crazyhorse001

What you just described...slow shifting...is more likeley as not a line pressure problem. If youve flushed the trans, and changed the filter, you may have a pump on its way out. You can save the trans if you have a pump put in. Otherwise you'll burn out the clutches pretty quick. High gear will be the first to go.

On the plus side, the windshield wont leak without that piece. On the down side those are getting hard to find. If you can get it close to its original shape, you can put it back on easily. You see the plastic clips? Tighen the screws in them about a half turn each, then put some 3m trim tape on the raised part of the body. Pop the part back on and push it down onto the tape. While you're looking for parts c'mon over to www.subaruxt.com A good bunch of folks over there. By the way i've owned 5 XT's over the years.

The fwd switch puts power to the duty c solenoid, opening the clutch. In normal driving it pretty much stays open. When the vehicle speed sensors pick up any difference in speed front to rear, it closes and opens the clutch rapidly to send power to the rear. You can add a switch to shut off the duty c, and have full time 4wd. As johneccleston said DON'T do this on dry pavement. It can shear the center clutch off the shaft. Do a search as to which pin you need to switch on the tcu for this. Have fun but be warned you can break your trans if you dont play nice with it lol

Nothin, but NOTHIN can stand up to Smokey the Big Blue Wrench Besides theres something uniquely macho about burning steel with fire *grin* I've had luck putting a big cheater on a 3/4 breaker and driving the car a foot or two to crack really stubborn ones. Kinda like putting a breaker on the crank bolt and bumping the starter. Not 100% foolproof but usually does the trick

First things first... Look at your tires! If they are mismatched, or not worn evenly even a new duty c and transfer clutch wont fix the binding. For the time being, you can run in fwd mode with the fuse. Always start simple! If it turns out you need to rebuild the clutch, is fairly straightforward, and doesnt require removing the trans.

Thanks again nipper lol The mount in question is the rear trans mount. At some point in the future, i'll have the original trans rebuilt, and put it back in. till then, the rear end is just a place holder lol

Thats perfectly normal. Those lights stay on until you start the engine.

Thanks nipper! Im sure it will work, i just need to know if i have to buy a new rear mount, or if the awd part will work.

The high rev shifting could be from the throttle position sensor being out of adjustment. I'm sure a search will get you the procedure for setting it. In a nutshell if the trans cant tell where the throttle is, it assumes its wide open, and holds the gear longer. The second, less likeley alternative is the brake band needing adjustment. Its a simple in car thing. Again, search is your friend. If the site search doesnt help, Google will.

The diagnostic port is on the dash there is a small door labeled diagnostic something or other. Pop it open, walla! Theres your port.

So i bought this really nice looking SVX for dirt cheep . It has what else, a bad trans . I'm putting a fwd trans into it. I have a 3.9 fwd trans from a 93 lego, and the tcu from the same car. Will my awd rear mount work, or am i gonna hafta source a rare fwd mount? Before y'all start flaming me for doing the fwd thing, know that i operate on a shoestring budget. Just having a "toy car" is a luxury for me. Fwd has much lower operating costs, and allows me to do a "staggered" look for a much meaner looking car For the photo hogs... Any and all help will be appreciated, thanks in advance.

Water wetter? Ive never used it, but i know drag racers who swear by it. They sit in the staging lanes, and claim it prevents heat soaking the intake. Hot intake = bad times on the strip

Following the BRZ saga reminds me of another tragic car story, the SVX. It too had moves like Flynn, but lacked raw power. The dealers didnt know how to sell it either. Why Fuji didnt learn its lesson then, i dont know.

Thanks for all the aewsome info guys. I REALLY wanna get my XT6 back on the road. If anyone has ever driven an xt very hard, you know the brakes are SUPER fade prone. Its no fun to be at 8/10ths and have the pedal go all squishy with an ugly off camber corner looming! Im not doing a ton of engine mods i like my er27 all super reliable lol. I am building a true cold/ram air system from a turbo hood tho. I have a ej throttle body i may incorporate IF i can bastardize the older tps to it. It has a larger diameter so should wake it up a little. Also in the works is a 4EAT piggyback paddleshift, and virtual DCCD kit based on an industrial plc. Any 4eat gurus i can consult for duty c frequencies, and when i move the shifter through the forward gears are there any physical linkage movements inside the trans?

Ok, i have a 4eat so a parking brake isnt a huge issue. If i went with svx parking brakes wouldnt i be pigeonholed into the 5x114.3 bolt pattern? If i were into that i wouldve swapped out the svx parts i had on hand not long ago. On the rear fabrication, im satisfied with the original setup on the back, except the brakes. Could i swap my original fronts there to have an e-brake. Im not skeered of a little fab work, but reworking complete hubs is beyond my skill set lol

Im looking for good info on running ej hubs on my xt6 i want to go to the dual pot brakes from an svx for more whao that wont fade out in 5 mins of hard use lmao. Im also looking for a balanced ride/ handling setup. I'm looking for an SVX like atitude where it rides good, but doesnt wallow in the corners. I asked this question on the xt site as well but i know there are a lot more people here with great experience, and ideas.

The svx is for the most part reliable, but if you cant work on it yourself, it will be VERY expensive to maintain. most mechanics, including subie dealers dont have a clue about them. That said, yes the trans IS the weak link on these, fortunately its the same trans as every ej series car uses, including the STi 6speed *evil grin*.

At each strut you cut a wire. Inside are 4 condutors. Tie together the blue/brown wires, and the system thinks it's at normal height. Easier than pulling apart your interior.

So, is it me, or is there a trend in the '14-'15 model subies having serious electronic issues? Previous to toyota's involvement they didnt have the new car blues, like they are now. Coincidence? You be the judge.

Except for bumpers and badges, yes its a wrx.

Just a quick thought, check your brake lights, and clutch switch if its a manual. These will both prevent cruise from working. It may be as simple as a stuck switch. If not, then you need the codes read.

Actually its far more likeley that it blew an intake gasket...unless it was driven that way any distance. Remember the ea's have coolant passages in the intake. I had an 86 xt that popped an intake gasket, and blew steam out the tailpipe.

A 97 with an auto is most likeley an EJ25. You may wanna hunt a 96 back 5spd, or impreza for an EJ22. Dont discount the EJ18 either, they're torquey, and do better on fuel.

I'm pretty sure they're aftermarket. That said, they're not the standard cheapo pep boys specials. Probably 70's or 80's vintage. Probably special ordered from sears or jc whitney.

Why? These are anything but performance cars. That said, if you keep the n2o/fuel balanced properly a 50 shot shouldnt be like pulling a pin on a grenade, IF USED SPARINGLY. The ea81 is a pretty tough motor, but n2o will destroy the toughest if misused, or not properly tuned. Think holed pistons, and burnt valves.