archemitis

the 85 to 86 is just a carb disty, so it doesnt have any way of electronicaly retarding the spark. its all centrifical, and vac. i think the knock sensor on old ones, just gave the disty some vac, when it knocked, which just reduced the advance, to somewhere near idle.

the weber wont give you any neck snapping power, but its an ok upgrade. and the only real way to get more power from efi is to either go turbo,with mpfi(multi port fuel injection),or high compression with the spfi(single port/throttle body efi). or another combo of the two.

if its an ea81 car in your sig. id say junkyard. the later ea82 cars came with aluminum radiators, that didnt fall apart nearly as fast as the copper ones. as long as its not full of oxidation, those work well. you just have to drill two new holes in the top, and mess with the lower mounts a bit.

i agree. the knock sensor is a stand alone unit, that retards the timing with vacc. the early ones relied on the maf almost totaly to know whats goin on.

so whats the limiting factor on the 87+ systems. how much does it do it till. like if you ran normal timing and set it at 20lbs of boost. is the maf sensor the limiting factor? or the fuel pump, not putting out 20 extra lbs of fuel? i would hope that the er27 responds the same way.

i think snowman might be on to something.

aac? wuts that =]

i have seen you say this. are you sure? i thought it just retarded the timing when the knock sensor was trigggered. which fuel injection, early, late?

thats a great idea, theres one more reason to figure out how to stick the trip computer in my hatch =]

and actualy, its not that low. you must have some nice coilovers or something. i thik the air suspension has tall bump stops, because they know they will fail at some point, and woundt want the tires to hit the fenders at highway speeds. oh and, four of the cv boots that i could see were freshly torn, and one rear is clicking, so its bad for that too.

it wasnt as bad as i imagined, but if it was any worse, i wouldnt have been able to do it. passed some honda kits, they looked at me like i was one of them when you hit any bump, it does start bouncing, very bad. and i tried to launch it off the line, from a stop, and it would jump off the ground instead of taking off.

i got a good deal on an xt6 that was a couple hundred miles away. no way i was passing it up, so i told the fellow board member to hang on to it for me, and id come get it. it had air suspension, but now its shot. drove 250 miles on bump stops! my tail bone and rump roast hurt, my neck hurts, i think i might have messed up my inner ear because now i have an ear ache. the only reely bad thing it did to the car is put some very funny cupping/bunging paterns in the rear tires. i managed to catch air on the highway a few times at around 70 mph, i thought for sure my tires would have exploded on a few of them. the girl friend wussed out and decided to ride in the car with shocks for the ride home. lost most of the exhaust, and quite a bit of rust on the way home. i got some pics to post of the most lowered xt6 ever. surprisingly tho, the front bumper, or the rear diff dont even scrape. looks real cool sittin still =] no lsd =[

it doesnt sound at all like pinging to me. pinging sounds more like a ball pin hammer hitting a anvil, or a little bell. the pattern does kinda sound like pining, but im confident its something else. otherwise you would probably notice it in at least third, if not second gear also. like you could put your foot into it when its lugging, and then youd get pinging for sure, if its gonna ping at all. it almost seems like its a speed related thing,

my plug is messed up, and it does that, i move it around and it stops momentarily, or id check the temp sensor for the computer. the plug or the sensor... maybe =]

have you ever thought about a flat6, might i suggest an er27? then you have alot more to start with. 100 hp per litre is a pretty good number to shoot for and 270 would be cool in any subaru =]

it was surprisingly hard to find, i searched by my name. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20086&highlight=throttle and why cant i paste the easy way on the usmb

so wjm... all of those 400 hp ea82t numbers you promiced wont even be attempted now? ea82t on high boost as a daily driver not as reliable as it should be?

if you hooked up a vac line wrong your heater controlls will do wierd stuff, that might exibit the same symptoms. you didnt remove the little canister with the two vac hoses going into it, on the rear of the passenger side strut tower did you? are you sure the fans turning off and not just switching ducts?

well, if your vac. going to the heater controlls is not hooked up, it will only blow out the face vents, not the defroster, or heater or anything other than the face vents. can you select from the floor to the defroster ok? sometimes they just need some duct tape where the sealing foam has eroded.

think the wiring is pretty easy, you just have it as a stand alone part. all you have to do is power it, ground it, have it controll a relay for the fuel pump, and hookup the trigger wires on the coil, and connect a wire from the computer to the starter solenoid wire. then the rest plugs in like stock to the engine/intake. thats on the flapper system, i think the hotwiere would be easier, as you wouldnt have to run the trigger wire to the coil. dash and everything plugs in using your stock wiring from the car, even if its an ea81. i love it! it all fits!

they are at least 20k mile tires, so you should get your moneys worth out of them. i have had good luck with the sams club ones too. general grabbers, and grabber at. and coopers are good and cheap too. pretty much any new tire will be better than bald ones in my opinion =]

this thread needs to die! =] a blower motor would restrict flow if anything, even at idle. a fan does not creat booost. the pressure will just slide off the fins out the opposite way of the engine. if you want cheap, gas leaf blower is proven to work

stay away from dual exhaust. they never work good for me, morganm, and i have both tried a few different ways of dual exhaust, withdifferent mufflesr, no mufflers, etc. i like the stock y pipe, gutted cat in the center, then have 2 inch come out the back of that y, back to a glasspack, or muffler of choice. does wonders compared to the stock one with two catalytic converters, and a restrictive muffler. cams, high compression, intake. rage it! or fuel inject it =]

i'll be honest, i have had the rears apart to crank in the stock lift, and looks like the shock can be replaced without buying new springs. but on the front, do they not come apart? can i not just replace the bottom part of the strut, just the shock absorber part? the prices i have gotten were 85 a side, so 170 total. i dont have thatmuch money into the car after owning it for 5 years =] kind of an exageration, but not that far off.

sorry bout that, its for my 86 ea82 4x wagon. the ones on there now say kyb, and have the factory height adjustments on them. with my new motor, when i floor it, a wheel almost comes off the ground, and is kinda fishy on the highway.