ivantruckman

i havnt been able to find a replacment shock thats ajustable. i put new kyb's in an used a nylon block the same height as the hi ajustment

if the battery is discharged it could be frozen, try to bring it indoors, in Mi we have been just below frezing, do know about Mo

is your C E L on ?, it could be a number of things, like o2 sensor, dirty throttle body, maby even a plugged up cat? is it running slower than the regular slow?

http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx try this link , they work good for me

the rubber block can come loose from its mount too, you can use some good zip ties and some epoxy, works great. ill try to get some pics tomorrow when i get back to the shop

i beleive there the same. i have been able in the past to get an off the shelf bearing and press it in, i would save the old one and rebuild it, for a spare

because of the rust i had little choice, i also needed to trim the lower rear door, im using a flat camo sceme for paint too, its alot more forgiving than a normal paint job

i was able to get 27 inch tires under it with no lift kit. and no bottoming at all

some pics of my cut job... http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=fendercut.jpg i made a cut along the upper fender arch line, leaving enough material to weld to, about 1/4 inch ..do not cut thru the inner fender , you will need this later to curl upwards , and to weld together, you can use a pnumatic muffler tool. harbor freight has them for under 20 bucks http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=fendercut2.jpg you can use the material from the inner fender , hammering it upward http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=fenderhamer.jpg then tack weld it, grind it down ,than putty it in http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=PICT0033.jpg i did the front too but theirs no inner fender to weld too. i just used a peice of 1/2 inch round stock and hammered it around, and streched it a little http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=frontfender.jpg

plane ticket 800 bucks, sweet steel pugs 28 bucks, 828 bucks :-\ sucks to live out east somtimes

my kit has 20 k and still going

this is an eastern subie, in the rust belt of mid michigan http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=fendercut.jpg

most of the problem is surface prep. what grit paper did you use and did you use a surface prep solvent just before you primed ??? oils from sanding and your hands can affect adhesion. if you have bare metal you can try an acid etch primer, and wet sanding between coats with 600 grit wet paper, even if you grind all visiable traces of rust it almost always comes back.

they used different distys for 4 wd and 2 wd as well

the sealant between the lens ant the housing can fail. i clean it with a wire brush and then use silicone around it, also check for stone chips, you can silicone them as well. you can use a hair dryer to remove the moisture before you seal it up

4wd, auto,yikes i would trailer it

my 3at loyale does about 4000 rpm at 55 mph, other than that its a great city car

check all the engine ground wires for corrosion, my 91 loyale did the same thing

is your fluid dark, i think you would find out alot if you drop the pan. look for shavings either steel or bronze or copper flake. the dark fluid is from worn friction material, any shavinngs are from hard parts, either one isnt good

this is gunuine east coast rust http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=rust4.jpg i had to uthenize this ole girl, it was a sad day

hey scott ..the pipes are 4 1/4 od .125 wall i cut the flanges with a plasma cutter, i cut out a template out of wood , and use a drag sheild. still a lot of work to do. and steel prices have gone up big time, i used drop peices at the local steel shop, but i still have about 100 bucks in small peices of steel.. http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=blockinstall.jpg

my guess would be oil and water, the condensation inside of the engine heats to steam and rises to the top of the engine and cools slightly on the cooler under surface of the oil filler cap

i wanted to do my own lift kit, im a stubborn cuss.. i found out why others get the money they are asking. these kits like scotts are actually very reasonably priced when you consider the time involved in fabracating, but i have to prove that i can do it, but im considering buying the next one. day one http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=strutower.jpg http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=6inchblocks.jpg http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/ivantruckman/?action=view&current=liftkit1.jpg

i remember being able to get a seal from advanced auto, but that was for the ea82

the rear are shocks, on my 86 and 85 ea82