crazyhorse001

Yes, math will help, as will physics. It helps to understand how objects interact. Some basic electronics courses would help as well, as cars are becoming robots very rapidly. You have to try to stay ahead of technology to be a good all around technician. If you intend to open your own garage, then some business courses will help. I work as a robotics technician in a factory. So staying up on the latest and greatest is in my best interest.

When it "smokes" place your hand in the cloud near the tailpipe. You can tell a lot about the condition of a engine by the smell of the exhaust. Slight fuel, oil smell, white smoke that wets your hand is perfectly normal Strong fuel smell, running rich Sweet maple syrup type smell, antifreeze. On an ea that would more likeley be an intake gasket. Not a hard fix Burnt oil, valve guides, keep tabs on oil use, if its excessve, like more than 2qts per change, you may look at doing these Burnt oil, that doesnt smell like motor oil, trans fluid. Check the vacuum modulator, only on 3at

Yep, most cars/trucks 1995 and up are obd2

If you're serious, this "can" be done, but be prepared, its gonna be a long road. Especially if you're hiring the work, it'll be EXPENSIVE too If you can do ALL the work yourself, you'll save cubic dollars. But most people dont have a machine shop and body shop of thier own. Finally if you set out to do this PLAN YOUR BUILD, AND BUILD YOUR PLAN. Too many times i've seen cool projects tossed out for poor planning, or major mid build changes.

It looks.like a direct hit straight up. It didnt bend the rad support back. It went straight up. I didnt realize it was even bent till i tried to line the hood back up. It hadda be a REALLY slow hit. Just the support took all the engine weight. Tip for the day, narcolepsy, and driving dont mix!

Get the car up to operating temp, and check the heater hoses. If one is hot, the other not, chancrs are its a blocked heater core. If tgeyre both hot, then your blend door isnt working. Meaning its not actually turning the heat on. If one is cold, mark the cold one, then take the hoses off and flush water in thru the marked one with your water hose. This can sometimes unblock a stopped up heater core. Also check the radiator hoses. If one is hot, the other cold, you have a bad t-stat. Yep that new t-stat. Subarus dont like aftermarket t-stats. If you suspect an air bubble. Park the nose uphill, on ramps, or jack it up before filling it with water.

He means the solenoid is attached to the rear cover. Its a bit heavy, so dont drop it because the wires are attached to it.

Weld some 2x4 tubing where the rockers were. As long as the rust doesnt go up into the firewall area, that'll add more than factory strength back to the body, and give you some heavy duty rock sliders.

Ive seen it in person a few years ago. Back then it was one of the sharpest XT's around, along with one of the quickest

Yep http://www.indysworld.com/decals/

Sounds a LOT like a starter. If the engine is locked up you can tell pretty quick by grabbing the belts and trying to turn the engine over by them. That is unless you have i think a 24mm socket and ratchet handy.

Pics will come tomorrow. The bumper is like 1" higher on one side. I know i hafta "spring" it a few degrees past level to make up for it trying to spring back. I was thinking a 4x4" post and a ratchet strap, or come along. Jack the car up with the 4x4, then wrap the strap around it to pull it down

Nope you shouldnt have to pull the whole trans out. The exhaust, and driveshaft yes. Then remove the back cover. The solenoid will be the only one in there. Watch the wires going back together, as they are easy to pinch when you put the cover back on.

Hmm nobody has had to pull a corner down on thier car? All the damage is ahead of the crossmember, so its a simple pull. I just wonder how i can do it without having a means to chain it to the ground?

Welcome Tony! Im sure your weath of knowledge will be a huge benefit here. I remember your legendary mid engine svx, and 10,000 rpm eg33 threads from the svx boards. Guys, this is a true subaru guru!

The thing i like to say is, you can make your payments to a bank with a new car, or to a mechanic with a used one. With a new car, you know when the payments come due. On a used one they usually suprise you. If youre the type who can keep a small stash of money, then used may be the way to go. That way the suprises dont hurt as much.

FWIW, EJ drums are all bigger than any EA one....so you'll still need to swap backing plates and such. Might as well go discs Thanks chux! That gives me a good place to start. I have a fwd xt6 to measure, and i'll dig around for fwd ej stuffs. As for going rear disk, id probably have to in order to have an e-brake (5spd ftw!) Anyone with a fwd ej wanna help a fella out with some good measurements?

I think grossgary has made some at one time. Not positive though. All of mine have had them on there when i got them.

I actually have a full ej front end kicking around, minus struts. Im not above reaming out the lower control arms for the ej ball joints. What are the shortest ej struts? My issue is the rear. Anyone done the swap using other than like i said UBER rare xt6 fwd stuff. Btw i have rear drums.

Am i limited to uber rare xt6 fwd stuff, or can i use lego/impreza fwd drums

If you have a flashing power light you have trans issues. You need to read the trans codes too. Do a search for that. The key is the lurch, its not downshifting properly. A tps not set right will do this. Next time it bogs try this. Let up, then "punch" the gas. If the power light comes on, and the revs jump up, you can bet the tps has the "dead spot". They get one around 45-60 mph, as thats where the pedal rides at cruising speeds. Dont overthink it. If yoh have a cel, for the tps, and a flashing power light, that comes back to the same thing, you have either a bad tps, or bad wiring to it.

I pull the balljoint out of the knuckle. I remove the bolt then tap a small chisel into the slot behind the bolt. Pry with a bar, and a few taps with a hammer frees it up. Going back in can be tricky to get the stud lined up. Generally i pry down on the lca while lining it up, using my pry bar. Once it starts in, few taps from the bottom will seat it. The axle pins are best driven from the side that isnt beveled. I use a 3/16 t handle allen wrench as a punch.

I always like it when its simple. Never kick yourself for being tired. At least you were able to get her going again. 75% of the people would never have had a clue, and paid big bux to get it towed/fixed. Glad we could help

The xt i just bought had been in a ditch before i got it. It bent the radiator support up about an inch. I dont have a concrete pad to work from, so how can i straighten the front end? I know you offroad guys will have some creative solutions for me

Generally a sudden shutdown is electrical. Check fusible links, and fuses first. After that, start checking for spark. A fuel issue would have sputtered to a stop. Its possible a connector in the ignition system came loose. Maybe even as simple as the coil wire to the distributor.