archemitis

thats what is in my motorcycle. higher watts do seem to burn out very fast compared to stock ones. and my bike has very bad vibrations

sounds like a stretched cable in need of adjustment.

horsepower and torque are supposed to cross at 5250 rpms. theres something up with the dyno

' hes got something called horsepower. get off the gearing already, you just need to learn to floor it!

subarus and puegots are the only wheels you will find with the 4x pattern. pugs are cool but they dont stick out far enough for some people. i think the 6 lug conversion wit chevy, or toyota wheels is the best option. the 90s toyota trucks have a nice offset for wider tires, and that means less bashing.

on my efi conversions i have the computer in the rear of the car, where water wont get to it. i have taken a waterhose to my engine compartment and everything worked out fine, with the stock connectors, and no dialectric grease, they are pretty waterproof. on ea81s theres a huge hole on the passenger side of the engine compartment, just perfect for efi wiring to run through. put that computer in the cab, where it belongs!

building that kind of exhaust takes alot of equipment, or lots of mandrel bent pipes that you have to weld together. expensive, and hard to get them lined up just right.

wut? thats reely funny morganm your exhuast studs are set up for ea81 exhaust, with the breather spacers, thats why the turbo pipe is opposite compared to yours. it bolts onto any ea82 with no mods, on the ea81 cars, they need a different x member so the xover pipe clears. not sure about the ea82 cars, but some have just modified thier original xmembers to make room. the only downfall i see is that its a poor colector design, its not so good for turbos, and even worse for an na exhaust. but im sure its better than a stock ypipe with the cat still in there. no 02 sensor hole either, but subaru efi dont seem to care do it! i second the tractor flapper idea

pick one to try for a ground. then start trying the other two, its very easy to figure out once you start playing with them. you cant hurt them this way, so theres no real danger maybe someone else will chime in that knows for sure, but i think the one by itself is the ground.

if you had a bottle, you could read the directions and follow them. its best to use right before an oil change. you run it in the hot engine a few minutes before you drain the oil. you dont want to drive around with it(too much anyway) in the crank case because it thins your oil, and can starve bearings and things for oil. it works pretty good, but will not preform miracles. since your hlas sound like a mild case, it'll probably work well, might take a few oil changes tho...

i always take the axle out first. its all about the angles. when the whole axle is in your hand. take the outer boot off. then bend the joint to almost a 90 degree angle. then one ball bearing should be able to pop out. rotate to another ball bearing, and it should pop out. after about three pop out, it will slide out. but then i like to get the cage, and the rest of the balls out of there, just so its not slinging balls, and greas down the highway. its like a japanese puzzle. just bend and twist till stuff pops out. the only retaining ring is on the doj, the one closest to the tranny.

bout 15mpg with er27 28s and a 4 speed... oh and a heavy foot.

you are excused. you must not know about the stuff i have done because i didnt call make a whole web site about the "ultimate hatch" or whatever, but i promise you, i know what im talking about. wiring is easy. you just read the diagram, give the right wires power, and subaru did the rest for you. the motor mounts on xt6, and ej motors are the same, and sit in the same position. if you put an ej, or er, or svx motor in an ea car, you have to make custom motor mounts. if you are puting a svx motor in a xt6, you can use the svx motor mounts... or wrx/sti mounts for that matter. honestly, if it was a clutch issue, wouldnt it drive by now? yank motor, fix issue, reassemble, drive!

best thing for a carb is to take the air cleaner off. theres a small lip on your carburetor. you can clamp a rubber hose onto it. i used a mpfi elbow. you can then put some tube on there and have a cone air filter wherever you want it. the stock airbox wouldnt work well with a snorke, because there is so many spots on the stock air cleaner that dirt/water can get into.

ya, i know about efi.... i have had efi subaru engines runing on engine stands. oh yeah, your that guy that never got his ej runing right? well it is that simple. wiring is the easy part.

i have an xt6 pressure plate bolted to an xt6 flywheel, with an ea81 friction plate in between the two... with no machining, just a special tob the combinations are endless.

youd need a transmission, or an adapter plate. it'd fit with no problems.

not true, several people have used the spfi block (9.5:1)compression with turbos with no problem. you can safely turbo 11:1 compression as long as its tuned properly. the increased compression does not warrant any ecu or fuel adjustments. only boost. the spfi computer wont give you enough fuel because it wasnt designed to be turboed.... but since its a hotwire it will take "some boost" without problems though i think 4 lbs is about the tops with the stock spfi stuff, and no other mods. its been done a couple times;)

the er27 is a heavy beast. it weighs alot more than an ej. im guessing 75 lbs more im sure somebodys got numbers. exhaust and intake make a huge difference by themselves. stick a 2.5 inch exhuast behind the y pipe(after you gut the cat) and put a big cone filter on, crank the timing, and you will like it alot more. theres alot of metal you can take out of the heads, and intake, that make a good difference too. take the heads off, flow them, and deck em, so you can get up to 10:1... on the turbo stuff. these cars have a maf sensor, so it should be good with boost with out any other fuel changes. the na mpfi motors take well to boost, so the 6s should be the same

ya, off idle power is the coolest. like 1000 rpms =] with the big motor, its got more rotating mass, so it can crawl a little better than the 4 cylinder...

you can strip down the harness if you want. there are extra things in there that you will never need, but... if you just leave the wires all bundled together. shove them through that unused hole right in front of the glove box. then run your computer under the glove box, you can leave all the wires on the loom and not worry about them. i put my computers back by the fuel pump, where the rear seats usualy sit. next swap i plan on stripping it down all the way, but they dont have to look like a squirrels nest, even if you dont strip it down. look for my er27 pics, thats as ghetto as id want to drive down the road.... having said that, i have had a computer sittin in the spare tire area, with wiring looking almost as bad as the yellow wagon, and this one. ran just as good wiring efi is super easy. you just need a couple power wires hooked up. i never understood why people use the whole harness from the donor car to rewire the entire vehicle, dash and all... too much work

i have ran the er27 on a ea81 4 speed dual range for at least 10k miles. it had around 150 stock. its freshened up a bit, with 2.5 inch exhaust and open intake. so its gotta be pushin a little more. the tranny held fine. and after i got a good clutch, that held fine too (8 7/8 inch flywheel/clutch) seems like the 5speed internals are the same material/style/strength as the ea82 stuff. once you hook up, it should go like a raped ape. no different than all those turbo vtech kids fartin around town.

150hp is BIG PIMPIN in an ea car. even with alot of hp you still have to hit stuff at speed with any subaru offroad. they will never crawl without alot of work/parts =[

after a few soob motors, i pulled the last one in 45 minutes, thats without a sawsall, or cutting any wires. im sure these old ones are the easiest motors to work on in the world... im tryin to think of something easier, but the only thing that comes to mind is a lawn mower... that is, untill you ad a turbo and intercooler, and all that stuffs.

turbos are not for offroading. im sure somebody will post some pics of those wrx powered rock crawlers, but thats not us. ej, or er is the only way for big hp offroading. spfi and mpfi and even carbs work well too