archemitis

so this is just one of those "what if" threads huh?

hahahaha pre stolen, thats great the main deal is i can weld to steel, but aluminum is beyond my stick or wire feeds means.

water on a halogen will do that, silicone it up.

the o2 sensor will never make you ping. the main thing these cars look at is the maf. if its a bad maf, you will have a car that doesnt run well. if you have a bad o2 sensor... well, not much happens. i dont run one on my xt6. and morganm is not currently sporting one either. im not saying that its cool to run around with no o2 sensor, but id look elsewhere for any problems with pinging. carbon in the cylinders, would be another thing to check, if the maf is good. or the water temp sensor for the computer.

its the only way subaru alternators have ever died for me. they start chargin like crazy. i usualy have a sub wolfer in the car that i can crank to use up the extra voltage. it only works a little bit. its the voltage regulator crapin out, and lettin the alternator go full bore. i ALWAYS have a spare alternator with me on a road trip, in a subaru.

we aint stealing road sighs! i know the subaru crowd is cheap, but man, thats crazy... apparently, you'll be the only ea82 with cuztom skiders yo! since im weldin em up, were gonna do it the easy way... my way... =] jk, just get a half assed idea, go buy some metal, and we'll rage it!

hahaha that makes you go in reverse!_! i looked at mine, briefly, doenst look like its gonna work. if it did, i dont think id do it, it would stick the diff way up. I like it hangin low! cuz thats how i roll.

how would that stuff know that i want 3 thousandths clearance on my crank, and not 2 thousandths? rod to crank, and crank to case clearances are so small, ading "Stuff" all the way around seems not so good. and how does it know what the part is supposed to be shaped like? reparis 80% worn pieces? scary

they fit right into a ea82 wagon, with only one bolt not linining up. i never worried about it. i like how low you can sit in a wagon with those seats. its super duper lowrider style. on my hatch, i lost the height adjust, so its slammed on the floor perminately. best seats ever!

that sounds suspiciously ghetto.

dry nitrous is alot like dry 53x. dangerous! Here is the best and first real NITROUS KIT for your GOLF CART, POCKET BIKE, SCOOTER, GO-KART, ATV, MOTORCYCLE, CAR or anything else you can think of. If you want the biggest bang for your dollar here is the nitrous kit that will significantly increase your horsepower GUARANTEED. i love that part. golf cart is listed first! then car is last.

carburetors have a bowl of fuel, that they draw on when you floor it. more pressure, or more flow wont help a carb. it only needs 2-3lbs to keep the bowl full.

another vote for "thats not offroad"

hope this isnt gettin too far off topic, but. i went from the carb motor, with a weber, to the mpfi motor, with 95 hp or whatever. not a HUGE difference, but surely noticable. im all about the power =] good to know it was at least jetted close to where its supposed to be. i always figured it was Way off. i have a new one, jetted for a subaru(supposedly) sittin on an ea81 hatch. it has bad throttle response, when i stomp on it. what am i doin wrong mcbrat?

did you rejet it mcbrat? the way it was set up, it had low end power, but nothin mid to hi range. on an ea82 hehe, i said basicaly to start two seperate sentences in my last post.

that vac number seems low. i think mine would suck down to about 18 at idle? hope someone else can chime in here, i can look at my xt motor, its close to 20 as far as i can remember a vac leake wouuld cause wierd problems. or a bad iac valve, letting in air when it shouldnt.

bouncing at part throttle is good. when you floor it it should go pretty far into the rich, and stay there when you keep it floored. if it doesnt stay steady at wot, and it still bouncing, somthing is wierd. hows your timing? any trouble codes? did you reset the computer after the o2 instal? my spfi was always a bit on the rich side. but it was almost as fast as my xt6 motor for some reason?! pulled real hard. i advanced my timng alot too.

it realy is too big of a carb, it is an upgrade for 2.0 motors, that make more hp than our tiny underpowered 1.8s parts are not an issue. has that guy heard of the interweb yet? by itself, you wont get any more power, but add exhaust also, and it all works well together. basicaly id say keep the hitachi over a weber, unless you need a replacement carb. if its your only option, its better than a leaky stock one that wont idle. seems like most people have trouble gettin them right. they either have good full throttle and no low end and bad mileage... or good mileage, and bad performance... some people are completely happy with them basicaly if your a carb guy, and have been all your life, they might be a good deal. but... instead of learning about some tube with holes in it, and a bucket of gas underneath it..... i learned EFI. efi has never let me down. i love it!

i am a big fan of gettin it runing first, then hacking up the harness...

when i do harley heads, i use the bits made for aluminum. they dont clog, but they do take out a huge amount of metal at once. they make the chips fly, and if you get even a little out of controll, you dig a big hole. when im doin little heads like these(where hitting a water jacket is a big deal), i use the cheap conical bits made for steel. they clog up, but are more forgiving if you slip. realisticaly you should take the valves out and sharpen the valve guides, and enlarge the port a bit around it(the guide). and you should have your valves recut with at least 4 angles, as i think subaru used 2 or 3 maybe. or a safer bet for a first timer. just use sanding rolls, and clean it up alot. for the guys doin it without taking the valves out... make sure all of that sand and aluminum is outta there before you cram it down into the cylinder. you can get as much as 10% hp from a good flow job, from what i've seen.

it seems like a good compromise to me. the car companies always make the turbo motors just a little bit too low compression for me usualy. i ran stock boost on a 9.8:1 compression geo storm 1.8, and it made for some crazy quick turbo spool.

id try the ole rock slosh trick again... i work in the motorcycle industry... when old tanks get rusty on the inside the best thing is to bead blast it till all of the rust is gone, then have a radiator company "seal" it. you might call a radiator repair company. their acid bath that they use for the radiators might work on gas tanks. but i know they will seal clean ones. that product you mentioned exists for motorcycles. i have tried a few different kinds, and none worked well. i would not recommend trying it. you end up with rust chunks floating, that are now coated in paint type stuff. on my brat with a bad tank, id just carry spare rear fuel filters =/

if your puttin in a motor, goin with a carb is not the coolest thing. wiring an efi motor is no big deal.

whats goin on now?

i still wanna know how you think they arent getting "enough" its most likely not the brain. its somwthing with the signal going to the computer. IF the fuel pump turns on when the car is cranked over(and the disty is turning) then your computer is getting the signal from the cam angle sensor. its most likely the signal is not getting from the disty to the computer. dont start takin apart more stuff. it might be a wire, inside the disty thats broken, or something totaly unrelated to the fuel system.