crazyhorse001

Federal brand, off ebay. $200ish for a set of 4 Awesome wet, and dry traction. So far decent treadwear for performance rubber Size 185/60

My ex told me that if i buy another subaru she was gone...i dont miss her one bit! My current wife feeds the addiction lol

So I had a fwd turbo XT follow me home, on a trailer I think i have a handle on reviving it, but welcome additional help. Especially since its a turbo. 1st, i'm gonna disable the fuel pump. Trying to keep from getting trash into the fuel system. Next I plan on cranking the engine to see if it builds oil pressure. if that checks out, I will fire it with carb cleaner sprayed after the maf, but before the turbo. Once I know it will fire, I'll start on the fuel system, cleaning it out. Like i said, I think I have a handle on this, but anyone with better ideas, i'm all ears Crappy pic for attention lol

You can do an operator fix for this without hurting any feelings. Just ask your passenger to check thier door to see that its locked. After a few times having to re-lock the door they'll do it automatically. Much easier to modify the operator, than the machine in this case

Your shifting issue and to a lesser extent the power issue sounds to be throttle position sensor (tps) related. I'm not sure of the setting procedure on a legacy, so hopefully someone will chime in. I do know to check one an analog meter works better than a digital. Checking for smooth transition of resistance thru the travel of the sensor. I'm glad you found the timing tensioner issues at home. Thats always a bear to have happen on the road!

Yep and it will do that for about 200-300mi, then 3rd gear will evaporate....can ya tell i've been there, and proudly wear the t-shirt? Lol

The trans will plug and play. You will have to make sure the final drive (differential) ratio is the same as the rear though. There is a sticker tag near the starter. You can google the numbers on it, and get the info you need. If its a different ratio you will need to get the rear diff too.

Typical failure is a loss of 3rd and 4th gear. It will still go under its own power up to 50mph. If the cooling system is good, a 50-75mi trip on side roads should be doable.

87 is a split year. Before 1/87 is the same as 86. After that its the same as 88.

87 is a split year. Before 1/87 is the same as 86. After that its the same as 88.

At the end of the day, I would like a decent riding, and handling daily driver. With ea "powah" and reliability it will be a sports car in the Lotus tradition. Not long on power, but agile enough that it doesnt matter

If all else fails, remove the rear of the driveshaft from the differential. Tie the shaft to the exhaust, then you can tow it on a dolly.

Ignitor. You'll get spark once, then not again till you cycle the key off/on again.

There wont be any "bolt on" solutions for you. I have an 87.5 xt gl with the same motor. Doing a short ram will do more harm than good, as it will suck in hot underhood air. The stock system has a cold air tube in the fender. If you want the growl, replace the plastic from the maf to the intake. Don't forget to plumb in the pcv lines, or your subie will mark its territory in oil everywhere you go

Ignitor. You'll get spark once, then not again till key off/on ycle.

No shift, and no speedometer are for sure a bad vss. Most likely the one you think it is. That one drives the speedo. The other is for the awd system. You may get lucky, and it just be the sheetmetal drive tab.

I'd at least get it running before going in too deep. If it has a bad bottom end, you'll wanna know before forking out for gaskets twice

Good catch! I'm always happy to see an xt saved

Right off the bat DRAIN THE TANK!! Then new fuel filters 3of them. Take the lines off and blow air backwards thru them. Next up a full tuneup plugs wires cap rotor the works. Pull the carb, do a basic cleanup with carb cleaner and compressed air. Put everything back together and try it out. It should at least fire and try to run. From there its a matter of tinkering and tuning. After it runs a bit change the fuel filter. Keep the last one with you as you start driving it, just in case.

I have copd, and had similar issues with a beloved impreza wagon. Mine was a flood victim. I finally had to sell the car due to mold in the heater box. I tried all the "smell buster" products, and even bleaching the heat/ac coils. None of which helped me from coughing uncontrollably in that car. Things to try... the smell buster products, have the dealer clean the heat/ac coils with cleaner. Replace the cabin filter with a hepa filter.

Could be a dying alt or a bad battery connection. Both gave me drivablity issues on my xt4 n/a. It would stall and sputter. A bad battery took out my alternator.

So, i did this finally. Borrowed a trailer from a friend. Strapped the car down by the tie down loop, and jacked at the crossmember. The results werent too bad. Before and after pics

If you have an EJ with an ea trans you will have an adapter plate between the engine and trans. If you have the ej trans, it will have a sticker on the left near the starter. Google the numbers on the sticker. The. You'll know model year and ratio of the trans. It's not rocket surgery or brain science, it just subies.

I would think the squeeze clamps at the bulb holder would be the best place to tap in. I would run a fused hot wire, and a relay to run fogs tho. They're liable to pop the reverse light fuse othherwise.

Unless something broke, like the input shaft, or the clutch disc itself, I'm not sure what would cause this. You're positive its going into the gears. And the car will roll with the e-brake off?