5.0 stang which fooled the ecu into thinking it was still cold. This made it think it was still warming up and enriched the mixture. Best bang-for-buck, according to him.

Mitch, turbos *do* blow. Keep your foot out of it. Try cruisin' about 60-65. Ya'll keep in mind, every time you move the gas pedal, you waste gas.

...excellent visual, ErikR.

I don't know if this is applicable, but, when I rebuilt my /6 in FURTHER I put in a new cam. The directions for the cam said to *not* let it idle, but vary the rpms between 1500 and 2500 for 15/20 minutes if I recall correctly. Something about the low rpms could create a flat spot on the cam?

Welcome to the board! Personally, I am more interested in function over form. All show and no go doesn't cut it, in my book. Cars are meant to be driven. Rally that sucka!

Buddy, I'm replying to your pm here because I believe it's relevant to the post. The Accel SuperStock coil puts out probably at least double the stock coil power which really helps the gas burn better and more completely. They come in yellow and chrome (the C on the 8140 is for *chrome*) but are internally identical. Connecting them is a whiz, direct bolt-on replacement. The only possible problem may be with an older points ignition. Also be sure your distributor cap has a breather vent. Most of them do now days. I noticed quicker starts, less lag off idle, more grunt in the lower rpms and also at passing speed, and also at least another couple MPGs. I don't know why Subarus prefer NGKs, but I've had terrible results with any other brand, except Bosch platinum. The NGKs worked just as well and lasted just as long, so I can't justify the extra cost.

Nothing but NGKs. Multi-gap plugs are a waste of money on a stock motor. Electricity will always take the path of least resistance, only one gap will fire. The Accel coil is well worth it, but you need to open the gap on the plugs to take advantage of the hotter spark. I run .050. That sounds like excellent mpgs, though. How big is your tank?

The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. Knowledge, *all* knowledge, should be free. Glad I could help.

Ira, you can get it at the parts store. Prestone makes one, and I've seen others. It is a T connection that you install on the heater hose. It allows you to connect a garden hose to the cooling system and run water through it. The prestone kit comes with a nozzle you put in the neck of the radiator, but I prefer opening the bottom radiator hose to let it run out. That way particulate matter flushes better than trying to force it to the top of the radiator. Don't bother with the drain plug, it's too small and slow to work well. You need to remove the thermostat when flushing with a hose or the cold water will cause it to close and not allow a complete flush. Also be sure to set your heater control on high when you run the flushing solution and when flushing.

One more thing, the engine should be at operating temp. This helps suspend crap in the oil so it goes out with the oil. You can also get magnetic drain plugs that hold metal particles and keep them from circulating. It's really scary what they pick up, but don't worry, it's normal. Just wipe it off good and clean with carb/brake cleaner or whatever's handy before you put it back in. *Be sure* to look for leaks after starting it back up, then check the level one more time.

junkyardgabe, I must respectfully disagree about the thermostat holding pressure. It only stops coolant from flowing thru the radiator. The pressure will be equal throughout the system.

Good call, partsman! I'll try that next time.

Hey, Ira! You *definitely* want to flush the motor before putting a new radiator in, probably a few times. I recommend the flushes you leave in for several hours of driving time *and* a flush/fill kit with the *T* connection in the heater hose. It allows for a positive flush and helps keep air out of the system.

Way to go, Buddy! FERTHER has pulled a truck (full size 2wds) made by each of the big 3 out from where they couldn't move. Somebody came up to me after pulling the Dodge out and said "Where are the cameras? Ya'll are making a Subaru commercial, right?" It don't get no better!

Meeky, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. CIS Subaru is correct about EA81s not having an overflow tank. They are double row radiators with a larger top to allow for expansion compared to EA82s with a single row, smaller top, and overflow tank. If you fill it past the level tab, it'll just spit it out when it gets hot. A common problem is overfilling the radiator, then refilling with water when it burps. After several cycles of this you end up with diluted antifreeze. A 13 psi cap is correct. A overflow tank certainly won't hurt, but, as Skip says, you need a different cap.

Ira, bite the bullet and buy a new radiator. You *and* your Sube will be much happier. Trying to clean a 20 year old radiator is a waste of time and money.