archemitis

aluminum junkyard radiator from an ea82 is a good swap. its easy as hell and it costs about 30 bucks. theres not realy any risk, as long as water runs through it, it works. better than a green fuzzy one any day.

isnt that the weak point with the xt6 engines? the heads always hold together, but the lower end gives out. does that engine have the same number of bearings as an ea82? or something that makes the lower ends poop out earlier than the 4bangers?

so, on the stock system(ea82) there is a hose coming out of each valve cover, they t and go into the pvc valve, on the manifold, just below the carburetor, and then they t again, and one hose is fed into the air cleaner. thats correct right? can you just t it and only run it into the pvc valve, and skip the t that feeds it into the air cleaner? can i just stick a clamp on pvc valve, and filter, on each valve cover, and be done with it? im runing a weber, with minimal vacc lines, and i cant quiet figure this one out. dont want it to leak even more

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7364 maybe this will help for the ea82 one, much easier. but much less power and glory

nope, no body parts interchange

ALSO, when you shift, the rpms will drop more, because the lightened one does not have as much inertia, as a heavy one.

i have heard this proclaimed before, but when i tried it, there is not enough of a flange on the carb. what are you doing, duct taping it on?

STD S ARE THE BEST. accessories weigh alot more, i would pick an std any day. as long as it had tilt. all i know is gl is grand luxury no doubt

thats what i thought when i talked to redline, and i called them back and talked to a different guy and he said the same. and not any atf, just theirs. im not saying do it, just give em a call, i have always talked to nice guys.

you know, every one i have pulled off, had the gasket stuck to the manifold, and i just use a razor blade. a little paper in the combustion chamber never hurt anybody anyway. and if it wont start, pull the disty cap off and dry it out and squirt some wd 40 in there.

i would take it to the car wash, wrap a bag around the disty, and go to town with the pressure washer, to get all the dirt off the engine. then make sure you drain the coolant system as much as possible to keep the green stuff out of your intake port, when you take the intake off. other than that, just dont strip the bolts out, and maybe use new ones when you put it bak on

i just put a motor with 204k original miles into my hatch. seems kinda crazy, but its got good oil pressure, and good compression and it doesnt smoke anything blue. and its even spfi, more compression. hopefully i can make it to 300k. has anyone else noticed, if they make it past 150k, they will go forever.

redshift, call em up and ask what they recommend. they told me to use their automatic tranny lube in my cousins manual 300zt. or this stuff called syncroshift, from jb or jd or sometihng like that. maybe you just need to change it.

i think they just sold a 1.6 for under 100 bucks(could be wrong on the price) real cheap. i like subaru motors with alot of miles, they work great.

straight water cools alot better than coolant. when i was in texas thats all i ran in the summer

oh man i just got it its crappy thread count, crappy 70s screen printing, and its small enough to fit a 11 year old. but its scannable, and

well, not that anyone cares, but i talked to an old timer last nite, and he said it was prolly one vac point to retard the timing and one was to advance.

im gonnna have to call redline today and hope they can give me the jets that they supply with their kits. im way off. i think i was getting 10 mpg:headbang:

you know that smoke coming out of your tail pipe? well, its getting blown right up your a$$ if you buy into any of that motor rebuild in a can.

with ihi turbos, bigger is better, the legacy is noticeably bigger, and has to be worth the to 40bucks that one can be had for. at around 1600 bucks for the tdo4 turbo alone, i thnk the legacy is great bang for the buck upgrade.

yus guys are making it way too complicated spfi. most common fuel delivery system for the mid to late eighties bolts right on, just a little mod to make the ea82 distributor work. somoen has used cis from a vw, but why use that when subaru already did all the r&d for you.

the mazdas had a big enough center hole? or was that moded too?

i guess if your runing a giant stereo, or a welder, otherwise why? an alternator that big must use about as much hp as an ac compressor.

wheres miles fox when you need him?

mines got 160 and 165 mains, and its fat as hell. you guys might be interested to know, jest for S&S carbs for halryes, fit. you gotta cut off half of it, but the threads fit.