crazyhorse001

Mechanic's stethescope is your friend. If you get knock at the head, lifter tick. It will be annoying, but not harmful. searching tick of death (tod) you should find some cures If its in the block, rod knock. Still annoying, but driveable till it lets go. Could be a day, week, or a year

I ask about offset chux because i can measure a 15" 5x100 wheel i have off the car, but at the moment, i dont have a 4x140 off the car. I'll throw a tape on both this weekend, and report back. Mainly, i'm trying to decide if im gonna redrill to 6x140, 5x100 or 4x100. 5x100 sounds good, but getting lugs to not interfere with one another could be a challenge. 4x100 sounds good because cheap honda rims lol. 6x140 sounds good for being easier, and more sure wheel centering.

Hmmm nobody has used 6lug to do low profile tires? Ok then, is the offset on the 4x140 the same as the 5x100?

+1 the engine out is THE way to go. You can have an ea motor ready to pull in a couple hours your first time. After a few, you can have one out in an hour. I would think if you pull the rad the engine wouldnt even have to leave the car. You need like 8-10" of room to change a clutch

I know a lot of us redrill to get bigger tires for offroading. I'm wondering if anyone has done this to get a more onroad performance type tire? I need to get the puny 13" wheels off my 87.5 XT GL. The main question i have is, how big in overall diameter/width can i go? I see some nice gm/toyota 17"&18" wheels out there for decent money. I know with 18"s i'd end up with like 30-35 series tires, but im ok with that. I also know from my FWD xt6 that 205/55-16 is at the max, but thats a different animal altogether. If anyone can help me out before i spend big $$$ on r&d I'd appreciate it!

My fwd 6 does this sometimes. Not hot enough to worry, but just plain odd. Check the lighter fuse, it feeds the a/c fan relay. Not sure why it helped mine, but it did. Both fans worked, but the a/c wouldnt. Replaced that fuse, and it was cool, and happy again with frosty a/c. This 6 has never had what you'd call hot heat tho

You can give the ea a "man-eating" bark. You dont even have to break the bank to do it. You can't make it sound like a wrx tho. Most if not all ea heads are single port exhaust. Ej heads are mix and match depending on year and model. To give your ea that deep bark, you need big pipes. I like 2.5" its easier to package under the car. It does help to hollow out the catalytic converter, but some states frown on that so use your judgement there. From the cat run maybe 1ft of 2.5 to a good ol glasspack muffler. Then more 2.5 all the way out the back to a quality resonator tip. If that system starts to annoy you on the highway, you can add a quality magnaflow, flowmaster or whatever brand muffler in the stock location. The key here is use quality mufflers, cheap ones sound cheap.

Grossgary is dead on, as usual. The old addage is speed costs money...how fast ya wanna go? Whats the dyno record for an ea82t anyway? Im pretty sure wjm hit the highest, just not sure how high he got, and i KNOW he had cubic dollars in education doing it.

Honestly, if you want a faster car, find one. I love my ea82 powered xt for its gas mileage (40ish) My xt6 for being able to explore its limits at sane(ish) speeds And my svx for when i absolutely wanna be there yesterday *evil grin* Subaru made fast cars. When you can find them resonable, why spend 2x the cash to go somewhat faster. I cant imagine my xt gl with a high strung turbo motor in it. The chassis would hate it. The 6 could handle probably 250hp without chassis mods. The svx is almost perfect out of the box. For what you'd spend on an ea82t swap, you could have a nice leggy gt, or impreza 2.5 rs, and keep ol' reliable ea for the daily grind

The easiest hg test in the world. When its up to temp watch for bubbles in the overflow tank. Sniff the bubbles. If it smells like exhaust, yep, yer head gaskets are gone.

The oil was clean, and good before he worked on it. After it had water in the oil. If the milkshake doesnt return, and YOU PERSOALNALLY check it to verify it doesnt, then he owes you for the oil changes, and is on the hook in case of a failure in the next 6 months or so. Any decent mechanic would reimburse you for your time and trouble if you can show him he messed up. Others you may have to have a friend in the legal profession write them a nasty letter.

+1 a '00 cluster shouldnt physically fit in a '99. A '99 would have the old school rollover odometer, a '00 would have an lcd Dunno if it makes a difference, a 99 has a phase 2 4eat trans, and may have a different layout electrically than a 95-98 cluster.

After the cat. I never recommend anyone hollow, or remove a catalytic converter. Mostly cause i dont know where they live, or what hoops the have to jump thru to get inspections, or registrations. Where i live, its no holds barred on the exhaust. We dont have safety, or emissions to pass. I know its tough in some places, so i leave that up to whoever is doing the mods. That said, all my current cars are "emissions legal" in most areas...visually anyway

+1 on drill from the back side. You can drill with a smaller bit, and hope it catches, that will drive it out. Otherwise, go up in size to just inside the threads. Then clean the threads with a tap. Use some antisieze going back together. Try to help out the poor schmoe who will hafta do it next time, cuz it'll probably be YOU!

Subie growl is easy to get. A glasspack right behind the cat, and a decent muffler in the stock location. Some 2" pipe between them, and a 2.5" resonator tip. Nothing expensive or exotic required

If you get a donor thats obdII then doing an obdII swap would be only somewhat more complicated than an obdI setup would be.

For my money ej is the way to go. Even an ej18 would be more power than an ea82t. Loyales do handle well with the extra power, but pay attention to the rust. Extra torque can twist up a rusty car. Ea82t's arent known for huge power or reliability, especially when built. Those engines are designed with razor thin margins. Cooling, head gaskets, and many other things will fail on a regular basis. Ej's are rock solid reliable. They make as much power as a built ea, and wont break near as much. The wiring harness is a PITA to sort out, yes, but once sorted, should be way easier to deal with, especially if you go for an obdII setup. Not trying to push you away from doing your thing your way. Just giving you a heads up as to what to expect.

Sounds like your struts may be gathering ice. If they dont have the boots over the piston rod, this could be rough on them, as the cold stuff becomes the bump stops. If ice gets packed in the springs, that'll do the same thing. The main thing to remember in sub zero weather is a short warm up is a good thing. 5mins is a good time frame. More is wasting gas, less can cause extra stress on things in the motor. Also, with a manual trans remember the oil is super thick, so dont force the shifter, you can bend things. Be paitent with your subie, remember its colder than you are, unless it lives in a cozy garage. Take it easy for the first few miles, and let it warm up.

Check your trans mounts. These can move around causing just the noise you describe. If its weak, they're like $38 + shipping on rockauto. Theyre pretty easy to change. Just support the trans with a jack, and unbolt. To answer the ? About mpg he likely gets 32-35 mpg depending on how he drives it. I had a ej18 5spd awd 'preza wagon that ran 30mpg like clockwork with over 275,000mi on it

All good info above. The big tell would be the distributor location. Easiest to see without looking very deep. Ive had ea81, and 82's myself. I like the set and forget of the injected 82motors, especially for a daily driver. Tho for tractor torque, and being nearly bulletproof, you cant beat the hammer simple 81 motors

Black residue on the plugs...wet, oily residue, or dry powdery? Did they smell of gas? Wet, oily on the plugs that doesnt smell of gas indicates you're getting oil in the cylinder. If it smells like gas, youre running rich. A big telltale is the smoke out the exhaust. Its the same deal as the plugs. It will either smell like oil, or gas. Just about all the above posts have really good info. Follow up on those, and get back with us so we can continue to help you out.

If you dont mind bleeding ears, and excessive noise tickets, i dont see an issue. Your engine wont like not having much back pressure, but for a short time it "shouldnt" do any damage. For the cost of a muffler, some flex pipe, and a few clamps, you can redneck engineer an exhaust that will keep the local po-po and your ears happy. On the plus side, you can re-use the muffler when you get a proper system installed. Your other choice is to hit up the impreza forums and buy a take off from someone who installed a catback system

Fwd svx is 4 port large diameter, and should fit with a little modification.

The 12v+ isnt connected to a full time wire. You need a wire that's hot all the time

You should be ok for a temp fix, as long as the oil cant blow out