archemitis

85 mpfi, runs great till it starts to get warm, about 2 minutes, then starts missing, and backfires through the intake. im about to shell out 30 bucks to test the think. im not finding any usefull codes, does this sensor sound like the culprit? has anyone changed one and had thier car run better because or it?

um... cuz its bigger, and flows better

i know there is also a wire on both na, and turbo cars, that can be grounded, or turned on. on the wiring diagram it looks like a switch, but thats the only other thing i can think of that will be different.

all you would realy be changing is the shortblock, or the longblock. everything will bolt on, just like it was forgotten at the factory. you dont need the computer, or any wiring. just drop the motor in there with the turbo stuff on it, and go. if you dont have an knock sensor, thats about the only thing to swap in there as far a wiring goes.

ya, my cherry bomb is pretty quite too, compared to a thrush glasspack of the same size. big improvement over stock crap, or the undersized saab muff, that was swapped onto my car before i got it.

spfi subarus are all i find in the junkyard anymore, and that will bolt right on to the ea81. the spfi is a great system, that gets awesome gas mileage, and on an ea81 youd break 30 mpg easily. and more hp too.

i've never seen recovery gear, short of a winch that helps on a long stretch of mud. mud just sucks.

finally put rear disc brakes on the rear of my 2x hatch. everything went on so easy. the only thing i needed was two hardlines, atat didnt come with the kit. they were 2.5 inches shorter than the hard lines that the drums used, just like everybody told me. if my lines werent rusty i woiuld have bent them, but went to the parts store, and could only find the same lenght i had, so i bent an s in those, and they worked great. didnt even have to bleed them, as i was flushing the lines anyway. brake pedal has less freeplay, and when you tap on the brakes, its like mashing on the old drums. im serious, its that much of a difference, and the drums i pulled off worked fine, with new pads. the front end also doesnt dip as far down, compared to the rear, the whole car squats when braking, its great. i recommend this to everyone!

i dont think this is reely debatable, as the peeple who know whats up run them from the factory position. and the peepl who run them on the manifold, just dont get it. retarding advance at higher rpms, is NEVER a hotrod trick. more advance=more hp, up to that certain point. these motors dont have enough compression to have any problems with pinging at 33degrees. get a vac guage on your car once, and watch it nearly hit 0 when you floor it. then suck on that vac hose, and watch the disty move. thats the only way to tie it together in my head. i vote for ported, not manifold

this might sound bad, but... i've noticed this on lots of cars. i thought my car was toast, after i inspected the oil reely close, then i started checking friends cars, and found out that most cars have sparkles in the oil, if you look hard enough. seriously. come on guys, start calling me a dumb*****

if the cresent doesnt slip, and i stand on it, and i am applying pressure 1 foot out, i weigh 145 lbs. see where im goin with this? i didnt fix it yet, but my bearings are shot, and thats gotta be the reason, its getting looser and looser. the center spacer and bearings are getting smaller and smaller.

took it apart, and the bearings were eating themselves, lotsa metal shavings. crescent wrenches work fine, on nuts that big. $22 fix

checked the belts last nite, they looked right on. i'll have to see if spfi temp sensors are the same as mpfi tonite.

well thats the thing, the cotter pin in in, and i tightened it about a month ago, when i did the cv. today will be the third time i have put a big cresent wrench on there, and stood on it, to get it tight. last time i tried a different conical washer, and flat washer, and it started again. its not like the nut is loosening, the metal behind the nut is shrinking, or the axle is continually getting pulled closer to the nut.

im guessing if my castle nut was loose yesterday, and i tightened it, and today again, its a bit loose, it must be my bearings are shot, and grinding themselves to powder, right?

looks like i can just put a loop in the hard line, from the drum. i'll give it a try tonite

damn, im out then too... cant swing it without morganm.

well, ea82 and 82t are the same thing, so... deffinately the canister and the egr. other than that, the system is pretty stripped, compared to the carb models.

the brown car in my sig. early mpfi, ea82. used to work good, started runing lean, now it will run fine, till the engine starts to heat up. which is about 1.5 minutes. swapped the afm, does the same thing. kinda idles, and when i throttle it, it sputters, and shoots small backfires out the intake, small enough to not be loud, but strong enough to slam the afm flapper shut, for a split second. im talkin bad enough, that i cant even move it from its parking spot. codes arent helping.efi temp sensor maybe? culd i have slipped a tooth on my tight timing belts? doh! i have 4 subarus, and the only one that runs is the one i havent touched. =[

no, i dont have the hard lines. im going to be doing this tomorrow nite, about 12 hours before i leave for the midwest meet. hope its as easy as it sounds. about 8 inches long huh? the drums must have longer soft lines than the discs? i have all the soft lines, and the bearings are newly greases, with no rust, its a great setup i got from carfreak85? i think is his name.

thats great for v8 s that weigh 4-1000 lbs, but you can just set a sube motor on a bench or a wicker basket for that matter.

ya, at idle a newly rebuilt high comp spfi reads about 21 lbs of vac, at idle, and at full throttle it goes down to about 2, and on decel it can hit as high as 25. 30 is supposedly more vac than space, and will never happen. mine was autometer, with lbs increments.

86 hatchback 2x. i got the rear discs, and everything, with the hoses. will the hoses plug right in? or am i going to need custom lines? couldnt find anything this specific with a search. thanks

the mpfi car i wired myself, will run with the maf unplugged, good enough to go around the block(tried it on accident once)

no, but they sell the same one, for the same ford truck/car for 80 and 130. for some reason. they are the same gph and pressure, and fitment, and all are new not reman. thought it was kinda wierd. i just told them ford truck efi, that has two pumps, one in the tank and one closer to the front. go ford!