crazyhorse001

After all that, if you hack into the factory wiring harness I'll shoot ya!

I also like that you put tunes under the hood too

If someone went to the trouble to destroy the rest of the car, a few seconds to put something nasty in the gas, or oil is nothing. I agree it sounds like revenge.

If you're REALLY serious about going 2WD you'd need to disassemble the rear axles. Then put the stubs back into the spindles. Then you can pull the rear half of the driveshaft, and the rear diff. This will net you MAYBE 65lbs of weight savings, and MAYBE 1mpg My thouhts are with the Gurus above. Give it a good tuneup, check the O2 sensor, and make sure the tires are properly inflated. These things will net you 3-5mpg if they've been neglected.

Well, I bought the motor with a bad waterpump, and swapped on my sub-1k mile pump. I tightened the bolts, but didn't really put any mojo on them. I'm kinda leary of stripping out holes in aluminum. I'll just pull the timing covers & put a bit of muscle behind the bolts to hopefully get it sealed. Shouldn't take but a couple hours. As easy as this swap went, I'm not worried by the kind of small bugs I have.

Here's my current alarm issue: '97 Lego LSI: I have keyless entry & no remote. The car sat awhile, and the battery died. Now the 4-way flashers want to stay on. I'm assuming that's the alarm going off, no clues as to why the horn isn't honking, as it does work. How the heck do I reset the alarm with no remote? I've already started & drove the car, and the flashers are just happily doing thier thing the whole time! I pulled the fuse to the security system, but the red LED on the dash just flashes angrily! How can I fix this without getting out the wire cutters?

Fixed your post

IT'S ALIVE, ALIVE MUAHAHAHA!!!! I made a few bone headed mistakes, but she runs & drives under her own power. I've got a few more things to button up. Things like the water pump is leaking at the seal, and I need new exhaust manifold gaskets. But dadgummit she runs! I couldn't have done it without all your help.:cool: I need to give a special shout out to two people, Huck369, and grossgary. These two guys absolutely ROCK.

The EA82T isn't a "bad" motor, they just don't like being modded, or abused. They're all getting up on 20yrs old, and needy. For a daily driver they're the bees knees though. If you want to mod it, and run the snot out of it an EJ is a good choice.

If you snag it quick, you might be able to get it for the tow/storage bill. BTW I always did like the way Berettas looked.

IIRC the GL-10 said just that on the trunklid. The RX had a decal on the back door. They were both available with the spoiler, or at least I've seen them both with it. If the car's been repainted you may need to find out if the RX/GL-10 difference can be sorted out with a VIN check.

Thanks for the info. I'll swap them 1st thing in the AM.

I'd think you'd have to piggyback an electronic controller onto the TCU. It wouldn't be as simple as that, but it's definately doable.

I just had this prob on an EJ, today as a matter of fact. I hammered in a brass putty knife to get it started, then progressively larger screwdrivers, until I could get a tire iron in & pry them apart. In my case, the dowel pins had rusted.

The Baja is a mildly modified Legacy. Any manual that covers a Legacy will do just as wel for a Baja.

Bserk, it's really as easy as changing engines. I remarked to "She Who Must Be Obeyed" that I've cussed on this job less than more minor stuff on our other cars. If you can swap engines, you can drop an EJ22 in where an EJ25 used to live. Granted, I'm a born grease monkey, and I have a decent set of tools. Aircraft engineer, I put a new T-belt on the 2.2, and timed it according to the endwrench article in the USRM. The original idlers on the 2.2 weren't all that bad, but the ones on the 2.5 had less than 1k mi on them. It's WAY easier than doing them on the old EA82 I had! BTW, I still need to know if I need to swap the flexplate.

Right now, I've got more time invested in swapping over the good parts from the EJ25 to the EJ22. The 2.2 looked like it came from the northeast. I'm sure all the accessories are in good working order, but the pullies are a bit rusty. I know the ones from the 2.5 are good, so why not take the time to swap 'em over? I also know that the idlers & waterpump on the 2.5 are good, as I just did the T-belts, idlers & waterpump on it. I had NO idea just how much these two engines had in common. 'Nuther quick question...Do I need to swap the flexplates? They don't look the same. Have I mentioned that you all ROCK!!

That story, in a nutshell, is why Pintos get such a bad rap. As for a car to drive, & tinker with, they can't be beat! I used to have a decal in the back window that said "Hit me & we BOTH explode!" The PO of my pinto didn't think Ford did a good enough job "fixing" the rear end, so he backed the bumper with 6" channel, and mounted it on 6" I-beam to the chassis. I mounted a receiver hitch to the bumper & wouldn't have a problem hooking to anything. I love my Pinto, it's a killer lil horse. She's not fast, but once she's moving I don't need to slow down much. Back to the topic at hand. I split the engine/trans with a brass putty knife and a hammer. I now have the EJ25 on the bench, and the EJ22 on a tire, ready to go in 1st thing in the AM. If I get a full day on it & the "Y" pipe co-operates it ought to be running tomorrow evening. Total time so far 14 hrs.

Look, my Lego has CrazyHorse Power yo!

Thanks guys. I knew it'd be something simple like that. Y'all ROCK Now as for the EJ22. I've got the TC bolts out of it, and the 4 bellhousing bolts. I can't get the engine to separate from the trans though. I don't really wanna "He-Man" it, cuz I need that tranny. It looks to me that there's some corrosion on the dowel pins holding me up. Any secret handshake mojo for geting the two to separate?

OK, I'm up against a wall here! 2 questions 1. What kind of bent wrench, with what kind of rocket science do I need to undo the torque converter bolts? (In the 97 Lego 2.5) 2. The engine I have to go in is still attached to the trans, I have the TC loose, and the 4 bolts out of the bell. However it still won't turn loose. Did I miss something?(On the bench Imp 2.2) I know this is gonna be a simple stupid solution, so be nice to the n00b

I was in a chain store the other day & a guy was buying an axle for a Lego. I told my buddy, "he'll be back"

I can't speak for the Legos, but the SVX has the switch screwed to the lock cylinder. I know Subaru doesn't like to redesign the wheel for every new model. I'm betting they're the same. The SVX has a prob with that screw coming loose & creating intermittent no start, or no crank issues. Just a random thought from a random mind.

Hey all I'm starting the swap to the MUCH more reliable EJ22 from EJ25. I fully intend to document this swap as thouroughly as possible. With pics as well. What I'm starting with: '97 Legacy LSI Wagon. EJ25 W/blown head gaskets. 4EAT What I have to put in: '96 Impreza EJ22 "Y" pipe from said impreza Officially I'll start ripping things out of the Lego on Monday. I have a Brother label maker to tag things as I pull them out. No more smeared masking tape for me LOL

Just an off the wall question from an off the wall guy.... Is the back end of your car turning black & oily between washes? If it's not, I'd lay odds on it leaking oil, rather than burning it. Remember Subies don't leak, they mark thier territory. My best redneck advice, before deciding that it's burning oil is, to slide a large piece of cardboard under the motor after a nice, hard flogging. Let it sit overnight, then pull it out & look at it. If there's oil on it, as Adam Savage says, "there's your problem". :cool: I gather, that you trust your mechanic, and that's a good thing. I'm not taking anything away from him, but a little self diagnosis goes a long way in the wallet. Hope I didn't step on your toes, just trying to save you some bux.