archemitis

believe me, it sounds crazy. its horrible. kinda like a fan stuck, and trying to move. almost sounds like a wind whistle on crack. just like a honking goose. i hit the horn, and it works good, even when the goose is honking so i dont think its a malfunctioning horn. just thought id see if anybody has had it happen, i cant figure it out. but it does only happen when its cold as hell, and i cant investigate for more than 10 minutes, before i start to freeze to death.

has anybody ever heard this, sounds like theres a goose under the hood, only sometimes. sounds like its where the alternator is. its an ea81 with no power steering, or ac. alternator, or water pump? anybody ever heard a goose under the hood before?

i can feel it in the wheel, and the floorboard, the grind at lower speeds. theres some shaking at higher speeds. visually i can see the ball joint moving, and the boot is torn and rust is showing inside whoohoo! any cheap sources on bearings?

efi will get you better mileage every time, but swapping in an spfi system is no easy task just for a few mpgs. you can drill some holes in your airbox, and leave that exhaust leake there, as long as its not rigght off the head, your doin better. poor mans exhaust upgrade:D or give it an open muffler. take out the back seats, and the spare. thats alot of weight. and on the BS. your guys tires were throwing off speedometers, or they are off in the first place. which messed up your calculations. with a gps on the dash, my spfi 2wd wagon got 30 mpg and it was the best ever. and thats a way more effiscient engine than an ea81 carb, so i say BS on 40 mpg.

oh yeah... on the highway if i turn towards the direction of the noise it gets quiet for a second. front passenger. thanks

8sumthin ea1 4x hatch. how can you tell. i know the ball joint is bad, and im going to replace that, but i suspect a bearing is messed up too, because it grinds, like a flatspot in a bearing, while rolling, but not when you spin it in the air. but last time i thought this on my 2x the bearing looked fine when i got it off. and at something like $60 a side, at napa, i dont want to go throwing parts at it.

thats crazy talk. theres a spot on the front of the carburetor, near the bottom, where it bolts to the manifold, on all the cars i have. and the weber has a brass one right in front too.

ea82 gen1 heads 205k original miles. the only thing done, was valve cover gaskets, and water pump. ea82s are some tough biches, if they make it past 150 they will go forever

well if you put it that way, subaru got rid of the ea81 for a good reason, otherwise they would be raging pushrods right now. pushrods= used forever, old technology ohc= the way the world works today whining about changing belts is for suckers!

have you tried turning the motor over, to wobble it out of it s hole. i admit im not sure what your talking about, pics would help.

yup big long timing chain.saved them an inch, or something like that.

but the only reason v8s dont have ohcams is because american iron sux. just imagine an ohc 327 with 32 valves. no not a cadillac motor. it would rule.

that just pisses me off. they are beating up on a bad rump roast brat, and they put the push button subaru 4x against a toyota. how bout best 4x in a car ever, dr or some crappy toyota wagon stuff?

ok, since i have never seen a 200 hp ea81 or even a 100 hp ea81s numbers i tend to disagree. look over that other post that has real numbers for an ea82 with a turbo. pretty low compared to what everybody has been throwing around this forum.

dont skimp on the springs. go bring it around to some motorcycle shops and see if you can get some heavy rump roast ones,100lbs from a kawasaki, or something. i did this with a isuzu, but havent tried with a subaru yet.

bottom line is pushrods are ghetto old technology. domestic motors are not a good example of what can be done with pushrods. they have used them forever. they just keep piggybacking new technology ontop of their old short blocks. the ea82 is the same size(bore and stroke) as the ea81, and it makes something like 15 more horsepower. all you gotta do is change the belts, and thats not hard. i will trade an ea81 for an ea82(engine) any day. and have, for good reason. better mpg and more hp right off the bat. the new 6 cylinders use a chain to keep the engine short enough to fit against the radiator. ohc is the only way to go! you ever see a ford guy swithcing a overhead valve motor for a flathead motor?

morganm had an exhuast on his spfi wagon that was 2inch pipes, back to dual 2, or 2.5 inch inlet cherry bombs, and no crossover pipe, and it sucked alot. no power till you hit 4 grand. it pulled like crazy, after that, but only good for airplanes. i think i saw one skip did that had some kind of xpipe that looked good. i got a stock y pipe, welded to a 2 inch pipe, going to a supertrapp. the ones with the adjustable back pressure. no bends. sounds nice

so... i used to get 30 mpg on the highway in my 92 spfi 2wd wagon, on a good day. now i have a hatch with a spfi long block and a hitachi carb. my secondaries are not opening, so i got no power. but... i am getting close to 40 mpg! if you need some insane gas mileage action. plug the vac line going to your secondary. does wonders in these tough economic times.

i can see how you would do it on a ea81, because they are on the same side, but the ea82 would need some kind of outrigging bracked. most likely thin strip of metal if thats it i will be so happy. my car runs reel funny with only one barrel

more fuel and air thats why everybody likes the weber, its not vac operated, its mechanical. so as soon as you mash the throttle its wide open. but now, i think im running with a single barrel 20mm carb.

or you can just pinch them off and weld them. thats what i did to the egr. remember all the posts you see about webers with problems, before you go for a weber, thinking it will make your world a better place.

im not sure if my secondaries are working. i pulled the vac hose off the actuator, thingy, and sucked on it and nothing happened. then i sucked on the hose where it gets its vac from and it seems to have gas, or oil in it because it gurgles. i ditched all the emissions stuff, and plugged all the holes. how can i force the secondaries to work? is a diafragm broken, or do i need more sophistocated tools than a hose and my mouth?

how much does this thing run stock? can i just bleed some pressure off the wastegate, to get some more boost? or is it computer cnotrolled? i am going to add either a volvo or a ford probe fmic, so whats the computer/injectors good for? i did a search and didnt find anything.

GD i dont think you can assume your float is set correctly ,just because it came from a factory that has guys doing it every day. everybody makes mistakes. just dont drop your needle:mad: theyre kinda spendy

i have 1.5 to 2 lbs of pressure on my hatch, with 194 k miles. nothing bad happens in the corners for me. seems like it would have to be the float level... even though you adjusted it. hrmmm