archemitis

the three inch lift, has less than 3 inches of extra length in that area. did you lengthen it 6 inches? never done, or seen the 6 inch lift, so im just guessing here. i dont have power steering on my 4 runner, and run 31s with no problem, even rock crawling, and high speed, back roads.

man, i know what willl complete this system nicely. a supertrapp!_! i have one on my subaru, and it sounds great, and is a spark arrestor system. they sell megafone style mufflers, canister style, and just the endcaps that have the little discs for tuning. and they are stainless steel too. you can usuallf find them for about 150. mines off of a motorcycle exh system. pm me if you need a deal, i work at tchd. harley dealer and yes, stuff like this is always harder than it seems. i built a turbo manifold for my harley once, and it was a whole lot of tac welding, and grinding, and re cutting, and fitting.....

leave the disty bolted down, if you can, and mark the timing belts somehow, to avoid being 180 degrees off on your timing when it goes back togethere. and change the belts when the heads are off, 20 bucks at napa. have fun =] look for big cracks.

nice!_! that collector looks alot better than the cat that i have in place of it. looks like that bend everybody is asking about will keep the exhaust tucked up tight for offroading. stainless is a very nice touch

im writing down those numbers and butting them in my wallet =] this should be sticky, and stay at the top forever.

um... only a dude in a cave would sell it for that. this reeks of bugusness.

sweet, thanks. so it it more of an on off switch than a variable resistance one?

3.5 wouldnt work, cept with a diesel sized turbo, and dumpin the clutch at 3500

a project like this deserves 3 turbos

the diaphram inside that vac thingy is torn, it should hold when you apply vac, and not leak down, for a good while, if at all. any carburetor ea82 distributor will bolt right in. you could look for a 2X disty, as they are supposed to have a slightly more steep advance curve.

i thought you used the black on the big rump roast ball bearing ones, like in the front, and used the other stuff, in the conical ones like on the rear of my 2x hatch... some more experienced grease guy should speek up =]

ya, i have a set of the motion wheels, i tookoff the hub caps, and put chrome acorns on, and stuck some chrome ea82 center caps off of wagon wheels on. those are about the coolest wheels subaru made, for us, i think. not tryin to knock your subaru, just wonderin, what you thought was rare about it. i remember the first time i saw a touring wagon, i thought it was a toyota or somehing for a split second =]

89 rare? i think you could have had any wheels. hubcaps, could have been stock. about the only wheels it proly didnt have is the H aluminums.

i wanna see this magical 2k$ shopping list. seriously, whats the whole plan? dont haltechs still run 1k nomatter how you cut it? that mitsubishi i was talkin about was run at Alamo auto sports, in arlington texas, with a sniffer, and it was runin 20 lbs

yar, if it does break, like shaft in half. you can drive on your low compression motor, all day long, and the turbo will just act like a huge restriction. you can disconnect the little c clip on the wastegate actuator, so the exh. can get out easier. if it just blows oil. your car can eat it but i think it can clog your cat after a while. boost guages are great.

early flapper style, mpfi, turbo or non turbo, same parts. later, hotwire maf, mpfi, same parts turbo or non turbo. i think the injectors and alot of the sensors are the same between the two different mafs, but the computer, isnt interchangable. so basicaly stick with the same style maf, and your sure to get the right parts, turbo or na. spfi... i think the water temp sensor is the same... thats about it.

ya, along with the front fenders. and some cutting, and welding.

theres more to it than that, something about using an ohms meter, and setting it at zero with the throttle plate closed... something like that; i think

no, see thats the point, everybody thinks they make more power than they do. dsms are supposed to get to 400 easy. but... they dont.

there is a difference between negativity and realistic everybody wants 400hp, but were all stuck with 100 or less =/

ya, this does sound kinda like one of your "what if" posts. you lookin to smoke some corvettes? if anybody ever made peak boost at almost idle with a subaru, you would prolly have a piston sticking out each fender.

hear say is crap... my cousins 91 mitsubishi eclipse just put down 225 hp to the ground. thats with a bigger turbo, fmic, maxed boost with stock computer, along with the counterbalancers removed, and a 2.0 inline, that is way more effiscient than ours, and you guys are talkin about coming close to that with a 1.8 subaru? sorry... motor swaps are the only way to get the power you guys are lookin for. ea81t has no aftrmarked support for a reason. EJ!_! if you havent driven a 2.2 then you have no idea, how slow your ea82t realy is. a stock crx will smoke a boosted subaru. our cars are slow!

could somebody with a fsm tell me how to set my tps, and if its nessecary?

a thrush will sound great, if you leave the cats in they are not too much louder than a worn out stock one. punch the cats, and its throaty, and more open sounding, but either way, they wont sound like the 3 foot strate pipes on my wagon =p. not a big fan of straight duals. peepl think an airplane is langind in front of thier house when i pull up.

ok, pluged in the different sensor, and it does the same thing again =/ drove it to work today, with the sensor unplugged, and it runs ok... full throttle is ok, but 3/4 just starts bucking. what the heck is goin on? how do i zero a tps?