crazyhorse001

I'm sorry, but there is just no way to create enough hydrogen, from water, "on the fly" to run a car. Wait, let me clarify, not with current technolgies anyway. No pun intended.

MY GOD! Turbone showed us his tooters! I'm looking at a set of good ol' 'murican horns from an old Lincoln, for the SVX

Our seatbelts have inertia reels in them. They won't lock without a sharp jolt to the chassis (IE braking hard, or an accident).

There should be a small clip available, which will make the 3point belt behave as a 2point. These should be in the box with the child seat, otherwise they are available separately, hanging with the seats in the store. I'm assuming your Lego has the "Latch" setup. Using the latch, and the belt clips is reccommended.

Exiga is an old name for Subaru. They've used it since at least '89. Mostly for concept wagons, that were thinly veiled production cars. Looks a LOT like a tallish Outback.

I like the red under mud two tone one eye.

The EG33 is DOHC. The belt drives the exhaust, then gears drive the intake. The Timmy covers are plastic, designed to look like they have 4 cam pulleys. See cutaway below....

Nip, there are aftermarket indshields out there for ~350...they're hard to find, but they are out there.

R&T guide to the SVX HERE Read on & enjoy.

I love my SVX. The original trans died at 247k mi. Wth a quarter million miles on it, it's just as tight, and rattle free as my wife's 150k mi Legacy. Two questions that went unanswered: 1. The SVX came with a rear LSD stock. 2. The manual swap donors are any EJ series cars. Up to, and including the WRX STI 6-spd. Those need a bit of electronic wizardry to make the DCCD work. C'mon over to http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum and dig around. There's TONS of good info there, and a dedicated bunch of owner/enthusiasts.

OK cool beans. If I can get it cheap I intend to EJ swap it & sell it. I'm betting with a new Subie in the driveway, the old one has a bazillion miles on it. If not, I'll just resell it "as-is" Though it's great to see brand loyale-ty:lol:

Only the touring wagon has the stepped roof right? Would it also be a GL-10 trim level, or could it be a stripped down model too? I haven't stopped to look at the car. With it being on my route to "work" I see it daily. I also know it's been a D/D for a long time, as I've seen it around town. Parked in thier driveway is a gorgeous black '08 OBW. I'm guessing the poor Loyale is being replaced. The owner is asking $1800 The car is FREAKIN CLEAN!!!!!! IIRC it already has 14" Pug steelies on it as well. No lift, or offroad tires, just steelies & street tires.

EJ22's are the stuff alright. However, I have an EG33 with 250k on it. It has more to do with the badge on the front, than the engine under the hood *grins*

It sounds like you may have crossed the 3rd brake light with the rear defrost. Defrosters carry a lot of current, that's how they work.

If you take off the steering wheel & seat, a 12hp/36" cut lawn mower will fit inside a '97 Lego Wagon.

I think they hit the core of the "die hard" Subie lover. While we may not ever really buy a brand new Subie, we'll keep buying the old ones. We stay within an "interchange" span of years, so that our previous 400k/mi car will provide parts for our "new" 150k/miler. Purchased because it needed some "TLC".

I'd suspect the wires in the hatch itself. Maybe pull back the corrugated tube & give them a look-see

I've read good & bad about CCR. Most of the bad stems from what are truly nit-picking. The good is always glowing praise. If I were in the market for a Subie motor, and had the budget for it, I'd buy one from them in a heartbeat.

I was just taking your statement one step further A/E I wanted those not in manufacturing to know that, changeovers, or tool changes, are not going to happen often in a high-speed production environment.

Actually, truth be known, I'd bet they don't even change the bottle. I bet they just load in a different roll of labels & fire the line back up. Advance uses a black bottle w/red lid. So does Havoline. Coincidence? I think not. It's not in the manufaturers best interest to change how they make thier product. When they need to go back to thier premium brand, they'd have to stop the line to get the specs back in order. Downtime costs BIG BUX! I know we ran premium American Greetings product, and Dollar Tree product on the same machines. The quality was exactly the same. The only difference was the labels. The price difference? AG $6/roll DT $1/roll.

I pulled my codes, yep the AT TEMP gave them to me. I have one code...Duty C. So... I'll be cracking the case on my old tranny to pull it. I'll swap it in when I get the cash to buy a 4.11 rear diff to swap.

On my 87.5 XT I had a similar issue, after replacing the HG's. I was able to disassemble the disty, and clean the photo-eye. This cleared my problem right up. It may not be your issue, but clean parts are happy parts.

Cadillac CTS-V wheels are 6-lug...see pic Viper wheels are 6-lug Light, hi-performance wheels can be had in 6-lug applications. The new gen performance cars use truck components. (the Viper uses Dakota parts)

I checked the sealing surface for flatness, it APPEARS flat, but getting to it, with the engine in, is a bit of a pain. As for tightening, I've been using a 6lug wheel tightenig pattern. I haven't yet broken out the torque wrench, but I will. So the water pumps are a common part # on the EJ22-25's?

The engine is an ej22, the pump is an ej25, that MAY be my problem. I installed the pump from my EJ25, as it had less than 1k miles on it. I was told when I got the engine, that the W/P was bad. Curiously, there was black RTV all around the pump, as if it was leaking before. Could there be unseen cracks in the block? If so, can I find them without removing the engine?