archemitis

as far as i can measure. it has 4.5 inches to the outside of the rim. if they measure at the bead, its about 4 inch. i measured from the mounitng point on the hub, to the inside of the wheel.

oh its feasable... you grind all those others off, run the one on the dash, and the one in the engine compartment. engines get swaped all the time. if it was a camaro, or a muscle car, i might be worried, but on a subaru... nobody will ever care.

the rubber mounts are for the comfort of the general public. there is no way im putting more stress on stuff, cuz its not moving around. it makes the car stiffer, as the motor becomes more of an integral part of the frame/unibody of the car. the only thing im worried about is pulling the unibody apart.

theyre alot bigger and alot heavier, and bolt on differently at the top.

speaking of burnouts... just light em up on the road, and shoot sparks for a while!

switch the vin and never look back! the only moral delema id be dealing with is ripping someone off in the future, with the incorrect vin. but if your just gonna keep it, switch it up! you could probably just switch plates, and never have a problem(dont do that, just saying) couldnt you get it totaled, and get a salvaged title? or does that still have something to do with the loan?

ya, i have had two sets of bfg ats in the past, and i do chew up the sides pretty quick... but... cooper has always beeen on that same level as general, as far as i have always thought. i just got my 4runner alloys, that i have to paint, so i have some time to decide.

your signature makes it look like you actualy did all that to your rx... might wanna fix that

my next try will be using chain. take two links, linked together. weld one side to the top plate, and the other to the lower plate... at idle it will move just enough, but when you torque it the chain will limit its slop.

so if you didnt sift through all that crap, the sti mounts would be a waste of money for a guy with an ea81, or ea82, or er27, in an ea81, or ea82 body. too tall. modify the stock ones =]

the problem is if you use the sti mounts, your motor will sit up, about an inch. messing with dual range shifters, and putting a big angle on your cv axles(yes, i tried it) so, i took the big mounts, threw away the center rubber part, cut alot of crap off of it with a sawsall, and only kept the part that bolts to the motor(mines an xt6 motor in the little car), then used the ea81/2 lower part. if you want, send me your mounts, and i will make them solid, and unbreakable for 5 bucks. or bring them to a shop, and have them weld a steel plate to the side, making the rubber useless. the only thing i notice from the solid mounts is a bit more vibration at idle. on cars that i have solid motor mounts, and rubber tranny mounts, i ratchet strap the tranny to the x member, makes a huge diference for the slop, just by itself. but on my hatch i have solid motor, and tranny mounts.

xt6 alternators are stamped dsm, and have the mistubishi diamonds on the case. my key, and ignition say "for nissan only" on it. my throughout bearing is a nissan pickup part, made by nachi. i resently had trouble with an assumed good clutch, glad you got it figured out now

i agree, scary it wont work either way. might i recommend having a spare tire built? maybe just carry a 185 on a stock wagon wheel?

is it carbureted? it sounds like a breather hose, or an air suction valve. it should be hooked up to something. if not a pcv, a filter. the only thing not having the air cleaner heater tube hooked up to the exhaust, is that it'll take a bit longer to warm up. i never have them hooked up

tried to email, but for some reason, its slower on dialup, than the usmb. can you make the ones in the pic of my hatch? also, i will send you money today for a full set of xt6 decals. =]

since i put all this time into my subaru, i sure aint limiting my driving to offroad only. i want it to be my commuter too, and i like goin 100. and i live in minnesota where i will surely need to drive on the street in the snow, without fear of losing traction... so i've decided on some all terrains, instead of super swamper. its come down to these two. 235/75r15 dunlop rover rt $90(GOODYEAR) http://www.dunloptire.com/dunlop/display_tire.jsp?prodline=Radial+Rover+RT&mrktarea=Light+Truck http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Radial+Rover+R%2FT or BFG all terrains of the same size $105(SAMS CLUB) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=All-Terrain+T%2FA+KO they are roughly 29s please offer your opinion ps, if my assumptions about mud tires are unfounded, please, put me in my place.

that avitar was just gettin to me. mine'll go 100 with big tires, thats why i cant rage the super swampers:brow:

oh it'll do it, but you'll be riding on your ball joint, even with big tires. the only way to do it would be air suspension. take the flat off, crank the front strutwith the air in the tire, all the way up. chain up hub with no wheel on it. as the gangsters say..... 3 wheel motion!

like i said, i've seen it before, just with mismatched parts. i also agree torque wouldnt do this .

me too. pics? could the disc be in backwards? sounds wierd.

you must be mixing ea81 and ea82 flywheels, and pressureplates! its the only way. i've done it before myself, but never installed it to see what happened. trust me, your pp is fatter than it should be, so it compresses the springs too much. all of the clutch discs are the same thickness. you can have your flywheel machined to fit the pp if you want, or get an ea81 flywheel. a search should show how much different it is.

my gmc 4.3 tb had 150 hp, just like my 2.7 litre er27 from a SUBARU. a vortec would have more hp, but would weigh alot more with the cast iron block. subaru makes cool motors... i swear!

afaik different depths only exist between ea81 and ea82 stuff. if its the big clutch, and its an ea82, its all the same stuffs

ya, wjms dyno numbers would make any sane person think twice about doing an ej swap. i mean its nothing compared to an ej22 turboed, but its still nice to see its possible to get good numbers out of these little crap boxes =]

i've heard roomers of putting up to 50percent bigger injectors in the rail, and tuning the maf up to meet the fuel demands of higher boost. but without a fuel cut, youd have to push past 14? to max out the stock stuff.