archemitis

i keep thinkin i did it, then it wont do it again... er27 into a carbureted car. i have spark and fuel, if i try and start it with the pump hooked up, it gets too much fuel and floods. if i unplug the pump, it bleeds off the pressure with a few cranks of the engine, then runs for about 5 seconds, then dies. when it runs it only goes up to 10 lbs of vac, and im lookin for around 20 at least. so that makes me think my fpr isnt bleeding off enough pressure, because of a giant vac leak. well, the giant vac leak is the idle air controll valve, or whatever. but it wont run without it... anyone think that disty timing would make your car have less vac at idle than it should? ug help =/

thats scary, use a plastic straw, or plastic bic pen body if your gonna try that. but im about to measure mine for ya. mcbrat, they are so close, what if your are a few degrees off because of this? just a thought

i made a special tool for the front, its a giant 21mm wrench with the box end wrapped in duct tape. use antisieze, or penetrating lube, i broke one once, and had to weld it.

would it be bad to use a chevy transfer case behind an ej tranny? i came across one for cheap, and i have never seen a samuri, and its only a bit bigger than my toyota one, but its cast iron... should i keep looking or use this one?

i swear my old 2x wagon with the spfi engine(it was a newly rebuilt junkyard score) was as fast as an xt6, i dont know why, but if you floored it in second gear, after being hooked up, it would spin the tires. compression = power

use the tow hooks, or the xmember in the front, and the rear... big block where its supposed to go. the rear tow hooks are much weaker than the front.

nice, most subarus(non boosted) i have pulled apart look like a ball hone and a rering is all they need. you can usualy still see the cross hatch from the initial machining even on a 200kmile motor. so standard rings should work for most peepl.

as far as i can tell that should work perfect. its funny, the timing holes on the ea81 compared to the ea82 are very far apart, but whenever i remark an ea81 flywheel for the ea82 engine, the tdc marks only end up about 15 degrees apart. miles fox confirmed this when he was up here last year. then only thing that i would worry about is the initial timing of the disty. if your disty sits at 15 degrees advance at rest and you point the rotor dead on at 1, then you will be marking a 15degrees advanced mark. im pretty sure the rotors dont just sit at 0degrees. maybe i can just measure my ea81 flywheel marked for the ea82 and tell you how far apart they are.

sell it to a ricer, and buy an ea81 car then start thinkin crazy. most trans axle cars have the engine and tranny centered over the wheels. on subarus the front axles are way back on the tranny, and the engine hangs way out in front of the wheels... so basicaly, with a probe, youd have to rear wheel drive it, with no front... but ya, get a turbo, mazda made a great motor =]

the front struts adjust with two nuts on the bottom of the lower spring collar. you could have them, but after many many years, most have been changed to non adjustable ones. the rear is a torsion bar and its got a nut you can turn to raise the rear.

ok, thanks for all the help. i think my wiring has been fine all along. i think i got it figured out now. its gettin too much fuel to start, if i unplug the pump it starts and runs for about 5 seconds, i plug in the fuel pump, and it smells like gas but doesnt start unless its wide open throttle... so i must have a vac leak on the vac hose giving vac to my fuel pressure regulator. i hope it starts when i get home and keeps running =]

its efi, the maf will see how much air is goin in, and it will adjust the mixture. miles fox has ran the spfi, on a carbureted block, with the lower compression. i think his words were dog turd on wheels... a bit slower with the lower compression. but its gotta be better than a carb no matter how you cut it =].

i'll send you one for 2 bucks! pm me.

mine broke, so i just pluged the lines going to it, and my egr is welded up anyway. you dont have emissions laws out there do you? ditch that canister while your at it too =]

i hate to disagree, as much as i love mobil1 but it deffinately makes my motor leak more than when im runing castrol of the same weight. its not a myth, if it happens to you. but im talking a few more drops per parking spot, nothing huge.

you guys are a bit too sceptical, if they sell it, it must work. seriously, i ran silver solder on my toyota v6, it worked for 6 months, but when it went again, it was way too far gone to try any sealer. if the first one you try doesnt work, your gasket is too far gone for help from the likes of snake oil =]

yes i agree

i love the pics of all your mods, but damnit man! pressure wash your engine bay! =]

thats a ford probe/mazda intercooler, i always liked that one. use prebent exhaust tubing, and silicone, or rubber couplings. use around 1/78, since thats close to what the tubes were on the probe, and it'll keep your spool time quick. theres a recirc valve that you can plumb in, from the probe/mazda.

mine does this, i suspect the plug, since i can put duct tape on it and it doesnt do it =x

yes, every gallon you buy is full of detergents, and all kinds of addatives... we get 10%ethanol up here in corn country =/

my first subaru was a wagon that sat for about 4 years, as far as i can figure, maybe a bit less, no hood on it. i started it up and changed the oil, coolant, and put gas in it... it went for 20kmiles with no problems, till a timing belt went out in a blizard. but ya, all those suggestions above this one are great ideas too =]

and as a side note, that subaru master was not put there by me =]. i am by no means a master. master cobbler maybe. naru, by the looks of it, if i have sparks, i must have a computer thats doin its job right?

yes, this is my problem, my diagram is confusing me. i should be able to give power to the power wires, hotwire my fuel pump, and start her up. when i give the white/red, which turns into the white/red, the computer turns on, but the diagram tells me the computer should turn off when that wire is powered.... maybe its just timing thanks for gettin me thinkin guys, im strictly self taught here, no one to ask, or chat with about this subject.

only on the fuel pump tho.