archemitis

ya, should be loads better, i guess they came with something like 4:11s? is that right? enough to make them feel like rockets out of the hole.

score!_! after i replaced a 4 inch piece of carbureter hose, with high pressure efi hose :-\ i checked all kinds of hoses, and vac sealin areas. nothin started it up, unplugged water temp sensor, nothin, blipped the throttle, perfect idle. plugged back in, blipped throttle, crappy as hell. =] unplugged it and drove it around the block, and it runs like it used to. gonna wait till she cools down to install this junkyard one. thanks alot! i suspected it, but never thought it would make such a huge difference.

ya, its a high pressure one, and it maxes at 90, and if its not going bad, thats what i was runing. hrm... guess i'lll go swap out the temp sensor. check back in 20 minutes, and i'll tell you if your right =] just remembered... the car seems to idle fine, with the maf unplugged(when im not having problems i mean)

what i mean by that is if you have a turbo, you obviously want power, so the only thing extra that you would have to do is wire up the ej22, wich i hear is pretty easy. and then you got more power, and more reliability. too much trouble, just to keep the ea82t, and extra stuff you already have.

psssssshhhhhhhhhh

no, theres nothin different about hookin up the vac. the switches in the car, hold vac, so the stuff even works when the car has sat for months. and your brake booster, is fine gettin boosted=]. you dont use brakes when your uner boost, so thats all the same. and you never shift into 4x when under boost. its got vac just like a regular car, cept when your boostin.

mpfi ea82, wired by me, ran for several thousand miles. not it will idle crappy, and when i step on the gas, it pops, and craps out, for a while, then takes off almost like normal. i was thinkin tps, so i swapped it with a junkyard one, and it didnt help. next i pinched off the fuel return line, after the fpr, and it ran fine, reved her up, and worked great still. so i replace my fpr with a junkyard one, and it does the same thing. so i vice gripped my return line, and drove it around the block, worked great, cept i found out where my weak links are in my fuel supply line =] im wonderin, if this sounds like two bad fuel pressure regulators, in a row, or a wearing out napa fuel pump? it had enough pressure to leak at the hose clamps under the car. any thoughts please

thats the useless diagram =], my chiltons has that one. find the ones with the colors, and all that, for all the different years, and stick it up on the web somewhere. witout factory service manuals, i had to email around for weeks getting one that was close to the one i needed.

yar, you got air. glazed would still work good, and not feel squishy. rear discs?

i agree with the advance timing comment. to advance timing, turn the front of the disty cap, towards the passener side. clockwise. just about half of the hold down bolts width. makes a huge difference, enless its already been done =].

i think you should run it, because alot of times its an insulator block to keep the carb a little cooler than the manifold. i have ran them wiouth it also, with no ill effects. i would try the junkyard, or make one out of plastic, or very thick pressed cardboard.

i think all you need is a light coat of black spraypaint tape off what you dont want painted, then just dust it at first, see how you like it, if it scratches, you can just touch it up. i had a friend who blacked out his 300z this way, and it looks very nice from the outside. and if you mess up, clean it off with gas, and start over =]

i loot the hell out of junkyards!_! you dont buy it unless its awesome, then still, you gotta haggle =]. just look around and find the good ones around you. im in minneapolis, and there are two(good ones), one 30 miles away, and another, about 70 miles away. so they are far and few between, theres gotta be one around you loaded with stuff, and the guys think subarus are crap anyway. just say 4 cylinder, and 80s alot... make em think its crap =]

well... i have two subarus, both, sat for about 4 years just before i got them. i topped the fluid off, and have used the heck out of them ever since, so... i think you just had bad luck twice in a row.

thats what i've been waitin for, a giant wagon!_! nice:grin:

you can pay 20 bucks for a glasspack or cherry bomb, anywhere. bet a 1 7/8 or 2 inch inlet and exit. they sound great, and work awesome!

just on a side note, i sat in a wagon behind a z71 for 60 miles one time on the highway, with a chain, at about 45mph. once you get abouve 40 you dont have to use the brakes to keep the slack up, and its just like being powered by your motor.

and i love all these, fix the rust you have comments. its a subaru, unibody, have you ever seen one that has been "repaired" 3 years later? once its in its there to stay. let it go and use the car to its fullest, thats what subarus are about!=]

preepl dont seem to like my comments, especially on stuff like this, but... why not!_!? morganms car is rusty and has a lift, so now he reely doesnt have to worry about messing anything up. "oh crap a dent, oh well" his car is reely bad, rear seatbelts fell out, but where the crossmemebers bolt(what you have to remove to install lift) its still pretty solid metal. the fenders and floorboards will fall off long before its structurally unsound. rage it! then there will be two lifted subarus in minnesota.

i like how the front looks reeeeely good for an ifs vehicle, better than my 4runner could ever do. nice as hell!

easy out didnt work for me, i ened up making a jig, out of steel, and drilled it out. one almost sure fire way to avoid this, is... heat the bolts way up, then let them cool , before you ever start to loosen them. i havent broken even one that way. but several with just wd-40

*unnecessary data removed* the motor that was in my hatch for a few thousand miles, was out of an 89 4x wagon. before i bought the wagon, the previous owner towed a hatch 400 miles, through wisconsin, and the midwest, not the flattest terrain, but not too many hills. and that motor had 200k on it. subarus are tough, i have punished several, and have been pleasantly surprised, how well they stand up to it.

ya... i know this guy that made a custom bumper, welded it up, held as much air as one of those five gallon air containers. so you know the welds were good. he went on a jeep jamboree, and they made him drill holes through his masterpiece, to stick in wimpy little bolts. i dont get it. but i do i guess. i have seen some very ghetto welds, that peepl put way too much faith in. the front is a no brainer, but the rears... they all tear out.

its easier for me to use needle nosed pliers, than look around for the special tool i bought =]

let me just say, that i have seen morganms rig burried up to the timing belts in muddy slop, and i didnt hear any slippin when he was floorin it =] i also run only one be,t with the single bolt holdin down the alt bracket, and it works great, for 25k miles now