archemitis

man, thats one mean little beast, it would smoke the crap out of a heavy rump roast ea82t =] im all about ea81s, i just dont think the ea82s are as crappy as some say.

i want to argue with anybody that THINKS their efforts has made an extra 25 hp. without numbers you are just thinking you did a good job, na hp is hard to get, even with cams, and alot of head work. but this is slightly off the topic, who is it that made those plates? they were made to order, took a few weeks to get. i have looked and looked.

because theres alot of info there, we should have a link to the archives at the top of this page, so we could maybe avoid the duplicate posts that we all see so often.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11614&highlight=ej22+adaptor+plate this is another guy, tryin to do it on the cheep. never seen a 100 hp ea81 either, but i have seen high hp ea82s

i cant remember, how i found him. it was through the board tho. try a search, i'll see if i saved an email, or something. timing belts rool!_!

um... ea82s kick rump roast in my opinion. changing a belt every 60k miles is no problem, and if your cooling system is not neglected theres no head gasket problmes either.. but ej to ea tranny, peepl have made adaptors, and theres a guy that will build you one, with a modified flywheel. i think the kit was around 350 bucks? i dont remember, i decided against it tho, because it would be so easy to break stuff, especially with low range. im very happy offroading in low gear, with an ea82 motor, in my hatch.

oh theres pleanty. i have your motor, and wiring in my 86 hatch, does that count? have fun, and try not to get any tickets.

you can take a hammer, and an anvil, and smash those air suction valves shut. or just plug the rubber hoses. or weld em shut.

if you like subarus, and your in minnesota, you gotta stop by my house sometime. im in uptown minneapolis. my ea82 carb did that for a year, before the timtnig belt broke, i kinda thought it had something to do with alot of slop on the belt. but the air suction valves sound suspect too. i got a welder!_!

as far as i know, only the alloys need the special nuts. with the steels you can use the open nuts, or acorns, from your subaru. the alloy nuts have a little rotating cup on the bottom, and are closed acorns, that fit on the subaru lugs.

you could always stickem both ontop of the tranny stickin out of the hood, aussie style!

subafreak, you should checkout "unhatched" if you havent seen it before. i want to do the same thing to my hatch, i was thinkin id make an entire rollbar, with tubes that go back to the rear just below the hatch, and then tie it into the rear strut towers, for support.

see, the thing is, there have been several posts like this. try a search. nobody got past the sitting two turbos side by side stages.

all you need is power ground, and the signal wire ran off the negative side of your coil. should work just ilke a stock one.

it wont work. the computer wouldnt know what to do with the different signals. i dont think the flapper maf, is the issue. do you guys have diferent exhausts? how bout timing? mileage?

one turbo stuffed under the hood of a subaru is enough of a headache, just build a good single turbo setup with a good intercooler. its enough of a challenge. everybody talks about it but bottom line is, a single t3 or wrx turbo would be easier,and look cooler. thats all i got to say, everybody freak out now.

get a bedliner, or a diamondplate piece to put in there. youd have to cut about twice what you oultined, if its like any rust i have seen. get to grinding, and you;ll see alot more effected metal than you think.

sorry, not a big fan of fords... thats why im postin on this here subaru board. i got this motorcycle that goes reely fast too, but, you see where im goin. fords are good when you need to tow a subaru =] i have never done a 0-60 on my hatch, but im goin 60 by about 10 carlinks out of a short highway entrance ramp. but its alot nicer than my 85 carbed ea82 wagon =p

ya 205 65 r15 is what im runin around town with. fit right on the rear. front needed the usual seam pounded down, and the front fenders needed about an inch. but... my hatch must have had newer suspension put on in its 200k mile life, because its sitin pretty high.after some pretty good offroadin, i didnt have any shreaded tires, eithe. its surely worth a try, and will look mean!_!

probably the cheapest aluminum blocked engine he could find. must not care about blowing head gaskets, and timing belts. looks mean as hell tho. looks like the tube frame is part of his cooling system.

peepl and their quick fix ideas. oil goes in there.

fords are geh subarus are slow, id rather drive the slow one!:cool:

wd 40 and a rag, took te 80s decals off of my 4runner. i tried everything, but it all worked very pooryl

the special tool, is special for removing, valve guides, not special to subarus. its like a big punch, with a step near the bottom. they usually break, unless you heat the heads up, and keep the guides cold. i usally let my head rebuilder take them out for me, if im going to flow them afterwards. napa prolly sells one for 20-35 bucks. special tool, plus heat, plus bigass hammer edit: also, you can beadblast any carbon away from the base if the guide, so it doesnt, score the guide hole, for the new guides.

i bet its the guage, or the sender not workin correclty. see if the car has hot air, from the heater