crazyhorse001

FWD fuse+big wheelspin=smoked transfer cluthces. While the fuse removes line pressure from the clutches, they're still spinning between the plates, wearing the friction material off. Yeah an OB with 4.44 gears will smoke the tires in FWD. An SVX will absolutely burn them down, as a user on the SVXWN found out. Unfortunately they ended up replacing the transfer clutches too. Being as the 4EAT is pretty much the same, with just detail differences in the high gear clutches, one can assume the same things will kill them.

Yet more proof that, while you're married, you can be either right, or happy, but not both. BTW I clebrate 19 years with "She Who Must Be Obeyed" next month, so I've been there!

OK I DARE you to rock THESE!! :lol: :lol:

A member over on http://www.subaruxt.com did this with a hatch.

Yep, that would be phosphoric acid. Check with the "Rat Rod" guys. What looks like primer on thier rides is actually satin black paint. Primer WILL rust through quickly. POR-15 won't, It's not cheap, but it will protect the metal, until you get to painting it.

If it is the Diff, and I doubt it is, unless the LSD itself is hosed, you can get and swap in new gears without much fuss. It's more likely torque bind from any of 3 sources. 1. TPS bad or mis-adjusted 2. Solenoid C troubles 3. Mis-matched tires The rear diff on a SVX is pretty much bullet-proof The AD says it's the transmission differential. That means the front diff. In the SVX the gears are 3.54:1 they're unique in all the 4eat transmissions. A cost effective swap is the 4.44 gears from the Legacy Outback. You can simply swap in the gears, or the whole trans. Just remember that you need the rear diff as well, to swap the gears into the SVX rear carrier.

Had the pilot bearing failed prior to the clutch disc, there would have been a vibration in the car. Not a spill your drink type, but a high frequency, buzz. I agree, the disc cannot move up/down, left/right without failing. My 2bits on the failure is, that as the disc broke it slung around at least once off center, allowing the input shaft to move. This slung the bearings out of the pilot, driving the inner race up on the input shaft. Check your flywheel and input shaft, make SURE the new pilot fits good & snug.

I think, that if the side tank is leaking, you can expect the car to strand you very soon. Bars leaks is good if you have a small leak in the core itself. If the tank is beginning to separate, you can bet it'll finish at the worst possible time. For what they cost, it's in your best interest to go ahead & stick either a new, or good used rad in. I should add that I'm a Ford guy in addition to Subies. Cut me & I still bleed Ford Blue.

Toyota Celica STI anyone? I wonder how this will affect the WRC programs of the two. Can Subaru, and Toyota both be allowed the same powertrain? What I'm looking forward to, is a Boxer/Hybrid Maybe in a Legacy or Outback.

Fine tuning a 2.3 is a lot of carb & dizzy, just like a Subie. I don't have my Haynes manual handy, but I can tell you there's a wide sweet spot in the 2300's timing. If you get it to within a couple degrees snug the dizzy, then drive it. If it spark knocks @ full throttle, back it off until it just quits. If it doesn't knock, advance it till it does, then back it off a bit. When you get it feeling right, tighten the dizzy bolt. Carb tuning, is out of my league. IIRC the '86 has a feedback carb of Holley origin. Have you ever looked in on the guys at http://www.foureyedpride.com ? I'm sure they'll have craploads of help for you on this.

Didn't anyone tell you not to wash your wagon in hot water? That XT6 is just astounding! Now get your butt over to http://www.subaruxt.com & show that baby off!

When the clutch disc "explodes" it will leave a nice grey "fluff" in the bellhousing. Typical wear leaves a black dust. The fluff will be obvious in the bell. My 2bits is on the disc going poof. It'll still feel right, but won't engage. It also makes a gawdawful kabang when it goes.

Well no danger in the Coupe's ever rattling then! Connie, as much $hi+ as you've gone thru with Rocky, it'd be a shame to scrap him. Since the rust isn't unsafe, I say, slap the clutch in, and drive him until it is. Keep the miles off Hollister. I know that you're in the same boat I'm in with my Pinto. I love that car, but it's getting unreliable, and rusty in the bad places. The big difference being that the motor in my Pinto has worn out 2 bodies. Rocky's body has worn out one motor, working on his second. I've agonized over what to do with my Pinto, I've come to the conclusion, that I'm gonna drive my Lil' Darlin until she just flat croaks. Then it's off to the crusher with her. Best wishes on whatever you decide to do, and you'll have my support no matter what.

I'm guessing the sedan/wagon/hatch air struts are very similar to the ones on an XT. That being the case, they're expensive & a dealer only item. IIRC they're in the $375 range. Are they worth it? That's entirely up to you.

Everyone's seen the old school 'Ru-s jumped & flogged. It's amazing to see a 2nd gen Lego flyin high like that. More amazing to see it drive away Just goes to show ya that they DO still build 'em like they used to! BTW I was just gettig ready to post that vid.

For the math deficient...800,000km is 497,000mi. I read the writeup on that Wagon. It's incredible that he uses it to deliver campers. THat's one HARD working car! AND a 4EAT to boot.

The SVX was 35-40k new. That'd translate to 50-55k today. BTW Connie, I think Holly is TEH HOTNESS! Hands down the best looking new Imp I've seen.

That axle grease will burn for a LOOOOOONG time. Most likely a couple months. It's irratating, but not dangerous. If it gets stronger, look at the differential seals, the gear oil smells very similar when it burns. You'll only get this on hard turns tho. My Leggy scared the living crap outta me on The Dragon. She spilled a small amount of gear oil on the cat & SERIOUSLY smoked for a few mins. (missing dipstick)

Thanks 2.5GL I'd have left the switch off. Then I'd have been hosed again

OH FRACK ME LMAO!!! My week has been so bad it's COMICAL! I won't even GO there.

Just like the title says...How do I disable the security system on my '97 Legacy. The battery has gone dead, and she won't take a jump because the dadgum lights are flashing! According to what I've found you have to START the engine to disable the security system. So are you hosed if it won't start?

That would be Frankenwedge, and it's one SWEET piece.

Bring one on down Durania. We call this an Alcyone meet, but It's open to all Subaru fans. I went last year in my Leggy. The prices aren't too bad at $85/ night for a 2br cabin.

That Civic could be cleaned up a little more, aerodynamically, with smoother bodywork. Play with the ECU & some smaller injectors, and that guy is in the hunt for the X-Prize. It'd be snail slow, and still be butt-ugly tho. $10mil for what looks to be a $10k investment?

246k on my all original SVX before the trans crapped out. That may not be a Subie record, but I'd bet it's an SVX trans record!