crazyhorse001

No auto ea cars on cl right now. I may be able to hit up a buddy to see if he knows of any. That said search "subaru, by owner, on asheville nc craigslist. Save the ads and show your seller all the $1000, and under loyales

Im not far from you, and i can buy clean ea subies all day for under $2000. I doubt the dealer would take $2000. He figures if you dont buy it someone else would. If you have cash, craigslist is your friend. If not, and youre doing a buy here pay here, then beware. Unless you HAVE to have a car NOW, and have very little cash, its a BAD idea. You pay 3-4 times the value of the car plus super hi interest.

When you drive it, go at least 20mi. Then do tight figure 8s torque bind in a manual doesnt show up until the trans is warmed up.

01 Legacy is high compatibility with almost every other 99-04 subaru. If you prefer the forrester the entire drivetrain will be the same. If you stick with a legacy, you'll have 95-99% interchangability. The only model that isnt would be the tribeca.

I like the way Porsche separates the fuel/electric systems. Using electric to drive otherwise undriven wheels is the way to go efficency wise. GMC showed a hybrid pickup several years ago that used the electrics in a novel way. It had 2 motors like the 918, but had one wrappedaround the rear driveshaft, the other driving the front wheels thru the front diff. I'm not sure why that never made the cut for production. It makes sense in a pickup.

Maybe i'm just plain odd for thinking this but NO car is going to be good on glare ice. A subtle crosswind can change the path of the most surefooted vehicle in those conditions. The newer outbacks are substantially bigger than the old ones. This could be creating a sail effect. I'm not discounting mechanical causes on some older cars, but the earlier poster with a brand new car shouldnt have this kind of issue IF the wind isnt blowing. Ive driven all manner of subies up to the 2000 models, in all manner of conditions. On ice, none were great. I had to slow down a lot. It really sounds like an overconfidence issue to me. 60kph is too fast on ice unless you're in a tracked vehicle, or have chains on.

Hands down the BEST hybrid in production right now is the Porsche 918 spyder. Beauty, brains, and brawn in one super sweet package. That said, for my dollars, I'd have a Chevy Volt. My daily commute is about 30mi round trip, so I'd never need fuel. Though it would be nice to know i have the range to drive it anywhere i needed to go. In my mind series hybrid is the way to go. Pure electric drive with a gas backup generator is much easier to deal with than integrated motor assist. Its easier to package, and easier to work on. I just dont understand why it needs such a large engine to do what it does. I would think a smaller 2, or 3 cyl would get the job done.

The brz isnt supposed to be a musclecar. Its nearest competitor is the mazda miata. I agree though, a "sti" model is in order. Maybe not up to wrx performance, but turbo'd so the tuners can have thier way with it. I doubt wrx sti shoppers would be into the brz because of its tiny back seat. Toyota in recent years hasnt been into "excitement". I doubt they allow subaru to outshine them in that department. Since thier aquiring our beloved brand, i've noticed subarus going completely mainstream (read boring) the last thind our brand needs is a rebadged Camry carrying the Legacy name.

I can see the water crossover being different. It has to feed coolant to the turbo.

i think, but could be wrong, an n/a spider is the same part as a turbo, so someone was blowing smoke!

Sounds like the resistor pack is gone bad on you. As a temporary measure you can pull a fused wire directly to the motor from the battert. That will get your fan running on hi till you can source a resistor pack. Also it sounds like the doors in the control box arent working properly. Thats gonna require pulling stuff apart.

There are a LOT of good outback bodies on CL in our area, im always on the prowl for them. I live in greeneville tn, so we're close. Why not find a decent body for your powertrain? Keep it and use it to keep another one on the road for yourself.

I can chime in a little from experience on my xt6's. With 16x6" legacy gt wheels, I'm running 205/55 tires. There is maybe 1/8" between the tire, and the front strut, and about 1/16" between the rear tire, and the swingarm. This is a fwd xt6 on completely stock suspension. I"m at the absolute maximum tire size for this car without mods. If you use wheel adaptors, you'll gain width room, but not height. The limiting factor is the spring perch on the front strut. It wont change, even with a lift. For me the absolute best way to change the bolt pattern is to convert to 5x100 with ej, and xt6 parts. Short of that, redrilling tge hubs for 6 lug is the next best solution.

When you clean the terminals in a plug, you should put a dab of dielectric grease on them to protect against new corrosion. It will also stop current corrosion from progressing. Our robots at work always get this whenever we disconnect a plug. We have a nice spray can of grease, i'll get the name brand when i go back monday. Its not cheap, but what insurance is lol I'm still blown away at your diagnostic efforts, they're absolutely herculean! Awesome info in this thread

One person's hacking is another ones sweet custom. Thats something i learned in the scale model car world. Some designs are considered "iconic" and people feel like they shouldnt be messed with. For me, I am SOOOO digging this build. Its out of the box, without being completely over the top. Besides, is sooooo Texas! Bravo! Oh, and it sooo deserves a boxer diesel lol

If you have one hot hose, and one not so hot, yep the heater core is plugged. You may be able to put a SMALL amount of drain cleaner(like maybe a cup) in the hose. Take both off at the engine, raise the ends as high as you can, put the cleaner in, then fill the hoses with water. I reccomend CLR brand to clean it with. Let it sit an hour or so, then flush the core with water. The CLR isnt as harsh as the other stuff. Hopefully you're not undoing a previous repair with a stop leak. I'd try this before having to take the dash apart to change the heater core.

I dont have one to look at, but you should be able to poke your head down under the dash while someone moves it from hot to cold and back. You should see levers moving when you do. If you cant see the levers, im not sure where to tell you to look. Maybe one of the gurus can help out with pics or scans from the service manual.

I love the artwork! If you used the original rear window you'd have a mighty short box on your ute though Maybe use a leone/loyale wagon hatch instead.

DO NOT RUN SEAFOM AS AN OIL ADDITIVE! You CAN however, add it to the oil, IDLE the engine for a very few mins, then change the oil, and filter immediately after. If i do this i will do a second oil/filter change within 500 mi to get the rest of the seafoam out. Prolonged use of seafoam is bad juju. Using it for a short time will flush the passages, and other things. It CAN push gunk into the lifters too, clogging them up. If your engine is sludged up badly, it really needs to be pulled apart and cleaned. Adding it to the fuel system will clean up the varnish in a system thats been sitting for years. Been there done that a couple times. It even freed up varnished, stuck injectors in a field find Xt6 i had. I really cant see an advantage to the age old method of letting a vacuum line suck it straight from the can tho.

Carpet padding from your local home improvement store. Its cheap, light, and easy to install with plain spray glue. Granted dynamat works better, but its fairly weighty stuff. Justys arent known for power, and id think liberal use of it would hurt performance, and mpg's significantly.

Nope, no valve from the factory. First, you need to check the heater core for a blockage. Thats super simple. Get the car up to temp, and check the heater hoses. If they are both the same temp, the core is good. If not mark the cold one, and flush it thru that side with the garden hose. If the core is good, then the blend door may not be opening. That may just be a cable adjustment. If the fan isnt working, then it may be the switch, or the resistor pack. The heater on the ea cars is pretty basic.

Oh yeah, there is a reader, but its a professional unit that costs around $1500. It'll repeat the codes if you miss one. Are you SURE the smoke is coming from the rear diff, not from oil leaked onto the exhaust pipe? Axle seals are pretty cheap, and really not that hard to do yourself. +1 on checking the fluid level, and topping it off. A limited slip would have gotten hot, and maybe "puked" a little fluid from mismatched tires. An open diff wouldnt have cared. What codes do you get from the trans? If you didnt drive more than 100 mi or so, you shouldnt have dome permanent damage.

Yank the driveshaft from the rear diff. Like 4 bolts. Then hang it with a clothes hanger, or pull it and chuck it inside. Thats only if you really give a crap about the yard being able to sell the trans later

Doesnt the 91 have a 4eat? Sounds like the 4wd isnt disengaging

Sounds like a clogged catalytic converter, or exhaust pipe problem to me, especially if its not lighting the engine light