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archemitis

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Everything posted by archemitis

  1. wjm, i have taken apart a few clacky ones, and the damage to the balls, and cage, always looked very minimal, can you repack clacky ones, with any good resluts?
  2. i have never had goodluck with platinum, in high copression, or turbo cars, so id say forget about those. my fav is ngk, or nippon denso, u groovs. indexing is cool, but i doubt you would ever feel the performance gains, might just help with pre ignition, when you get closer to the ping threshold =]. also, if your runin high boost, or like playing with such things, you could find a colder plug for the turbo, might help, but again, its hard to feel performance increases like those.
  3. my gutted 4x4 hatch, with an ea82, and xt6 seats, weighs, 2100 lbs. morganms 4x ea82 wagon with big tars, and a lift weighed in at 2780, but he had tools, and all kinds of crap in there.
  4. if you have the boot off, you can spin that little ball bearing retainer, till one ball pops out, then the whold thing rolls apart. to do this, you have to take a hammer to the outer stub axle part, to knock the axle off the cv joint. it might be the proper way, but you run the risk of damaging your good cv, if your practicing on a good one. or you might not get it back together as quickly. new grease is better than nothing, especially if all your doin is replacing a torn boot, but if it was torn for long, it could have debris in there, that might lead to clicking down the road.
  5. green fuzzy radiator is a sure fire sigh, the temp guage should sit at half way, or around there,sometimes less, a high guage is a good sigh, its goin out. the struts replace jsut fine with legacy stuff, so junkyards are stocked
  6. air suspension shot, electric power steering broke, with all subarus, the radiator must be in good condition, or it will blow up very soon. check the mileage on the timing belts/tensioner pullies. torn cv boots, or clicking ones. other than that,they should be jsut as tough as any subaru, wich is very tough! way more tough than ford tough!_!
  7. you got the same efi i have, and that wont keep you from starting, i have that wire unhooked. battery! dont trust parts even when they are brand new. or your starter. i have pulled a alt. out of a box, installed it, and it was bad.
  8. my old brat did that, started grinding away the only solution i could come up with(after welding didnt work, cuz it was all rust) was to run it in 4x even on the street, worked good, till it got even rustier =/.
  9. its hard to pay much over 200 bucks for a car that doesnt run, even tho its an xt6, you still gotta find one of the hardest to find motors, to stick in it... or an ea81 carb motor would pull it around pretty ok too =]
  10. i thought there were carb/mpfi pistons, spfi high compression pistons, and the turbo pistons. 3 different ea82 pistons, right?
  11. just get one of your buddies that likes the green stuff, to hot box it. as soon as he passes out, the mouse must be dead =]
  12. ya, power to both terminals is bad, deffinately bad.
  13. well, since the ea81 is just a stroked ea71, the pistons for the ea71 give you more compression because of the location of the wrist pin. i dont know for sure, but the ea81, and ea82 pistons should be very close to the same. spfi pistons give you 9.5 to 1 right... so if you used them in a er27, you should have more than 9.5 to 1? isnt the er27 a little more compression than the ea82 spfi? if the er27 run the same pistons as the carb/mpfi ea82, why wouldnt the spfi pistons be the ones you want to use?
  14. propane torch, heat the metal around plug, keep plug cool, then turn it out. hopefully =]
  15. ya knock that outer cup off with a hammer, and clean the greas out of it... take out the bearings, and cage ifyou can, its kinda cool how it fits together =] you can remove one or both, i noticed no difference either way. try not to do too many brake stands with the e brake, as your tires will not last long
  16. i think its a very common pump to use for conversions, from carb to efi, on every kind of vehicle. i first found out about it when we were building a efi harley 103 inch stroker, in a chopper frame, at work... but i bet they used to be 40 cuz they never sold any, now they are popular the price will only go up =/ i've got about 10k+ miles on mine.
  17. all il realy know about that question for sure, is that the bolt patern on the in-side of the exhaust, and the out-side of the exahust are different between ej and ea series. just an excuse to build a xover pipe, and turbo back 3 inch =]
  18. um... this one is is 90 psi, 50 gph... works reel good. use brass fittings, its low pressure, on that side.
  19. but you gotta unbolt it all anyway, so goin 2x with a lift would be useless imo.
  20. ok, napa fuel pump. its about the size of an ignitoin coil, and you have to use a bracked off of a subaru coil to mount it. works great for me and morganm, we both have them relocated to inside the car, so they cant be torn off, or packed with mud, but they are loud inside the cab napa part # 2p74028 comes in a napa box, they will find one just like it for 95, but make them keep looking! they will eventually find one for around 40 bucks, i swear, you gotta find the guy that knows. =] for reference i found it by telling them it was off of a ford truck of some sort, that also has an inline pump. or get any efi subaru fuel pump out of the junkyard. hope that helps
  21. but alot of the time if you run a higher compression block, you plan on runing low amounts(stock) boost, and good fuel all the time, and enjoy a little bit of both worlds. 8.7 isnt bad for a turbo with stock boost, but if you want to boost it hard, get low comp. in my opinion/experience
  22. i guess your kinda building a kit car, like when they put a t bucket body on a camaro, or a lamborghini on a fiero, so maybe youd find a bunch of good info on a site like that. they might be able to help with what kind of body mounts to use, and pimp stuff like that
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