archemitis

they seem just like the old shocks... then again, when i went with the rancho9000s on my 4runner they felt just like the stock ones to me too so, i might not be a good judge

not only a worn bushing, it could also be a wire in the disty. mine did this, had to solder it back on.

if you guys want it, morganm has a pretty good shipper around here for things like trannies, and engines. maybe he can chime in with an aproximate shipping cost. id charge you guys 25 bucks for handling, and whatever the shipping is. i'll have it for a couple more weeks, but i might have to tear it apart to look at if it sits around longer than that =]

so the roomers(how do you spell that?) are true. chevelle shocks fit on the rear of a lifted ea81, with very minor modifications. had to drill the top holes out to the 12 mm subaru size, then i slid the metal sleeve from the original shock into the new shock bottom. and bling! they compress 2 inches smaller, and are 4 inches longer at full extension. i forget the travel, but its about 4-5 inches more than the stock shocks. had to paint them to show off the chevy heritage! =] oh ya, 15 dollar monroe gas charged, they come in white.

6 inch seems kinda useless, because of what mudrat says... build a moster rig with a tcase. with a 4 inch you can fit 28s-29s, and still have the power to turn the tires. but if you go bigger, like what youd mostlikely do with a 6 inch, youd be driving around in low range just to get moving. i always thought either go 4 inch, or realy realy big =]

do you realy? it slipped out of 5 th, but other than that it was ok. i checked it after i pulled it out, and its not smoked on the inside, from the tow. diff lock works.

thanks for posting that, never seen an ea81 one up close. that byb one is pretty much like mine, cept i did the bottom differently, cuz my ban saw broke, after i made the top two plates my dad swears you dont need it, he thinks longer shocks will work, but he dont get it. i told him he could try it on his rig, but not mine.

that guy in asheville is too laid back for me. never shipped it, but never charged me either... im still waiting for that one... i should call him. actualy its off of my gfs xt6. we got it with 250k on it, the clutch was slipping. then the clutch stopped slipping, and only made alot of noise, like a pilot bearing would. since it held good, we left it in there. but one day, she tells me its gone all of the sudden, after she heard a clunk! pretty crazy, im thinking it was a cheap clutch. or the car has been severely beaten on.... we towed it with 2 up 2 down, and said **** that old rump roast quarter of a million mile tranny, and stuck in a new clutch, with a 100k mile tranny. i'll post the brand later, possibly one to avoid... not sure tho

hard to make, and even harder to find a picture of on the web. seems to corect camber, just like it should. its a 4 inch lift. had to bash the inner fender pretty good. tires sit like they should, this is my first try at it... i have ideas for better ones, but im runin this one for now. straight custom!

this is the best clutch ever! i love it. the engine revs reel good with it installed =]

unless thats solid bar stock... looks like = or less strong than stock.

unless they have urethane, instead of rubber, id say go with the dealer... for the first time!

we could all blow all of our ac into the atmosphere, and gut our cats, and still not compete with all of the gigantic suvs that the majority of the public demands the junkyards are supposed to recover all of the refrigerant... i stopped taking that for granted the first time a subaru squirted its freeze juice all over my hand. i hate it when work makes me damage the environment... you can feel the loss of power that the ac leeches, but the real drag is the condensor, blowing hot air on your already hot radiator! i swear ac can put a dying subaru over the edge.

my gf goes, "what are those tractor tire treads?" hehehe, gotta love the super swampers! and the hatch! you pretty much have to look all cool when your representing most(if not all) of south dakotas lifted subaru population! =]

wd40 wont cling well enough. engine oil is the thing to use... whenever an engine sits for an extended period of time, the rings rust to the cylinder sleeve. start it up, and it shaves it all off.... not good for the engine, but not uncommon.

yar, 2 inches is all you get... and i hear technicaly the byb 2 inch lifts are illegal over there...

you can cut the exhaust off right behind the cat. then you have a good place to weld to. the pipe coming off of the rear of the cat(just like the other pipes) is heat shielded. try to weld the shield, and it burns through pretty fast. chux, any x over under there will be asking for trouble offroad. its hard enough tuckin one big pipe under there. stock y pipe, with a 2 inch pipe, back to a thrush glasspack, or supertrapp, right before the rear axle. ps, make sure you cut those cats!

or run it, and it will get hot, and the water will evaporate.

anyone know if the rear main seal on the xt6 is the same as the ea82? im assuming yes, but not sure. thanks

a 110 mig works, you just gotta rage it! and know what your doing. but a big ole stick seems to be what is recommended. unless you have a fancy TIG =]

how many cars do you know of that use the stuff? the good thing about it is that is seems to leak less than the standard powersteering.

its realy not that big of a deal. with my er27, compared to the old ea81, i cant tell the difference, cept it plows through snow better now.

the welds should be the absolute last thing to break.

that fozzy thing sounds like something fun to try.

that avitar makes me want to avoid your posts now... scary stuff =]