beauregaardhooligan

Barel, you *definitely* want to flush that cooling system, more than once, if it was that bad. Install a flush/fill T connection in the heater hose for a positive flush. Look for a super flush that you leave in for several hours of running time. I don't bother with the drain plug on the radiator, they are usually stuck anyway. Just loosen the lower radiator hose. Be sure to remove the thermostat when flushing, then re-install while driving around.

White smoke could be a blown head gasket. Look for oil in the water and/or water in the oil.

Anybody got a pic? Please?

Incorrect float level? I checked in the '83 FSM. Chapter 4-10, page 4-36, section 2; "Inspection 1) Inspect vapor separator if the foreign matter exsists in it. Replace it if it will interfere with running. {Gotta love these stilted translations!} 2) If water is found in it, shake it with its outlet downward, and water will be removed." There is a return line to the tank, so I'm guessing it will separate gas and/or water vapor. In any case, it needs to be changed regularily.

A weak spark can make for sputtering under load. Does it smoke when it sputters? If you let up quickly when it sputters, does it backfire? Put some new NGKs in it. I'm still leaning toward dirty carbs. Try a hillbilly tune-up, revving the motor with your hand on the venturi. Use your favorite gas treatment and a fresh tank of gas. Skip, isn't the under-the-hood gas filter called a *water* vapor separtor?

1st thing to check is coolant level. If it's not sufficient the hot coolant won't get to the heater. Does the heater fan blow? Does the engine get to operating temp? Too cold a thermostat can make a big difference in cold weather. Feel the heater hoses when the engine is warmed up and the heater is set for heat to see if coolant is flowing, if they stay cold the control valve may be bad/stuck.

From what I've heard this is a job for professionals only. I understand it's about impossible to get one out without cracking it. I think someone was talking about using piano wire tied to a couple of pieces of broom handles to saw through the old gasket. I take it you intend to remove and re-install it with a new gasket?

Vibration in the seat indicates the front drive shaft u-joint, or bent rear wheel . An easy check is to rotate the wheels from front to back.

Since it only happens after a rain, maybe water is being splashed on the radiator from the road. Maybe something is out of place in the grill?

FERTHER averages about 23-29 mpg, depending on how I drive. Carbed EA81 with Accel SuperStock coil. I almost got 300 from a tank once, and the wagons tanks are smaller. My best, though, was 32 following my folks motorhome at a steady 65 mph. I would like to protest the censorship. I like to know what kind of person I'm talking with.

Sorry, it's in my profile. '84 GL 4wd D/R wagon, carbed EA81

FERTHER has 260K showing, but not the original motor.

Remove the plugs (label/number them) and you can turn it by hand, but a rachet or breaker bar is easier. Once you find the mark, hold some steel wool against it and turn the engine back and forth to clean it up, then put some chalk or light colored crayon in the mark to make it easier to see.

The motor turns clockwise when standing in front of the car and looking at it. I have used a breaker bar and worked it so it rested on the ground, but your fan set-up may not allow that. You just have to see what works for your car. You could maybe put a block of wood in there for it to catch against.

Torque steer, or hitting a dry patch on the road?

Is it the front pulling, or the back sliding out? 4wd can oversteer on slippery roads.

Newer cars already have a high-output coil, but the difference on our babies is amazing. Be sure to open the gap to at least .045. I run regular wires and still noticed an immediate improvement, in ease of starting, off-idle response, acceleration, top-end grunt, and mpg. Multi gap plugs are a waste of money on a stock motor. The only advantage would be if you burn oil and foul a gap, the other can work. Electricity 101 says a current will only take the path of least resistance, only one gap can fire at a time. frag; the Accel coil will make your plugs burn cleaner and consequently last longer before needing cleaning, re-gapping. In my experience, NGKs are the only plug to use in Subarus.

Couldn't you just use a hunk of battery cable? Gotta love that "No local pick-up," making all his money off the S&H.

Are all your tires exactly the same size? Different brands can be slightly different for the same stated size.

ainothang. Be Good!

Chris, it's a bolt, not a nut.

Gene, the next time it cuts out, pull the coil wire at the distributor, hold it close to the center tower and see if it sparks when someone cranks the starter. You might want to wear gloves when you do this. Should be a strong, blue spark. If there is no spark, try replacing the module or the whole dizzy. If you have spark, then it's probably a fuel delivery problem. Good luck and let us know what you find!

eyep, that's what I usually do. A trick for stubborn ones is to take out the spark plug, and stuff the cylinder full of rope or string. Be sure to leave some hanging out. Some guys on the board talk about using a screwdriver/special tool thru the inspection hole to hold the teeth of the starter gear.

Gene, you need to determine if it is the spark or the fuel cutting out. Next time it cuts off, check for spark. If no spark, the module in the distributor sounds likely. If you have spark, check for fuel in the fuel line to the carb. It could be that there is crud in the fuel tank also. I've heard of crud getting sucked up on the intake screen and plugging it so the motor dies, then, after sitting a bit, the crud falls off and allows it to start. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Nothing but NGKs for Subarus. Get a new set and replace them all. Clean out around the old plugs best you can before removing them to keep crap from falling into the cylinder. WD-40 works well, but can be messy. Use a gapping tool to set the gap to factory spec for your motor. Be very gentle with the new plugs, they are fragile and can break internally from just a short drop. Put lots of anti-sieze on the threads of the new plugs. Turn them in until they are finger tight. I like to turn them back and forth some to spread the anti-seize around. Then tighten them to the manufacturers spec. I also use di-electric grease on both ends of the spark plug wires. Go ahead and get a new set of wires while your at it.