archemitis

my girlfriend went to the junkyard, pulled two, just in case. came home and installed hers, for the first time, in... 20 minutes! =] it was hanging by three pieces of cable

oh one more symptom i just remembered, when its cruisin down the highway, and your not accelerating(wich is rare in this car) just tryin to hold a steady speed, it bucks... like almost dies, and stops making power. press on the pedal, or let off a bit, and it goes away, and runs normaly. im gonna pull some codes today, and see, but no check engine light has come on.

i have used some efi system cleaner, and done some checks for vaccum leaks, but i havent found any very obvious reason for this. after it warms up, it either, idles very low, and dies after coming down from higher rpms, or it pulsates at idle, bouncing from about 250, and 750. tps, maf?

sounds like something else to me. i wish i knew what. they all pulsate, as far as i know.

discs will own you! once you go to rear discs, you wont want to drive one without them. its surely worth it. and a very easy junkyard upgrade. drums are 60s technology =]

so... if i have no lift and i move my er27 back about 2 inches, it shouldnt be any worse on the cvs than cranking in stock length, right? ea81 hatch. i konw about the frame rail fitment.

or you could just use the tranny that bolts to it, that subaru made! im tired of all of these what if posts. you could do it... no problem, but WHY. removing the two front axles is a permanent rwd fix. moving the subaru tranny back would be cool to get the engine centered over the wheels, but with a subaru transmission.

i have 4 that have the plastic/stock cap thingy, and 2 that i broke, and left off... this is on my toyotav6, and i have ran it that way for years. couldnt ever tell the difference.

ya, my hatch with the aluminum pug 15s is good at 100, but down around 55-60 it vibrates, seems like the same deal with my ea82 wagon. i reely should just wait till one of these kids with an sti, or wrx wrecks this winter...

ya, i have new ball joints, tie rod ends, no axles up front to wobble, its as good as i can get it alighned, it just seems like all of the older subies hobble at certain speeds. i used to think it was just the crappy little 13 inch rims, but now i have 15 inchers, and its better, but not super duper cool, like i want it.

well, i just drove an xt6 for the first time, and it seems totaly different than any ea81 or 82 car. it doesnt wobble around on the road, or jitter, at certain speeds, goes straight =]. i know my cars, and the cars im refering to weretn in the best of condition, but they seem like night and day. my question is, if i put the 5 lug conversion on to my ea81 hatch, will it handle like this xt6?

no i mean in general, i never understood the need for a rear ebrake, dudes in the ultimate drift competitions, and in off road rallies, you just floor it. the only reason i see to have one is if you are front wheel drive.

bull****, you downshift and floor it. thats why you got power back there!

um... my brats fuel pump was in the same spot my ea82 wagon, and ea81 hatch.

looks good, might have to do that.

if you look at them side by side you will get it. the spfi has two holes in the heads, and manifold. the mpfi, is multi port, so theres twice as many runners. wont bolt up

the spfi has one injector, and the mpfi has 4 injectors, the wiring is totally different, and the computors arent interchangable. its all or nothing =]

they are all in the same place, right in front and to the rear passenger side tire. outside of the cab. you just follow the fuel line down to the pump, and fuel filter. i have a part number posted somewhere around here, that works good for an efi swap, and is only about 40-60 $$. fits the ea81 carb fittings fine, then you just replace a few feet of worn out low pressure rubber hose, with efi hoses. i tried using the carb pump in the back, to feed the efi pump in the front, but it didnt work well for me, mine is now inside the cab, right above where it should be stock. nice and loud, i can hear it working. =]

1.3? is that a reel engine? is it destroked 1.6 or debored?

you could probably very easliy, get a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, like the turbo honda guys. just turns up the pressure in your fuel rail, or in this case fuel casting =], richens it up when it sees boost. just runing the spfi with the turbo at stock boost lvls will not work too well, as far as i can remember from what Rgyver told me. i think it blew up? or at least he didnt use it that way for long, but he aloso had nitrous on it! either just run the spfi intake with the harness and computer, and bolt the turbo stuff onto it. also you have to grind out a spot for the turbo up pipe to go on your crossmemeber, or get a turbo crossmember, from an ea81t. or go find a mpfi ea82, change the timing belts when you should, and floor it! intercooler for the win =]

show me a dyno sheet, it sounds like snake oil unless you have a turbo.

and lsd in the front, i dont think you are gonna be able to do that with a dual range tranny. and its easier to fit bigger tires, on the ea82s, with a basic lift kit... till you get all crazy like the divorced transfer case guys.

i love ea81 bodies, but hate the underpowerd nature of those cars. i like dual range, with big tires26inch, and bigger, i dont see any need for a 5th speed so the 4 speed is good for me. the big 8 7/8 clutch flywheel is better than the little clutch, that was on the earlier models. its more common for the ea81 bodies, to have less options, like power steering, ac, power locks, and windows... all the luxuries. theres just so much to think about, but if you start with any ea81 body style, with the 1.8 or bigger motor, and a dual range manual, its a great bullet proof starting point. but if you want more room, you may want an ea82 body style, slightly larger, usually loaded with all the options. rear disc brakes are a huge increase in braking power, especially when the car is loaded down. efi is the best, unless you like going aftermarket, with something like a weber, or efi swap. spfi is very powerfull, and simple to work on. HATCHBACK FOR THE WIN!

i have steam cleaned several motors, and my cousin has water cleaned, a 300z turbo, and it actualy showed around 15 hp increase on the dyno. just stick a vac hose, in a bottle of water, and rev herup. =] if you used water injection on na, you wouldnt even need a water pump, just stick the hose in the water, and it sucks it in.

um... it should take power away from a na engine, why would you ever run it on a motor with just 9.5:1 compression, and no turbo? if your na spfi is pinging, you have other problems, that you could fix witout spraying it with water =/