archemitis

you got a shop and a welder, and two subarus, that would make one awesome subaru. im not going to try and talk you out of it. i say go for it. if you have to, run a 4 speed, with bigger tires you wont get into fifth often, anyway.

80S F150 4X4 OUT OF A SNOWY DITCH

i got it, sorry if i stepped on anybodys toes, but he does have more. check out the 70s SUBARU SHIRT post.

if this is the wrong spot for this, i am sorry, but check this out http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2444834736&category=6753&rd=1 i am going to get a few made for me, on black, but i was wondering if anyone would be interested in these, if they ran around 15 bucks? if you would like one of these, say whoohoo, and what size you need. hope that link works

well, heres what i did. the shield went right into a connector, that i assume had a wire on the other side that went to ground. so i grounded the shield, and then i put the wire inside of that one(turned out to be black), onto the negative side of the coil. so cold my damn soldering gun isng getting hot enough. im gonna go turn it over and see if i can get any signal to the fuel injectors. i do have spark, and fuel pressure!

thats an important one. nothing at all:banana: mine is very close, but it fits fine. very close like i cant get my pinky in there

we'll just keep em out of here then:banana: :banana: :banana:

5/16 coarse has fits right in to stripped holes, even without taping on my ea82s.

since there is only one signal, these are batch fire injection system right?

the hill holder will have to be unbolted and relocated back an inch or two. you will also have to bend the brtake lines a little. you can swap out the master cylinder for one from an automatic-it will give more distributor clearance. you can also remove the distributor when pulling/dropping the engine, it will help get around the master cylinder. you can loosen the motor mounts from the motor so they wiggle, and that gives enough play to fit the studs thru the crossmember. ea81 4x4 8 7/8s flywheel, bolt holes had to be oversized one size. i moved the timing marks(cam and ignition), so it works with the ea82 engine. 8 7/8 4x ea81 clutch, and an ea81 pressure plate. put the hooK from the front of the ea81 onto the ea82 to hook the chain to, for the hoist(if not using power steering bracket) you can also use an ea82 flywheel and pressure plate, with the ea81 disc, as long as the throwout bearing isnt the small one(2wd 5 spd) some(i have found 1) 4x xts and push buttons came with the small flywheel, so make sure you are using the big one. you can use the ea82 flywheel, but it is heavier, but it retains your stock timing marks. the bottom radiator hose will have to be fanagled to fit an ea81 radiator, but on tom's brat for example, has an ea82 radiator, the holes for the top mounts will have to be drilled into the ea81 core support. an ea81 manifold woll fit, but on carter/wever models, you will have to make a dent in the power steering reservoir for the solenoud on the fromt of hte carb. throttle cable swii swap between ea81 and ea82, its best to use the throttle cable for the intake setup that you use when swapping an ea82 into an ea81 body, any 85 and 86 distributor will be compatible with any 83 and up ea81 ignition systems. for those models with voltage regulators, the VR can be eliminated with the ea82 distributor. {Is THAT THE DISTY, OR THE ALTERNATOR?} when using a hitachi carb from an ea82, you must use the ea82 airbox(black) because the top af the carb is larger. but other than that, they are the same as ea81(blue) and all the connections fit the same, and the same air filters and tops will fit either one. you can use the ea82 battery cables, and installed the battery opposite, which would be tha same as ea82 setup. also relocated the coil to be on the distributor side, and spliced the coil's original connectors to wire that runs along the firewallto meet the coil's new location Upon installing the engine, you'll want to leave the motor mounts loose at the engine block. This will help to get the studs into the slots in the crosmember. You can then tighten the mounts to the engine. Before you tighten the mounts to the crossmember, be sure to check that the engine is centered between the frame-rails. It will be close, not much more than a 1/4" per side.(or less) the ea82 rad will fit, if you pull out the bottom studs, and redrill holes in the frame for the upper mounting bolts. it doesnt realy fit all the way down, so it sticks up, but it fits good. does this list look complete for the carb setup? miles, on the voltage regulator part, did you mean disty or alt?

well, the gray wire, has two wires going into it. im guessing the black one is the shield, and has to be grounded? does this sound right? also, miles, you ever smoke a computer because it was hooked up slightly wrong? because thats my biggest fear here, and why i am trying to get this figured.

of torque on the head bolts, that is.

i have heard some horror stories about copper head gaskets before. maybe give her some more lbs

if i get one, and everybody wanst one, i got the hook up at a tshirt shop

i got 30-31 hwy with my old 2wd spfi high compression wagon. i thought that was as good as it gets.

i bid like a maniac before i saw this, but my plan is to give it to my buddy and make a few on black. lets face it, if you got a subaru, the white shirt wont last long.

if i had no 4x4, i would be raging a coat hanger right off the bat.

i think poeple know what i meant.

ANYBODY EVER NOTICE SKIP ONLY USES HIS KNOWLEDGE TO TRY AND MAKE PEOPLE LOOK STUPID, AND NEVER TO HELP SOMEONE TRULY IN NEED. SORRY SKIP =P

its an 85 xt motor and harness. the disty has two vac ports. i have a diagram from the net that is for the flapper style. the diagram shows a knock sensor, but i am na, so i dont have one. i have got power to all the stuff that needs 12 volts, so i think ALL i need now is the correct igniton pulse wire, and its loud time. i only have part of the harness, so i am runing the wires that i dont have. thanks i was thinking it had to be that grey one

one of the power wires going to the little 4x engage motor could be grounded.

i have conflicting info on my wiring diagrams. my diagram shows a wire from the negative of the coil going to the computer. its supposed to be straight yellow. my engine harness has no yellow wire, just striped ones. also the diagram says it will change to a shielded wire:-\ i need to know what color this wire should be. close to the computer. maybe this is too vague, i just gotta figure where to hookup my ignition pulse. i wuld hate to give power to my ground side of the coil.

cant you run that system without it?

early like 85-87 mpfi ea82 n/a. my wiring diagram says i should have 4 wires coming off my disty. two go to the coil, and two are supposed to go the knock sensor unit. but i dont have a turbo, and i dont think i will be using the knock sensor. if this is true, should i be able to run my car with only two wires coming off the disty and going to the coil? or do i need two more?

im not sure what you mean by ported, but you have to get vaccum from behind the throttle plate. i think all the ports on the carb will be vac ones. you might need to try something else. what if its carbon buildup in the cylinders?