archemitis

like i said, its all about what you like. needless to say its very fast, and is mostly a drag racer.

a lift is not a necessity for offroading. i have had tons of fun offroading a stock ea82 wagon and brat. you did say you didnt get stuck, thats the big deal. i think any muffler tip will crush under the awesome force of the wagon!

the previous 3 pages show huge support for purolators. i like em.

dyno oil is dyno oil as far as im concerned. theres gotta be a reason that mobil, makes the cheapest real name brand oil, and mobil1. that walmart oil is most likely a rebadged oil, who knows maybe its mobil.

holy crap, do those old brit cars have the metric,and, a half hardware too? ive had to grind down open end wrenches to work on triumph motorcycles before =/

heheheheheheheheh, i know exactly what you mean, i think. if you just use the vent line, it goes into this little reservoir, on the passenger side wheel well, then it fills that up, then drains to the fuel tank... hehehe, the key is to take that tank, thingy out, and loop the fuel into the correct hose, that goes into the top of the fuel tank, you cansee how the hoses go if you look through the rear wheel well, they curve around. i then vented my cap. pluged all other tank vents, and plugged the original return line, as it is about as thin as a tooth pick. the vent is alot bigger for some reason... er big enough. what fuel pump are you using? can you post a pic of the wires you have coming off of the harness? i think you have to get two wires from one of the big green plugs, and 1 or 2 from another one right next to it. i leave the whole harness together, and pull the wires i need off of the plugs, where the computer harness fuses with the dash, and fuse box harness.

maybe 30 hours... im bad with numbers.

they arent too hard to make, but... then you start to build one, and then you realise... when you buy one for 400 bucks, somebody has already tried and tried to make it work, and hunted down all of the hard to find bolts, and tested the crap out of it.... the lifts pk is selling have been on subarus in australia for 10+years. some refinements have been made since then, and since they have been made here. if you try to make one, it would most likely take you 40 hours of work(including hunting for bolts, and waiting for special orders... picking up parts)... thats about what i have into mine. total ground up research and development. its finished now, but took me about 2 weeks to weld, cut, fabricate, hammer, bang head, think... all of that. i have seen some GHETTO lifts in my months of hunting for ideas, so dont be one of those guys if you decide to build one.... i guess in short, im saying dont build one... =]

my pics would not help. unfortuantely. subarubrat.com has an ok pic of his chopped down xt6 harness. mine consists of the stock harness from the computer to the engine. thats the only part of the harness i use. you basicaly wire 2 new relays, install a high pressure pump. use the fuel tank vent for the return line. and floor it! =]

slander! =]

its all crap, never works. heat and force!

whenever i cant get an efi swap to work, its ususaly something totaly unrelated to the swap. like a mis stabbed disty. technicaly, you should be able to put a hot wire to the +side on the coil, that gives power to the coil, and tells the computer to turn on. the big red wire(the power wire for the injector) is power, that gets power all the time. hotwire your fuel pump, and it should start. to refine i use the original relay in the car, and the original +wire from the original coil. put that to the plus on the coil, and that parts done for you. wire inthe fuel pump relay the correct way, and put a fusable link on the main red wire.... mind you, this is the way to do it using just the computer,and harness(from computer to manifold/disty.), not the whole dash wiring and all.

hehe, they got lucas on british motorcycles. triumphs. "the prince of darkness" is what we call em. cuz your headlight will never work! also had a spitfire, not sure if its got the same stuff as the jag, but it kinda sucked in the wiring departement. in this gumball movie i saw, with the guys from jackass, they took a jag and all of the guys in the race were sayin theyd never make it home cuz the jag would break down in no time. money sink... surely more than a subaru is.

yes, junkyard is obviously the way to go. mine had 200k miles on it, and still worked fine. definately not rebuildable. one from a brat will fit my yard is out of ea81s also =/

i know this is all relative to how much you like driving cars. i like my car with no interior, and reel loud exhaust. i like my solid motor mounts, rough idle, and all that funn stuff. that said, i have driven my cousins mitsubishi eclipse, with the welded front diff. its not as bad as you would think. its a street car only. its only REELY hard to turn when he has the rear axles in, and all diffs are locked. then its straight line only. but with the front welded, its not so bad. tire wear is however =]

i fit 25s on pug rims on my unlifted hatch with only a half inch of fender removal, near the front and rear of the front wheel wells. they fit with no stock lift cranked in(till i got a 6 cylinder). i think 30s would fit with a 4 inch lift, and some fender trimming... alot of trimming. and bashing. you realy shouldnt be afraid of cutting the fenders, its what almost all subaru owners have to do to get the tires you want... i always figure it would suck to go through all of that work for a 4 inch lift, then run tires 2 or 3 inches bigger than stock wheels. width is only a big deal because the fater tires will rub on the springs on your struts.

ive had one clackin for 23k miles now, no bid deal, you only hear it at idle.

where did you order all of that stuff from? looks like about 700 bucks worth of stuff where i get mine

you want to loose horsepower and reliability? start talkin ej22, its narrower, more reliable, more hp,same wiring issues will have to be dealt with. wont a geo storm motor bolt in? they have 150hp out of a na 1.8

front and rear factory tow hooks work good, untill they rust away

it doesnt fit, it could be made to fit, but its more than just making the holes bigger, or slotting them.

i just reread your post realy carefully.... i have one with 250k on it, which never blew a head gasket, and has never had a valve job! i think your ok.

ports clean? as in flowed? the only real reason to have the valve job done is if you are: A: going to flow the heads 2: they have more than 100k on them c: if your already spending alot of money and want it done, and done. since it looks like you should do it, you should take the valves out, go to town on the ports with a dremel =p or a real die grinder with some sanding wheels. if you dont know what your doing just smooth out the ports, cant realy mess it up with sanding wheels, or strips of sand paper.

but that guy in the picture, behind the rig, standing next to his toyota pickup feels my pain too =]

man... stuff like that isnt even inspiring... its discouraging. makes me look out at my rig and think i should just be saving to realy go big. or building a tube frame instead of all this steel im bolting on to my dot approved car =/