archemitis

no doubt about that. brats are good stuff... your first one? they get almost as many looks stock, as my lifted hatch does... just tryin to be realisitc =] cars are money holes for me. some people make them profitable tho...

i agree... unless you sell it the day you buy it, you will never get your money back out of it. lift it, floor it, beat it, junk it...

if you dont go into hopping up the ea82t... im sure you have room for about 6 inches of more motor right? subaru made an h6 with the same bolt pattern as the ea82. it came in 89-90 xt6. 2.7 litre. 150 hp. and its na, so its ALOT of low end torque. but an ea82t could arguable put out more power, if built proberly. but then you get the lagg..... no replacement for displacement right? =] they do make adaptor plates for the ej22. then you get to look at wrx stuff

i thought about this too, but when you look at it, all of the torque goes onto the center sleve, and the inner bearing races. the only way i could see that bad bearings could do that is if they siezed , and spun in the hub. then it all goes bad.

happened to my buddy goin up a hill in an spfi subaru, 2wd. the car was carrying one 300lb driver. 4 passengers that weighed 150+each. stripped right out. wierdest thing i have ever seen. my ea81 2x would come loose about once a month, three times, never spun the splines off tho. i always figured it was from incorrect install... but i pound em on with a hammer, so i doubt that =/

id guess radiator. the "cooler" in these radiators, is just a 8 inch piece of metal tube, that goes through the 190degree coolant. its not much of a strain on the radiator, as it doesnt cool the tranny too much either. either the rad is screwed, or plugged. make sure water can flow through the fins on the condensor, and radiator. and make sure the radiator still has fins. or take out the ac condensor, it blocks alot of air from the radiator.

with such low miles the engine should be clean, right? the hydrolic engines had a chrome sticker on both valve covers "do not adjust valve lash" or something like that.. afaik, thats the sure fire way to tell. i bet its solid lifters unless its an auto...

when you have a stock lift cranked in, all the way up, it feels like you are driving a tractor. real light crappy steering, due to the camber. when i build my lift i made the front strut extensions compensate for this, so with no lift, i have pretty good camber, and with the lift cranked it, its just like stock.

basicaly jim... you buy a lift kit if you want 4 inches of lift. you can get one more inch in the front and rear, by using the adjustable front shocks, same in the rear. lots of people have done it. if you want more than that, you start from scratch, and make a 6 inch, with no suspension lift at all.... with the same amount of travel as your stock subaru always had =/ the more spring you put on these little things, the less up travel you get, and since its already sprung out, you run out of down travel too.

way cool!_! work on the reaction time =] last weekend one of my buddies pulled a .007... twice! i swear hes psychic. at around 60 mph, you could probably run the whole 1/8 in low range =0

afraid your mileage will be pretty horrible, compared to a stock one.

a properly built skid plate is never a band aid fix. once you have one, you can slide over that stuff like its a ski on snow. i think you might be exceeding the limits of the car in general. join your front and rear lift blocks, with rails, then put plates between them. id like to see that diff lowered. watching the zapar videos, those guys were breaking axles like mad, and they had normal cv angles... chux, if you go on the 4th of july, we could have you and morganm do a side by side comparison of how they go over the same obsticals. on film of course =]

when the diff is spining, there is as much oil at the top of the housing as there is at the bottom. it slings that stuff like crazy. you could run it low and everything wuld get oiled.

i was regretting posting this after my lunch break. my h6 in my hatch just died on me. luckily it turned out to be that set screw on the rotor, under the disty cap. lucky me =] the only dangerous part for me is the lack of a front sway bar. not too bad.

seems like the fan comes on right around 190, maybe a little hotter. id check it sometime to make sure it is functional.

not tryin to start a brag war here, just wondering how many of you daily drive your lifted soobs. i figure i put about 800 miles on a week, in my lifted one. since its summer i drive the motorcycle more lately, but even lifted and beaten offroad, it still gets me to work... almost all the time... and only partly dangerously.

to clarify, one of the wires on the negative side of the coil goes to the computer, and also serves as a cam angle sensor for the computer...

the injectors get 12 volts on one side. they all fire at once when the computer grounds them all at. why do you think they arent getting enough volts? they should have 12volts, right off of the fuse box. sounds like your fuel pump might be the first thing to look at. check to see that you have fuel in your "rail" lol. your motor has to be turning for your fuel pump to get power, unless that relay has been bypassed. these systems are pretty low tech, as long as the computer has power, and the disty is spining, it will fire the injectors. no fancy oil pressure shutdown switch on these beasts either. get some high pressure fuel to your injectors and see what happens... and by the way, you cant see the injectors opening if you use a volt meter. they just open and close too fast to see, on both my digitals anyway. and... there is supposed to be 12 volts on both sides of the injectors, untill they fire. the power goes through them. that screwed me up one time =] EDIT:oh ya, getting spark has nothing to do with getting the efi working. it is pretty much an old style independent ignition system. not tied to the efi. the only thing the computer sees from it is the spining disty, for the fuel pump relay. good luck

when you put legacy suspension, in place of the air, they usualy sit an inch or more higher. lower looks so much cooler. i like the yellow one, it needs a scoup.

elkamino, i have one out of an 85.wagon

i wrapped mine in bubble wrap and threw it in the back, next to the battery. otherwise, you can put it behind the glove box, if you dont have ac.

these cars dont have frames. they are one big piece. you put all the xt6 suspension on the brat and get the correct ofset wheels. not so crazy and wheres this er27tt?

torqing them is inportant. not too much, and not too loose. and expect them to start again in about 15k miles =/

i have an 86 dualrange mpfi wagon...

after driving a rear wheel drive, higher horsepower hatchback, i think this would be the coolest thing for a street car. i've seen it done with 80s vw pickups, with a big ole build van motor in the back. a hatch with no weight in the back is hard to manage in rwd, i wonder how hard it would be to steer with no weight up front? popin wheelies around corners instead of doin power slides, seems scary. i hate how far subaru engines hang out in front of the front wheels...