archemitis

i was thinking about this, if you had the belt way off, you might get one to work, and the other one might have the valves wide open at the wrong side. usually you dont get a 0lbs reading unless you have a big hole in your piston, or a valve is stuck.

no, sorry, your screwed=]. either a valve is stuck open, or burnt, or your rings are shot. how many lbs in the other holes?

i am confident some one that has actualy done the swap, and is still coming here will read this sometime. *bump*

but skip, arent you the guy that was runing around with no thermostat, to keep the pressure in the coolant system down? you said alot about how this is an inherant problems with our engines, so a few degrees here or there is a big deal. are ea81s and ea82 thermoswitches not different?

ya, so 195, thats how many degrees away from boiling at 1 bar skip? pretty close, i know the pressure keeps if from boiling, but thats too close for me. if the guage goes past half thats too much. ea81s come on quicker because the fan is the primary cooling device. thats how my cars work, dont have a fancy book to tell me stuff i can observe.

yah, mike, thats what i did with the ea82 cars, but i just couldnt see it working out in my ea81. and the weight... i dont have height adjustment, so i took all that metal out, and the xt6 rails are alot of the weight. i'll get some digis today.

i was just thinking about the prelude seats i put in my old brat, and there was less room than with the little stock seats.

i finally got them in today. i put the passenger one in a few days ago, but the driver was a real pain. i ended up taking the rails, with the slider lock off of the ea81 seats and screwed them to the xt6 seats. i basically screwed the ea81 seat rails to the xt6 seats, where they lined up, and welded them where the holes didnt line up. then i bolted the seats with rails secured to the holes in the body, closest to the shifter. after i did this, the other side was about 1.5 inches off, towards the doors, so i just welded that side to the body. they just barely fit, in fact, i had to cut the plastic trim, near the door seal, because it wouldnt go back on, and on the passenger side, the hatch lever, gets pulled off, when i slide forward. you could do this without a welder, a drill and tap would make it fit also, but im not that patient, and i own a welder. i thought these things would bolt right into a ea81 with less trouble, like the ea82s they just fit right in. the ea81 is a pain in the rump roast. but... now i have 6 inches more foot room than i can use, if i put them all the way back, and i am sitting 2-3 inches lower than the stock ea81 hatch seats. i dont think they would fit well in a brat, unless you drive like my dad, with the seat at a 90degree angle. now my head wont hit the roof offroading, and my knees wont be bent too much on long road trips. only thing that sucks, is i had to do away with the height adjustment, because it just wouldnt fit between the tranny hump, and hatch lever/brake lines. so i slammed it =] works great with a 3inch shorter shifter. worth the headaches though, i am now one with my hatch. if anybody shows interest, i can post somepics tomorrow.

i tried my damdest to get mpfi to work in my hatch, without using tens of thousands of miles of useless wires, and guage stuff i would never use. this porche dude, i have read this thing a hundred times, but i must have missed this inportant part. http://www.etischer.com/914xt.html "It took a bit of trouble shooting to get the engine to start. If I remember the efi computer got its signal from the distributer. When I hooked up only the coil to the distributer I got spark. When both the computer and coil were connected, I got injector signals, but no spark. I put a 100 ohm resistor in series with the wire to the computer, and that solved my problem ( I got both spark and fuel injection and motor started). I guess the computer put too much of a load on the distributer wire, or the computer put out a voltage to the coil that masked the distributer signal. Perhaps Im missing a diode somewhere" this is exactly what was happening to me. but now, do i dare take out a motor that runs, with a carb, to swap in mpfi with a legacy turbo and big fat fmic? does this sound right to you guys? should i put all my faith in a 100 ohm resistor? please say yes. i want a fast hatch.

well, i always end up making sure the #1 cylinder is up, with a pencel, or whatever, then i stick the disty in, where its almost pointing at the #1 plug wire. thats not the best way, but if you are off, you just gotta spin the motor over till #1 is at top again. trial and error is the slacker way =] but if your valve covers are off, theres gotta be a better way. by looking at the rockers

ive been driving on a rod knock for 400miles now. 2050 quieted it down a bit. snorkel time?

have you found any wiring diagrams made for you swap? i have found info all over the web about your swap, but never got a good description on how to make the efi work without the whole dash and guages. that would be my main concern, getting it running(but maybe im the only one that had problems).

but if you use the stock thermo switch on an ea82... you will be cooking your motor because it doesnt turn on untill your too close to the red.

well, i better say it before somebody screams it at you(just kidding) if you try a search, you will find more than enough info on these kind of mods. i guess 14 is about as high as you want to go. it also depends on the year system you have. if its a flapper maf sensor, or a hotwire. hotwire is the later one, with the fuel cut. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=42013&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending theres a realy good thread about real dyno numbers, wich are usually disapointing, because you always think you have more power than you do. 150 to the rubber should be a good goal till you go all out with a haltech and a big fat turbo.

the ea81s came with no mechanical fan, and one electric fan. the ea81s come on earlier than the ea82 fans, because its just auxilary on the ea82s. my ea82s with the stock fan, and swithc got way too close to the red before kickin on. i like to have mine on a switch, so i can turn it on in traffic, or slow driving.

boost it, intercooler it. two reel good mods, that go hand in hand.

i agree. you can melt your battery like that. change the alternator, or voltage regulator.

yah, damn snow. makes offroading a little more chalenging/dangerous. im hoping to drive a nice hatch. i will be bumed if i have to drive a legacy or a 2wd

just re read the title. it says THE BEST and TO FIND that hatch that was driven by jackie chan in cannon ball run. turbo 4x dr action! had to be the lightest 4x turbo car ever.

make sure you clutch is adjusted correclty, otherwise its like keeping your foot on the pedal, even when you let off.

we might have to have some drag races =] on and offroad. im thinking i will camp there, so i dont have to drive so much i one day, hows the camping look?

wiring will be your biggest nite mare, nothing just plugs in, you gotta give power where it needs to go, and lengthen disty wires, all kinds of fun wiring, i never got mine to work, but im trying again soon, it seemed easy at first, till i couldnt get my computer to do anything. good luck, hope you find the right advice from soneone who completed the efi install.

ea81s are my favorite, after a few ea82 cars. you cant go wrong with a brat or a hatch. but for pure luxury(power steering, power locks, windows, everything) ea82 cars are nice.

i leave that thing off, driving through deep snow, i have no problem. but yah, to get it on you have to jack up the motor. i dont think you have to undo the mounts, they are rubber.

thats a funny deal, i wonder if guys have swapped ea81 and ea82 carb motors, without knowing it was never done stock. im waiting for the day i find an ea81 car in the junkyard with ea82 stuff on in it. must be kinda peppy the way it is though right?