landofopus

Hey all, I'm having some issues with my 1997 Legacy Brighton Automatic wagon. I took the TPS off to clean it (been having some rough idle issues) and now I'm trying to get it readjusted. At first I thought that I was supposed to do the continuity/no continuity test but after further reading I believe I'm supposed to use the voltage test instead since I have a three wire sensor. From what I've read, you can either backprobe at the sensor or use pins 24 and 25 at the ECU and then look for 0.5 volts with the throttle closed, then up to 12 at full throttle. Does that sound correct? Backprobing at the sensor gets me 5 volts for the most part. Adjusting the sensor doesn't get me to 0.5 volts no matter what I do. And then when I open the throttle all the way, it never changes from roughly 5 volts. It might vary a little bit, but never hits 6 volts and definitely never hits anywhere near 10 or 12. If I keep turning the TPS, I can hear what I think is the IAC start activating. But I'm still at 5 volts at that point. Does anyone think I would get a different reading at the ECU? If so, I'm a little confused about finding pins 24 and 25. I have the schematic from the FSM, but I don't know if that's looking at the back of the ECU connector (where all the wires enter the connector that comes off), or if it's looking into the ECU connector, or? Also, if I disconnect the ECU connector to get a better look at it, is that the same as resetting the ECU? Is that bad? Anything to worry about? Thanks in advance! opus

FSM shows max of .73 +- 10%, which means a max of 803. I have one terminal fluctuating between .9 and 1.0, the other is fluctuating between .8 and .9. Both are out of spec according to Haynes and the FSM. Seems like the few replies here have indicated it not being a major concern, though. Subaru OEM is $130, U-Pull-it has one for $59.

I'm still really curious about those coil values. Is it ok to be that far off, then?

I put the car on jackstands then slightly lifted the engine up a little. I didn't see anything obviously wrong, no broken mounts or anything. I wasn't really sure what good mounts were supposed to be like, so they could possibly be bad. The dogbone off the firewall seems ok. We're taking the car in for a transmission inspection/drive test tomorrow afternoon and they are supposed to check the mounts. I'll know then.

One other thing, I didn't take the IAC valve off when the car was warm since I wasn't sure about the coolant spraying out. Do I need to do that for a true test? Book says it should be fully closed when warm.

Thanks for the reply. I ran Seafoam through the IAC first, when that didn't seem to make a difference I took the IAC off and used throttle body cleaner. I also cleaned the throttle plate at the same time. I've already run 10 Oz Seafoam through the gas tank. Vacuum gauge to the manifold shows 22 In-Hg (or whatever the unit is, can't remember at the moment. Revving to 2500 raises the value to 24-25, letting off the throttle drops it down to 20 or so, then it comes back to 22. You're not worried about the very off-spec coil values for a Diamond coil?

Hey all, I have a 1997 Legacy Wagon, 2.2 Automatic. I've had a vibration in Drive at idle for a month or more now. There is a much lesser vibration in Park and Neutral, but it's still there. Anything above idle seems ok except for a slight hitch once in a while, like a slight misstep. So far I have tried: Checking for vacuum leaks Checking for broken or loose CV axles Cleaning the IAC valve Changing the spark plugs with NGK plugs Changing the spark plug wires with OEM Subaru wires Replacing all the vacuum lines Checking for a leak in the brake booster line, including using the E-brake to see if having your foot off the brake did anything Checked the engine mounts (as best I could). Transmission shop is checking them on Tuesday, along with the trans. Listened for fuel injectors Checked the TPS. One other thing, I had a P0420 code come on a couple weeks ago. I checked the O2 sensors using the bench test (with a torch and multimeter) and they both passed. I also tested the cats using the vacuum gauge test, and there was almost no PSI on either side of both cats, so they're not restricted. I think that's what that means, anyway. Right? I cleared the code after that and it hasn't come back since then. Ok, last thing. Checked the coil just now. The Haynes book says that for a Diamond it should be: Primary: 0.62 - 0.77 ohms Secondary: 17.9 - 24.5 I got 0.9 to 1.0 on one terminal and 0.8-0.9 on the other. They both fluctuate. Secondary was 14.3 for 1-2 and 14.8 for 3-4. At first I thought I had a Hitachi since those values are in spec for secondary and allllllmost in spec for primary. My question is, I definitely have a Diamond. Is my coil definitely bad? The book says if the numbers aren't in spec, replace it. If the answer is yes, is it ok to go to Autozone or O'Reilly's and get aftermarket? Autozone has Duralast, O'Reilly's had some other brand. I'd prefer to take care of this ASAP and not order something online. Thanks in advance! opus

Sweet! Thank you guys so much. This board is the best.

Help! I'm stuck at a buddy's garage with my only car torn apart. Thanks in advance... 1992 Legacy wagon, non turbo, MT. So, I'm trying to replace my water pump, and I'm at the point where I have to remove the left cam sprocket. I tried to hold the cam sprocket with a wrench and try to loosen the bolt, but the sprocket turned counter-clockwise for half a turn. Then I turned it clockwise to get back to the timing mark, but it went past. So, I continued clockwise and am now back to the timing mark. So: 1) How do I hold the cam sprocket enough to get it loosened? Chain wrench? 2) Did I mess up the timing by rotating the left cam one more revolution, but not the crank or right cam? Or can the cams just spin all they want, as long as you come back around to the mark? If I did mess it up, how do I get back to the right spot?