archemitis

intake manifolds can leak and do the same stuff. maybe you'll get lucky. it could all go down one side.

i run a k&n filter with a bypass valve, and an antidrainback baffle. the bypass is used when the engine hits high rpm, otherwize the filter could starve your motor for oil, because of the restriction the filter makes. mobile 1 all the way! or castrol gtx if it leaks =] mobile o is good and cheap too no sustained high speeds with the stock oil huh? i'll have to look into that. with a 4 speed and an ea82, its always sustained high speeds. if your engine is starved for oil, your lifters will be the first to start screaming at you. thats the foolproof guage.

is there anything i can do to bump the compression a half a point on a 2.2 sohc? thinner copper head gaskets, or decking, without messing up vavle timing, or manifold fitment?

what kinda racing you doin with that? nice looking car

ya its just a low hp car. that glass pack will help, you can make a cold air intake with a mpfi snorkel, it clamps onto the top of the carb, then put a big rump roast cone filter on the end.

just for the record, hitachis kick rump roast! 100k is a great run for a carb, and most make it well past that, with little to no service.

to my knowledge, a comp test on a cold engine is useless. they always scare you when you do it, cept when its hot, then you know for sure. the hydros would collapse if they were bad, so, that shouldnt have anything to do with your problem.

i have filters on the valve covers now, and the case vent is plugged. could i just put the crank vent right into the pcv on the manifold?

might i suggest a thrush glass pack instead? i have run both, and the cherry bombs are cool, but the glass packs sound cooler, and they have louvers to keep air from sucking back in, when you decel. and if you cut one of the inlets off the glass pack, and put it right at the back of the car, you dont need a tip, and it looks reely cool. if you go shifting twice between first and second, this will suck for drag racing. good for snow though. runin in 4x the whole way would prolly be faster.

have you noticed it shooting black or blue smoke out the back when this happens? morganm s subaru does this and we fugired it was the pvc system. do you have the breather hookup where one side of the t is small and the other side is large? if so this is the earlier setup, and if you switch to the newer style for the spfis, it has a t that is for big hoses all the way around. suckin in alot of oil will make your motor bog.

i added one, but the only time it is used is when the engine is hot. it sucks it back in when its cool. so it does nothing, when the engine is runing. the ea81 rad has to have an air cushion in the top, thats why it always spits it out, when you fill it to the top. ditch that thing. i have resently fallen in love with my 180 degree thermostats, if it is maintained at a cooler temp, when you get in traffic, it will take longer to get higher on the guage.

note, he said he was runnin pugs. biger tires make you slower. the 13s should help. are you guys talkin about runing in 4x all the way down the track, or shiftin to 2x when you go to second?

these coils have been working for years, in all kinds of stuff. just buy another one, stuff breaks. dont go dissin our only upgrade option =] mine works great, but how hard is it to stick a stock one in the back?

what would it hurt? a recirc valve gets stuffed up as it hits the confined intake plumbing. shooting it out into atmosphere keeps the turbo spinning faster. and if its all riced out, wouldnt it have about 300hp just with a boost controller, and exh?

bovs bad for performance? um... thats crazy talk, the bigger and louder the better. just cuz its got guages and a performance exhaust dont mean its riced, it means its raced! bovs only help!

in dont think its doable, just think how far back into the firewall you would have to sink that thing in, just to get the center of the motor even with the front wheels. iron stuff is heavy =] but you would smoke everything

so now i got a custom rig, how do i know when its safe to drive to texas? what do you guys do with stuff you have modified all to beat h3ll? drive it 20 miles from home? or go roadtrippin? i would hate to have my car stranded hundreds of miles away, with some efi problem, or a head gasket i cant change, because theres no room between the frame rails. how many test miles is acceptable? 500, 1000, 5000?

so you want a car that can do burnouts reel good? and weigh so much up front that you cant turn, at any speed without skidding? i dont like it, think 2.2! or go buy a mustang

just tore an inner doj boot. hopefully its just old. the camber isnt even noticeable, but on my 88 ea82 wagon with the front cranked, the camber is horrible.

nice! when i get to texas later this month, i hope to hit the 1/4 mile, and turn a high 16 =]

spfi rules! and will give you more hp due to the precice delivery of the fuel, compared to a worn out hitachi. you wont run rich anymore, which robs hp, as rich as a old carb runs anyway. ecu, motor harness, manifold, with all the sensors, and a efi fuel pump stuck in the stock location, should be all you need. get crackin!

usually a bad coil only acts up at higher rpm or under load, like under boost

ya, your gonna need all the power you can get with subs and a fridge, as well as a pile of spare alternators.

subaru had bigger valves, on the later ones. but they also had hydro lifters, i would love a solid lifter brat motor, with the bigger valve heads. i think thats the best combo. im tired of clicky lifters, and they are so easy to adjust. i dont think you can really turst any of the numbers you see. suposedly the brat had a more torqy low end cam, as the 2x of the same years had a more top end hp cam.

that is basically an on off for the computer. i put mine on a switch, so i flip the computer on and off. and the main power stays powered all the time so it stores codes. give the correct wire 12 volts from the stock ginition relay, and it will work right off the key!