crazyhorse001

Fit, yes. Bolt in, not really. I think you'll need an adapter plate, and a few other items. Im sure one of the gurus will weigh in soon enough tho.

I've seen those, yeah the brat looks REALLY rough. I'm kinda digging the wagon, except the dog doo brown color lol. Rough isnt really a bad thing as long as its not eat up with rust.

Most, if not all '82 subarus are EA81 powered from the factory that is The primary differences are in the carburetors. Rust is a big thing on a 32 yr old subaru, especially if it lived in the snow belt for any length of time. My '82 hatch is a lifetime local southern car, and it has rusted to a point of being completely unsafe. At $600, you did ok if the body isnt rusted beyond repair. If it is, you may be able to part it for what you have in it.

So my 225k mi EA81 hatch is a torque monster. Its twisting itself in two. At the moment the passenger side is about 1" lower than the driver's side. The car is rusty, i just had no idea it was THAT rusty! I hate to give up on my hatch, its such a good runner, and i went on my honeymoon with my beautiful wife in it, in a snow storm, in the smoky mountains...true Subie heaven. Hopefully I can find a decent EA81 body, preferrably a hatch, coupe or brat, I'll have a great powertrain to drop in. I had to quit driving it, as its tweaked to the point of kinking the radiator hoses. Anyone know of a decent body within 100mi of knoxville tn, hit me up, and keep it kinda cheap, cause i dont need a powertrain, just a body. I dont even need a nice interior lol

I do industrial maintenance for a living, and i have a box full of H/F tools. I havent broken anything in a long time. I use a 1/2" impact almost daily with matching sockets. Even when working on a 1500 ton stamping press they've held up...occasionally being adapted to a 3/4 drive ingersoll shop impact. I have gearwrench brand wrenches, and craftsman for the bigger stuff, but overall the H/F stuff does what i need it to do...namely make me a living That said +1 for thier power tools being junk!

So, mi 82 GL hatchy has been acting really funny. My mileage has gone to pot, and when turning to the right, it will stumble, miss, buck, and fart. Only when turning right tho. It has a fresh tune up on it, with maybe 100mi. Including all filters. As for the mileage it went from 300mi/ tank to like 200. The car is all original, including the carby. I dont have the drive to swap a $300 weber on to a $500 car, so thats not an option. Besides, the body is way too rusty to invest much money into it. I love my hatchy, but i cant drive it with it trying to cut out like that. My luck is it'll die and not start back! Help me keep another hatchy on the road!

I think the 3at has an electric kickdown through a microswitch on the gas pedal. That would control a vacuum solenoid which will open the power valve in the trans. I'd start there. With no kickdown the car will feel plain lazy. Mileage will suffer too

No kickdown means the trans defaults to hi gas mileage mode. Is this a 3at, or 4eat? This is important cause they work VERY differently

If i recall....ea71, 81, and 82 should all be interchangeable, so that opens up a wide range of trans for ya Barring that...Vegas Baby! Tranny heaven lmao

The only 4eat trans ratio that i know of thats a "bolt in" is 3.70 from a loyale. Bolt in is in quotes because, with the proper parts, it will bolt right in behind any ea/er engine. The tricky bit is its an electronically controlled trans, so it has its very own computer. The really hard part comes when that computer wants info from the engine computer. The 4.44 you mentioned is an ej trans. If you're going that far you may as well do a full ej swap. Doable, yes, but definately not plug n play

An xt6 er27 6cyl will also bolt to the trans, and mounts, but not much more

The search button is your friend here. Theres a whole section devoted to off road modifications Cheers!

I knew it had been discussed, i just couldnt find the thread lol. I searched 3 or 4 different ways. The answers i got pretty much the response i expected. I may end up redrilling my hubs to 4x100ish. That opens up all the various rice wheels lol

The power steering issue is most likeley a set of $15 brushes in the motor. Its a full electrohydraulic system thats built for the long run. Id be more concerned about the price, as $2600 seems kinda steep. Check out the classifieds on www.subaruxt.com for prices on these awesome cars. This from an owner of a really nice 89 XT6

So, i've been looking around, and saw some 14", and 15" atv wheels that are the same bolt pattern as our ol' subies. My question is, will street tires mount to these, and will they hold up to the weight/stress of road use? My hatch's off road days are behind it, and im looking to go up in wheel size for more readily available tires. Pugs are neat, but rare/pricey. Redrilling hubs, or wheels seems a bit dodgy to me. Any, all opinions welcome, and considered, thanks in advance

Even better! Yes, its a rear diff i need to swap. The 3.9 lsd, i have no idea if its stock to the xt6 or not. The car SEEMS pretty stock, but rusted really horribly. Im just stoked that its a bolt in for my hatch. At some far point in the future it'll get a full 5lug swap, and the 5spd difflock trans from the 6 as well. My hatch will never see offroad again. Im going the opposite way with it. I have a 28 mile commute over twisty mountain roads. I plan on dropping it, doing coilovers, and wide, wide tires lol. Think 80's california canyon carver. HEHEHE

Thanks for the quick replies. That means the 3.9 lsd i have will work, with a few minor mods. Like changing the stub axles. Its out of an XT6 5spd

Whats the final drive ratio in my 4spd D/R tranny? Ive searched hi, and lo, to no avail. Im hoping someone will lie to me and tell me its 3.90. LOL

My 89 XT6: 193,000mi 82 hatch: 222,000 95 SVX: died at 287,000

Buller? Buller? Anyone? Is this a bolt on, or will it require serious modifications?

I have an xt6 parts car, can i use it to 5 lug my hatch? Im sure i'll have to use the struts, and control arms on the front, and probably build some hybrid axles all the way around. Id like to use 15" wheels for the better selection of tires.

This makes sense! Thank you very much.

The column itself doesnt move. The wheel feels like the nut is loose, as all the play is at the very top. There is no play at all when you turn the wheel. It steers perfectly, but the steering wheel wobbles when you push, or pull on one side

It looks really nice in pics, but its REALLY rusty. I look to have it for maybe 2-3 years before it gets unsafe. Its an 82 ea81 4spd d/r. It runs REALLY strong. A shame because of the rust.

My recently acquired ea81 hatch has a strange issue. The steering wheel feels like its loose on the column. I've checked the wheel nut, its tight. (Unlike the the nut behind it lol) Any ideas what is loose, and am i in danger of losing my steering wheel?