archemitis

ok, i just looked under the hood of my hatch, that has the same efi as you have. the colors are never right, with these diagrams. i saw 3 different colors for the ig pulse signal. the ig pulse that goes to the negative of the coil, is shielded, with black plastic, with a white stripe, and wrapped in braided stell cable, then the wire under that is yellow(on mine). thats how the injectors know how to open. the disty wires go to the same place they did stock. and i used the stock power and ground off of the ea81, to the coil. then i wired in the fuel pump relay, very important to do this one stock. and dont put a high pressure pump under the hood, because it sucks the stock carb pump dry, and you run out of fuel. give power to the main red wire(fat one) and a few others. the starter signal wire is imprtant too. just stick that to the stock wire going to the starter solenoid. you can plug your ea81 sensor wires into the oil sender, and the temp sender for the guage, and they work. same with the tach. lotsa fun, dont know how i ever figured it out, considering you cant believe any of the colors you see, and the connectors on my diagram were all bogus too. i just used the motor part of the harness, going from the manifold, to the computer, and figured out the rest on my own. let me just say, its worth it! even without a turbo(yet)

quit slackin and get to work!

quit worrying and just put them on! they will work a hundred times better(speaking from experience). just do it!

i found the same sort of thing on my motor(junkyard, so i never saw it in its factory state). there was a metal line, coming off the tb, going over to the egr, or some solenoid, with a t that i got vac from. makes a huge difference. that backwards hookup stuff, is backwards.

after some more screwin around, ya it looks like the one underneath is a retard, mabye it hooked to a knock sensor?

ok, after reving, staring at a vac guage, and sucking on alot of bad tasting hoses. i figured out a vac source, before the throttle plate. but i got two hoses coming off my disty... and they both advance....

just make sure its not for a twin cam! totally different style filter media. long evolution filter is all the parts guy should need to know

heres a good one. a harley filter, from 90-99 dyna glide models fits right on. you can get it in chrome, and its twice the size(longer) than the subaru ones.

this goes out to anybody with the mpfi pre 87 system. i think even the ea81t should be the same, as far as this question goes. where should i get the vac from? i cant find a port on the throttlebody, and right now i have it plugged in after the tb, so i think im gettin retarded when i hit the throttle. i have more power at 3/4 than at full throttle. mcbrat? anybody?

compared to 13s these things are superswampers =]

any estimates on how far my speedo is off? i can still go 85, but that must mean im goin about 95? i'll have to borrow a gps

they fit, with a little trimmin and hammering. the rears go on no problem, but the fronts were the tight ones. i cranked in most of the front lift, and they ride reel nice. wend down several allies, and everything seems cool. i dont think i would be able to pop wheelies like the guys out west, unless i had a real lift. thanks mcbrat!

that undercoat will smoke a bit and catch on fire. the carpet is the real thing to worry about.

i believe the ratio is 11degrees F is equal to 1 hp. 1:1 would rule! cut it and cap it.

welding a subaru without a fire? that never came to mind.... i would just bur right through it, and hold your breath. make it look good, with spray on undercoating, to make the law happy. use as small as you want, as its only cosmetic, as far as imconcerend. 22 should be great.

seems very um... not good. turbos rule!

and fuji heavy was involved in making the zero, or some ww2 japanese fighter plane.

i think theres pics in there somewhere. if i had more patients i would have bolted them all the way, but the welder is so much easier =] http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12335&highlight=xt6+seats+hatch

get a turbo from a lecacy, with an open intake, and better exh, and more boost, and you too will be turbo crazy! legacy and t-bird turbos will fit as an upgrade. ford probe, isuzus, and mazdas will fit as a near same size replacement

ya, the 85-56 disty for mpfi, will power a carb ig system, and vise versa, so they must be the same as the ea81t. dont think the ea82t intake manifold, will bolt onto the ea81t, right?

i think it would work fine, i was lookiing at turboea81 pics, and it looks like all the sensors are the same, and most even have the same plugs, and the distributors are the same, relatively. i say go for it, the most you would have to do is swap the big rump roast harness plugs.

anybody know anything about efi at all? guess its over to the aussie board

you might have to drop the exhuast if you cant get at it with a socket. i have always used a big open end wrench, with the y pipe sitting on the ground.

ya, starting with a rust bucket sucks. morgans needed some welding just to get the lift in, and when theres rust instead of steel, theres no place for weld to stick =].

ya, i was runing without an o2, for lack of a hole in the exhaust, for about 2 months, and it ran fine. morganm, has no 02 sensor for about 20k now, with no ill effects, other than poor cruising economy. the problem started after i put on an o2 sensor, and new exhuast, and i cleaned the flapper maf. and the computer supposedly doesnt even look at the o2 sensor at wot, and it still craps out floored, or idling. my car runs so bad now that i cant move it from its parking spot, but it goes great till it starts getting warm. i have no fsm, would that tell me how to test the sensor with an ohm meter? im guessing it gets something like 4 or 5 volts, to it, then is sends back to the computer, however hot it is. i have tried unplugging it, but i havent tried jumping the terminals with a wire.