crazyhorse001

No rust? WOW! Those cars are infamous for having factory installed quarter panel rot! That's a rare bird indeed. And quite the pretty one at that! I guess all those years in the garage are responsible for that. The /6 is like THE toughest motor too!

Lotsa dirty old Subies there....I LOVE IT!

Almost any grease will protect the battery terminals.

My uneducated 2cents worth: The gear selector on most electronic autos is just a series of switches. I'm guessing that you could do a full manual setup by wiring the selector switches to thier respective solenoids. I've seen it done on a Ford AXOD in a SHO Taurus. Granted you'll have to be the E part of the 4Eat. doing ALL the shifting yourself.

If you happen to own a GM with the PassKeyII system, you've likely had a problem with it. When they act up, they can be INFURIATING! Here's how to "go around" the system. 1st off, this really won't work to steal the car, as there are 15 different resistor combos, and you STILL need the key to start the car. BTW this only works with the version that you can see the resistor in the key. Tools/supplies: Resistor(s) of the proper OHM rating, Small buttsplices, wire cutters, crimping tool, Heat shrink tubing. 1. Take your OEM key to Radio Shack. Have them measure the resistance across the "chip" 2. Pick up a pack of resistors that matches the reading you got earlier. This may require 2, or 3 resistors in series to make the exact resistance you need. +-5% Mine required 2. While you're grabbing parts, get a pack of the smallest buttsplices they have. All told you'll get out of there for under $10 3. Under the dash, on the steering column, you'll find a harness in an orange cover. There will be 2 small white wires in it. Trace this to the connector in the dash harness. Unplug the connector. NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR WITH THIS UNPLUGGED! This will strand you for approximately 30 mins while you do the relearn procedure. 4. Here's where it gets scary. Cut the wires that go back up the column leaving approximately 2" attached to the plug. 5. Open the resistors, and buttsplices. Trim the leads on the resistors until they fit into the metal of the splice, but don't leave any lead showing. If neccessary connect all your resistors together first. Then strip back the wire on the plug. Connect one end of the resistor pack to one wire. Slide the heat shrink on, then connect the other end to the other wire. There isn't a right, or wrong way to connect this. It just reads the resistance. Slide the heat shrink up over your connections, and shrink it with your favorite method. I like to use my lighter. 6. Plug the connector back into the dash harness, then start your car. If your resistance is right, enjoy knowing that you can now go to Wal-Mart & get your keys, instead of the stealership, or a locksmith. 7. Finally button up your repair by securing the wires under the dash with a zip-tie. This may help someone else out there with luck like mine.

http://www.mattracks.com/ Old news, but new seeing them on a cool lil Subie!

My Lego had "piston slap" from the day I bought it with 114k. The colder the outside temps, the louder it knocked. It always went away after 5-6 mi. It sounded BAD! It also got $1k "knocked" off the price.:cool:

Subies do NOT leak, they mark thier territory!

First off, my wife would KILL ME! Now, in 20 years when someone pulls that motor to stick into another Subie they'll LOVE seeing her name on the valve covers!

Sounds like you got some free service from the steal...oops I mean dealership.

I never got to that t-stat....Kat chucked a fit on "She Who Must Be Obeyed". The temp shot over to hot, and now she runs only on 3cyl. She got Kat to the house, with a plume of steam trailing her. DADGUMMIT & it's SNOWING here too.

We got some snow here in east TN. Unfortunately None of my Subies are up to going out to play I did get to play in my Pinto tho....RWD FTW!

The rears are OVERDRIVEN by 1.7%? What kind of unobtanium are those clutches made of?

My SVX is the first car I've bought online. Fortunately I bought it from someone I've known, online, for 3 years. Buying a car through the interwebs entails some risks. I was sure the car I was buying was "as advertised". I bought it without a test drive, and wasn't disappointed. (yeah, stupid I know) From someone who's selling history I don't know... I'd be all over the car before purchasing it. If ANYTHING didn't meet my expectations, no way my money leaves my hands. Buying online is the ULTIMATE expression of Caveat Emptor.

I'm wondering how Acura's (Honda) SH-AWD would do in that test? It's supposed to be able to send full torque to one wheel.

Pop the A/C belt off... Cut the belt open...Wrap it around the crank... PULL LIKE H*LL. I've started a Mustang II that way.

I know it's not a Subie, but my Pinto's tags say KBOOM. If I get one for my SVX it'll read JOYOSVX

When Subaru was looking into front wheel drive, the engineers got thier hands on a VW and drove it backwards thru the mountains of Japan! To see just exactly what info a driver truly needed, they gutted the dash of a car & drove it in Tokyo traffic. Paraphrased from the Road & Track guide to the SVX

A Carfax report will give you a best guess of mileage. If the owner wrote down the mileage when he changed clusters, it should just be simple addition, or subtraction. If you trust them.

Really? I used Castrol Super Clean on my dash in my Pinto, with out any ill effects. Of course, if the dash is spray dyed, or the degreaser is allowed to sit there, it'll bleach it. When you get the antifreeze off the glass, there'll be nasty sreaks of degreaser left behind, that Windex will take off. Just use the windex on the dash afterward to be sure no degreaser is left behind.

Any REALLY good degreaser, like Castrol Super Clean, Simple Green, or Purple Power, should get it clean. Short of that....Coca Cola:eek: will do it too.

This would be a weekend job, would they chuck a fit over that? Assuming of course, you don't make a mess. If you want, I can do some checking on another forum, I know of a guy in Jersey. He's DANG good, reasonable, AND a Subie fan. He'll also likely have the parts you'll need, used but tested good.

The Duty C is inside the tail extension housing. IIRC the housing can be removed without removing anything except the driveshaft. It's fairly easily replaced once this housing removed. While you're in there, you can check that line to the solenoid that was mentioned in a previous post. Before going to these lengths I'd try to make sure the AWD is truly not working. Have you had the car off the ground? With the car off the ground, idling in drive, you should have some drive at both ends. This is an easy test of the AWD. You seem pretty car savvy, this isn't a difficult fix, no matter the trouble. The tranny doesn't have to come out, even if the transfer clutch is totally shot. I think that's pretty unlikley though. You've checked everything else, TCU FWD fuse, even wired the Duty C to a switch. The only two components left are the solenoid, and clutch.

That certainly looks like an Iron block to me. Kudos to Subaru for getting back to thier rugged roots!

Diesels operate at incredible cylinder pressures & temps. Simply sleeving an existing block, especially an aluminum one, wouldn't handle the stresses. Just ask Oldsmobile.