archemitis

so the boost is measured in lbs, and the vac is measured differently? if you have a gauge thats set for bar, is it the same way?

i noticed no difference in mileage.

i have blocked off several. leave the wiring hooked up. and plug the hoses.

its fun, i ran alot of the summer in my hatch, in rear wheel drive. with the ea82 mpfi it was still underpowered, so the only time it got noticable, was in the rain. spun a full circle once tryin to get around a corner fast. theres not much weight back there, which equals not much traction.

yes, i agree with snotrocket. no need to have full power potential untill your car is up to operating temp. and thats even a few minutes after the choke opens up all the way.

if 1 bar is 14.whatever. and your car is creating vaccume, it should be more than atmospheric pressure. space is around 30lbs of vac.

well, i dont know if you can go strictly off of vac. timing will effect vac. and compression, and mileage can effect it, alot

silicone, around a carb?! thats scary a carb is air tight, it works off of vacum it has to be sealed up or gas and air would get out and in. you will be cool with the snorkel on top. unless the throttle shaft is worn out it shouldnt suck any air or water anywhere other than the air filter area.

around 20 is good for a subarur. my xt6 only sucks down to 22 lbs

forgive my ignorance. does it cut off the injectors? or cut fuel pump pressure, or use the fpr?

i got this car that will beat everything... but i gotta build it... and pay for it, and learn to drive it:lol::lol:

IF all my cars are fankensteins. =]

hook up the cables backwards? sounds dumb, but it happens, and can do the same thing. check your fusible links, under the hood, right next to the battery, unless you included them in the fuse check. see if youhave power to the fusible links, then the fuse box, then the coil. work your way back till you find no power.

just want to make sure i got it all straight. i have a strong ea81 lower end with solid lifters, i use the heads off of a hydrolic lifter motor, with the larger valves. i use a brat cam for more offroad grunt. and ea71 pistons for higher compression. is that as good as it gets, aside from dual carbs, and very rare parts?

wierd, and scary. i know about a couple motors around if your plans fall through.

its all normal in cold weather. happens all the time. the colder it is, the worse it is, on my cars. you runin a 195 stat? mine did it worse with a 180.

toss that er27 in there, i think it would be less trouble.

the idler with the teeth on it siezed up right? same thing happened to morganms rig, 250 miles from home. it will only route one way.

hasnt this been addressed, and solved, several times?

i have an spfi long block, 204k on it. never overheated. you want it shipped to you?

hahahahahha deleted

if its a y pipe, and its for an ea series car, it will fit. the only difference woulb be air suction valves, and an o2 sensor hole, thats useless, for carbs anyway.

yar! pucks rooool, i need one bad all of the sudden.

since its a maf, and not a map, it should compensate for at least 3-5lbs of booost. unless you run it in death vally it should think the boost is just very low altitude. it has been done on an ea81 with spfi, but it wanted to blow up, so rrfpr should help lots. =]

pimptastic! i finaly got my oldman liking subarus, after seeing morganms wagon, he wants a lifted tcase moded hatch! =]