archemitis

oh the plot thickens... so the first call was from a female. i go to arrange pickuptime, and a guy answers the phone... "ya shes here, but i can help you if your calling about the car" he says. i asked his address so i could come get it. then he starts talking about how good a car it is. how the only thing wrong with it is the bad cv. he doesnt even mention the bad tranny, says he wants 5or6 hundred for it, "it goes like a bat outta hell"guess he thought that was a selling point . i said yesterday she said free, and i rarely pay over 100 dollars for a subaru. long retarded conversation short, i told him to call me when the city is about to tow it, and he will take 50 bucks for it... hehehe, i think the lady will call me back, who would buy a subaru with a broken tranny

mcbrat ran a tranny that i pulled out of a car with 255k miles on it, he put it in his offroad vehicle, and im sure beat the crap out of it... i think a subaru manual tranny with normal use will run to 300k no problem. the only problem i've had with a standard tranny is... i've burnt out the cv axle bearing, where the splined shaft goes through, but that was from abuse, and broken motor mounts. yes, im talking ea82 stuff, not ej, but the trannies are about the same internals. go manual for longevity, and better mileage

i guess i have a reputation for owning subarus, because yestterday a lady calls me at work, and says some guy told her i collected subarus... i laughed and said, why what you got? its a 92 awd legacy turbo wagon auto transmission. heres my question. she said the cv axle was clicking for a long time, then all of the sudden it stopped. so i figure it broke off, and is spinning in side the boot, still held inplace. she said it goes down the road just like normal with it broken. on transmissions with a viscious center diff this will mess everything up right? is this auto tranny an open center diff, or viscous, or is it something totaly different because its an auto? thanks oh ya, only has reverse when its cold, or hot forget which one, but its free:banana:

figure it out yet? i have heard of those optical distributors going out, then your coumputer doesnt know when to send the signal to the coil. you are a spfi wagon right? morganm had his coil ziptied to a bolt hole for a month, didnt seem like grounding was a huge issue there.

if you are getting it as a second vehicle and a kindof a toy, you should only go with 4x4. you wont be happy with awd offroad. better yet, get one that shifts from hi range to low range. most truck guys are impressed when they hear i have dual range in the ford festiva lookin thing. headgaskets are pretty east to change out compared to most vehicles. the only problem is, if the engine sat with coolant/oil sludge in the lower end for any length of time. main bearings can get rusty after a while.

i have 145hp (stock numbers from subaru) plus a few performance enhancers, in an 80something hatch. i run 28 inch tires i have a 4 inch lift that lowers the transmission as much as the rest of the lift, unlike alot of lifts that run only two inches lower. i also made shorter/solid motor mounts, and solid mounted the transmission. this means i have stock cv axle angles, and my engine and tranny dont twist uncontrollably. when all this twisting happens(like with stock rubber mounts), coupled with the increased cv axle angles... you break stuff alot. untill i got my cv axles straight as stock, i was eating through them pretty quick. now i have 10k on a set and have had no breakage. the strength is there, i can do circle burnouts on dry pavement, and havent grenaded anything yet. angles are killer, just ask people runing early aa lifts. now on the ea81 powering big tires... i would kill myself if my stockish hatchback with only 26 inch tires on it, had anything bigger. i say swap in an ea82 mpfi or spfi. more power right from the factory(ask subaru) and it bolts in like stock.

you cant weld in the studs and expect them to be straight afterwards. when the weld cools, it pulls the stud towards the cooling pool of metal. drill the correct size hole, 19mm, and forget about welding them in... then only hard part is the rear drums, getting a grinder in there is hard. do the rear disc swap while your at it and its easy. pugs are for suckers, they dont stick out nearly enough.

ok, if its an s10, 38s wont fit. if they did, you would break everything. subarus offroad way better than an s10. just lift the subaru... anybody that has to work on a subaru very much, is just a poor mechanic. they are the easiest thing tp work on. gms are for chumps

take a 4 lb hammer to the backing plates, and they come right off. i have never even had to bleed the brakes after doing the rear disc conversion. its easier than changing the damn shoes on the drum brakes.

yes, i agree anythings possible. but if it turns out to be one of those jdm motors, get it out of there as soon as possible. its a grenade waiting to go off. those bastards dont change the oil! its crazyness!_!

you guys are way off. its 21mm basicaly, you lube the hell out of the nuts/studs, lift the car, crank in the lift. two bolts on each front strut. i would recommend only cranking about half the lift in, for street driving. i crank mine all the way up when im offroading. if you are cranking on the nuts, and it gets very hard to turn, stop, back off, add more lube and try it again. if you break the threaded stud(like i have done twice) you are sol without a welder to fix it. its a great system. nothing different than the non adjustable except for the threaded studs, and nuts. the suspension most people complain about is the air ride that came on some ea82 cars, those are the ones that are cheaper to replace with non adjustable ones.

i dont know too much about megasquirt or whatever, but i do know that people have been using haltech stand alone computer systems on everything else in the world for a long time now. anybody run a haltech on a subaru? im puting together a system for my 4runner, and all i would need is an extra harness to switch it over to my er27 motor.

i bet the tick of death, was actualy a rod nock. motors dont tend to sieze up unless they are runinng on half a quart, from the cars i've seen blown up by people. one girlfriend of mine ran it out of oil, siezed the rings is what i thought. we squirted penetrating lube in the spark plugs then pulled it around, it actualy worked, and ran that way till she blew a head gasket. either way broken rod, or siezed piston, id want another motor. sucks to hear, wish my brown hatch was up and runing for some ice races, or the snow rodeo.

i live in minneapolis, and there is a large artistic population here, so theres alot of subarus, and alot of art cars. theres one that has scales like a lizard. one covered in cds, another that is astroturphed, with a golf hole on top. all kinds of crazyness.

the er27 fits in a hatchback(ea81)body just fine. you just have to take out the two inner headlights, the radiator is the big problem. the ea82 bodies are longer than the ea81s by a few inches in the engine compartment... i think there might be a good chance of runing an er27 in an ea82 body, like a wagon or sedan. you would need a fan in front of the radiator though. either way you need to add wiring, and thats the easy part. subaru mpfi is the simplest efi i have ever seen. it seriously only takes about 4 wires to wire an ea82mpfi, or er27mpfi. the spfi is a little different. the er27 weighs alot, but sounds so damn cool, and has off idle power

every time i have seen gauges go nutty, it was the alternator. namely the regulator inside the alt. what does your battery gauge do? if it sits at 18, thats most likely it.

the xt6 is the shizzle. its my favorite motor, nice and reliable. not as many timing belt problems as the ea82s. its horsepower makes up for low range. its great on and offroad, especialy with the center locking diff, which makes it 4x4 when the button is pushed.

i just got a reman at "bumper to bumper" for 63 bucks. appears to be a new outer stub. doesnt click yet.

has anyone every dynod an ea81? im heading for texas and for the heck of it, were gonna throw the ea81 on the dyno. stock cept a cut out air filter housing, and an accell coil. wonder what i should expect at the front wheels. 50? the guys at the shop are gonna laugh their asses off

i got a dual range 5 speed, spare mpfi ea82, xt6 axles, and nuckles and stuff to make that happen. haha that would be an easy way to get dr in a legacy/imp, with only about 25 hp loss.

212 degrees is where water boils right? but our coolant systems are pressurized so that brings the boilng point up alot. id want to see it within 10 degrees of your thermostat, depending on where your sensor is

i've had a hill holder cause problems. if you take the cable off and let it dangle it will fix it.

i wouldnt pull the valves out just to do seals. if you were going to have a valve job done, then its nessecary, but if all your are doing is fixing a head gasket leake, leave them alone. a couple hours less work too.

could this be a stock subaru weber? not the upgrade weber that everyone is assuming it is?

no matter how crappy it is tuned, or set up, it should still start. is your choke working? is it electric, water, or manual? is it flooding?