ivantruckman

shes fine a little pride hurt, shes a very good driver, first mishap in 20 years of marriage almoast ready to hang the new fender light bucket and side marker

all seems ok, its still on the frame rack, im trying to pull the front panel out so i can put a headlight bucket in, no weird pulling or vibrations. i drove it for about 100 miles till i had time to fix it

that looks like a condenser , let me check my car... looks like it runs between the + side termenal and ground. maby to take out voltage spikes, should run without it, it may screw up your radio with noise ?? you should check all your ground wires, it can do weird things to your car if their bad

i could see if it was a 4x4 dual range , but an auto, i dunno, look for distortion on the strut tower, like paint cracking or metal wrinkles etc this one has no suspention damage and holds an alighnment fine i would buy it , because these cars are hard to find in the east coast of the usa, i have a 92 loyale 4x4 auto, i like it, it does rev 4k rpm or more at 70 mph, so i drive it around town as a beater

are you using auxillary lights or somthing, seems like a monster battery is overkill , there kinda expensive too, you should be able to buy all the components at walmart, except the 2 guage wire.. tractor supply has wire, 4 guage black and red . you could use welding wire to, its more flexable, and its better suited for abrasion and oil resistance. 2 guage is kinda big this is a link to a wire chart below it has a voltage drop calculator http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

oh the humanity, i had a totally different idea of my wife doing a pole dance, other than my wife and my rust free 88 wagon doing a dance around a power pole for valentines day

cool take some pics of the front subframe repair. in the future i was going to explore the fesability of a complete cut out and rebuild of a floor and subframe, these cars are getting hard to find , in rust free condition, i have three wagons with this problem

ive had the float valve stick on me . ie...the actual float drops but he pin sticks in its bore, a little 800 grit paper fixed the burr in the seat

The whole engine locks up, or just the cam shaft. i know that the cams can be tricky to get to the exact alighnment mark. i would think a engine swap would be more work than just a rebuild. more info is needed

Subarus are not a high altitude vehicle

on my 1986 gl wagon wheels, the plastic ring for the center cap cracked , or kinda crumbled, has any one found a place to get these items , arrgg. no luck anywere. i wonder i can make a mold off the good one and use a castiable urethene, has anyone had this problem

my rims beveled themselves just by tightning them up

Man i would kill for a gl wagon body shell, i wonder how hard it would be to scale one down

my 91 loyale does that alot, usally if i drive it short distances, less than a mile a day, a good hiway run cures the problem. when i first got it i used sea foam and marvels mystery oil, ran the heavy detergent additives for about 100 miles and than changed the oil and filter, it works much better now. also the -10 degrees F. dosen't help much

i used a cheap 20 dollar harbor freight spray gun, with the latex house paint

I have used a "flat acrilic latex exterior house paint", you can get it custom mixed at home depot to any color , Ive had it on my car now for 7 years. of course you have to wet sand with 600 grit paper and use lacquer thinner to remove any wax or oil , proper surface prep is essential.

Caro Michigan . the heart of the thumb (its a michigan thing)

did you check your hill holder spring ???? these calipers rarely seize

http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx try this

A lot of it depends on your skill level, and if you have a welder plasma cutter , metal saw, it would be cheaper to bild your own kit, but easyer to go with a sjr lift, sjr does all the engineering for you , i had to calculate all the angles, it was kinda confusing and i had a lot of re dos too

if the battery will only crank for 20 seconds, i would get a new one, your voltage is probably dropping as soon as you crank it causing a weak spark, if the plugs are old you may not even see a spark, you could man up and check it on your hand if your elbow jumps a foot or more you have good spark... ...ar ar ar

Sweet

Rock on, im on the other side of the mitten, not to many of us here, hey post some pics of the car...thanks Ivan

reciever drier and tav , i think the oriface is in the thermal expantion valve, they should bolth be replaced