archemitis

reman axles always suck. subaru sells remans that are alot better. never understood how they could make a bad cv new again. they use the same cups on both ends. the cups are what gets scored, when the ball bearings get bad. you rebuild one with new balls, and you still have bad cups. at least its life time warrantee right?????

having cut through one... they seem like normal mild steel to me. it is subaru, and it was the late 70s when they thought of them. so cant be too much technology in there. they are mounted with rubber, cant be too much stress. they are nowhere near as hard as springs, or shock rods. heat er up, and let er buck!

yes, finaly! did they take a honda blank, and dril the subaru holes in there? seems way overdue. hope you sell a ton. pugs, and 6 lugs are a pain in the rump roast. technicaly, if a dot guy, or engineer saw everybodys pug setups they would tell you they arent safe. the center hub doesnt even hold the wheel, like they are supposed to. the lug nuts should never be the only thing holding your wheel on. but i have 6 lugs so i feel safer. and iver ran the 4 lug pugs and had no problems, but always seems scary. looks good. totaly different than pugs. i would like about 4 more inches of outward offset tho =]

you might be overthinking it. the wire from the regulator goes to the main fuse box, then back around the long way to the battery. you can put the regulator wire(12+ charging power) right to the battery. i have heard Garner on this board had trouble when he didnt wire in the charging light on the dash. so might want to do that. the two wires off the coil. one goes to positive, one goes to negative. then the positive side gets 12+ from the battery. so on the coil, you only need the two wires from the disty. one 12+wire from the battery/fuse block, and one wire for the tach(you gotta have a big fat tach =]) goes on the negative side of the coil. the starter. gets power straight off of the ignition switch. so any 12 volts put to the solenoid, will turn the starter over. that and the main 12+ wire going direcly to the positive on the starter. i have a push button and a toggle in one subaru, wroks well. sounds like a fun project should be as easy as wiring up a 70s v8

i have two cars that dont need them. but my offroad subasru(the one i change all the time) is hard as hell to install. i hammer on the hub, while holding the axle, but my hub is getting pretty deformed after like 10 axle installs. i thnk id like one of those tools

looks like as tall as my hatch... whats the big deal? i've lived with real hippies(20-27 year olds) they smell, cuz they voluntarilyy dont shower for months on end. but in general, are nice people. HA s... now those guys are something to complain about.

but... 30 is space, so no car is supposed to suck 30, or over.

you guys didnt read that too thoroughly... if you put manifold vac to your breather hoses... you will be sucking air from your lower end to feed your engine. put that hose thats Ted to a breather filter and vent it to atmosphere. plug whatever hose you used to give it vaccume on the manifold. that explains why it dies when you take the oil cap off. you make a huge vac leak! on old engines. if your stuff is plumbed correclty, you shoudl get a little pressure from the oil filler hole, never vaccume.

i went with yokohama geolandar ats 215 75 15s, on toyota 6 lug alloys. with a full 4 inch lift. i had to go small(28) because i still like doin circle burnouts, and goin 90 down the highway. i think youd be disappointed with anything smaller than 235 75 15s. morganms liberators are tough. mine have razorblade cuts all over them, and morganms are still solid. cheap too. oh yeah, morganm still goes 75+ on the highway, loaded with camping gear. ps, i shoulda gone bigger =]

works well. less clutter. do it =]

i love my rwd. i drive to the offroad spot in rwd. put in the front axle, then 4x4 it. (partialy because i have a front bearing going out)i have no problems with the rear end, or xfer case. on the CD morganm and i are making... there will be a video of me doing a three circle burnout, on dry pavement, with 28 inch all terrain tires, and an open diff. its the coolest =] edit: i've driven in rwd for 13k miles, with 24 inch tires, and a 1.8. and now with the 28s and a 2.7 fun fun

ok... my hatch is runin reely good right now, and should still be by then. where are we talkin here? columbus ohio? wisconsin has some good offroad places we could camp and wheel at... i'll try to make it wherever it is, whats the dates?

im sure thats aimed at makin me look dumb, i was going by the inch and a half comment.

mudder trucks!

um... theres no way hes working with a non lifted rig, if hes runing those tires.... you have to cut the fender back, almost to the door, then pound the metal back, with a 5lb hammer, or an air hammer works good too. your gonna be hammering closer to the clutch than anything, and i've never had a problem pounding it way back... cept for the whole door adjustment afterwards =]

pssst. they got about twice your hp... dual range is not a must. but would be crazy fun.

cut out all of the rust, then weld new floors in to the solid metal. that converter stuff is asking for future trouble. 16 gauge, in think, is easy to form to fit, and weld to the subaru unibody

well, its not some pinked up sti =] its obvioulsy the Hatch! short wheel base, no long bed hanging over the back tires. weighes the least. looks the coolest. runs faster, jumps higher... all that. hatch with an overhead cam motor and your good for the street, and offroad.

yar, you dont have jugs... you have two crank case halfs, with the cylinders attached/sleved in the aluminum case. huh huh juggs.

hrm, so my digi camera shoots 40 second videos at one time =/ so... i got a buncha subaru moneyshots! just the business stuff. no gettin there, no technical stuff... just hittin hills, up and down them. in cab movies, and outside shots. some lifted subaru burnouts and drifting!_! sorry, my tires dont smoke that much. comming very soon, in the marketplace, with a nice twist...

i was thinking by the title that you finaly drove a DSM with 20 lbs of boost!_! you'll never see me in one of those things, people offer me free to cheap subarus all the time... i ask them what year, after about 91, i loose interest.

i use the stock coil power wire... thats the only thing connected into my stock harness. put the computer behind the passenger seat. and ran the wires through the passenger side hole...

that turbo will work fine. fuel is alot like oil.. theres not much to the seals on these little turbos, and i dont see what fuel could hurt on them. its all metal.

its a bolt on project, as far as the tranny to motor goes... but you have to cut out the top and lower radiator supports, so the front of the motor fits. then you have to re enforce the unibody, i used a big steel bumper, and a strut tower brace. radiator is the biggest problem. its got lotsa torque, but... its lotsa work. makes everyone look your way when you floor it. oh, and i break alot more stuff now.

its funny, morganm went everywhere i did, but my Yokohama ATs have razor cuts all over them, some almost cutting a lug off. but the liberator ats have no cuts... they seem good to me. oh ya, cheap =]