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archemitis

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Everything posted by archemitis

  1. PEOPLE WITH WEBERS please tell me what jets you are runing, if you are using a regulator, return line, stock fuel pump, gas mileage. anything you can think of. i want to compile some info for people trying to get their jetting right(including me).
  2. little pieces of wire bent to hold the throughtout bearing to the clutch fork. i have never replaced those, they were always in good shape. but it would suck if you lost one or broke one, when your car is in pieces.
  3. i think the only reason they die is poor treatment. i just took a motor out of a wagon with 204k miles on it, and would have no problem putting it in another car.
  4. they run the same clutch on turbo ea82 that they run on carbed ea81s. thats around 40hp difference, and the turbos can go 200k without a clutch change... so, i would just run a generic $200 clutch kit, with throughout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch plate, and pressure plate, and alignment tool. thats everything, and it shoul hold fine untill you ditch the car. i like to pull the engine to do a clutch, because its easier than crawling around on the ground, and nothing is easier than a subaru motor swap. but others will say loosen the tranny and just pull it back around 6 inches, and you can do it that way. you might need to resurface your flywheel, if you let it go too long, like metal rivits on metal flywheel. but if it looks relatively smooth and not blue or brown, or gouged, on the mating surfaces, i would run it
  5. im runing another wierd combination. spfi long block, with carb manifold, and weber. i have two distributors. one is from a carb ea82 4x, with one vac point and two wires. the other one is off an 85 mpfi, with two vac points. i know both will work, but would the one with two vac points be a progressive advance. like better? if i use the one with the two vac points, could i just t one vac line to both of them, or does one go before throttle plate, and one after? somebody shed some light please
  6. was just thinking. are you getting an ignition pulse, is the injector working? if so, it prolly just needs power, otherwise i THINK it would spark, without the computer.
  7. its gotta be from vibration(hopefully). just bend the little friction maker part out further, and it'll hold tighter.
  8. did you change the motor too, or just the manifold? if you are runing an ea81 with the spfi manifold and harness, you would have to change the disty to the ea82. but if you swaped the whole ea82 along with the spfi, you would need to keep your stock(spfi ea82) disty. either way, its gotta have four wires and no vac. points sounds like you have the whole ea82 and spfi stuff, its gotta be one of those four wires. two go to the disty, and two go to the comp. and you have to give power to the positive side of the disty. and the negative should be for the tack, i think. good luck man, i was trying to get mpfi to run in my hatch, and i just swapped it out for an spfi block with a weber.
  9. just hoping someone will see this. im stumped for the moment, and the only good writeups on efi swaps for subarus, are for the 2.2, which is close, but different.
  10. thats what i was just thinking gd. maybe it would be just like driving around in 2wd.
  11. i would put the front wheels on the dlly and take the drive shaft off. thats the only real safe way to tow a 4x. but sometimes you get lucky and everything is cool with the driveshaft on.
  12. its funny to look at mine, with only an alternator. then to look at that with ac, power steering, turbo. looks nice as hell
  13. isolate? as in just run your fuel off of megasquirt? you could do that with a carb, or a pre 87 mpfi disty.
  14. is it understood knowledge that brats have better cams than other ea81s? or is that another unprooved usmb myth?
  15. why would you want it to sit higher? higher center if gravity in the front, hood clearance may become a problem, and theres no reason to do it. just a thought, good luck on the efi wiring, im still fighting that battle
  16. they arent coated, as far as i know. the angle should be 45, or 46 degrees depending on how subaru lapped them in. not sure grinding your valves would save you any money, because thats not part of the job that takes any time
  17. i just ordered them for mine, out of a napa book, and all the rear discs were listed as the same part number. as long as you are ordering rear discs, for a 90 and earlier, you will get the correct ones. comeone correct me if you know this to be false. but be nice about it, my feelings get hurt. but those parts guys are dumb, so ask for the rx stuff.
  18. if you are reading it out of a book, then its probably somethjing to do with different compression ratios
  19. minnie-apolis another subaru guy in minnesota... i only know about two others project huh... that means its gonna take a long time, or cost alot of money hehe
  20. what would be the coolest vanity plate for my brown metal flake 80s 4x hatch with an mpfi ea82? 80smusl getdown as in get down brown! 80srule gogogo
  21. but those guys are runing 20+lbs. on a car that is going to push around 10 lbs, 9:1 to 9.5:1 is doable.
  22. mpfi into carb car so, the ONLY part of the harness i have is on page 2. i have power to the injectors and everything on that circuit, the ignition pulse wire off the negative of the coil is hooked up, all the grounds are hooked up. but i still have no led on the computer, and no injector signal. i am missing a power somwhere. i am wondering if i need the ig pwr supply on the computer powered, along with the starter signal. do i have to hook that stuff up? right now its all hotwired without any relays. is the fuel injection that picky about everything bing hooked up? also on the red connector i have a few of the wires putting out .1 volt, are those for guages or sensors? ug, im looking at a half inch thick piece of aluminum, a brigeport, and a weber, thinking it would be easier to make the weber fit instead of making the efi work. but i hate carbs! somebody please help! anything to get me thinking again
  23. should be fine, the rear of the valve covers are where it gets close, so the only thing the er27 guys need to worry about is the radiator.
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