Ginger48

One more item.....run narrow tires like 165/80R13. Narrow tires have less rolling resistance than wide tires.

Advance your timing until it pings under load at full throttle at low RPM's, then back it off about 2 degrees. Inflate your tires to 40 PSI but only if you don't live on a rocky dirt road. Rocks are very hard on tires that are over inflated. Many websites advocate inflating as high as 50-55 psi but I personally don't recommend it. Rejet your carburetor -10% to -20% on the primaries (total jet area) Watch your spark plug color when rejetting. Don't let the color get any lighter than a very light tan or off white. You don't want a melt down by going too lean. Drill out the primary air bleed to 0.002" larger than stock. Purchase and install a brass float. They are available from Advance Auto Parts. Drive like there's an egg between your foot and the gas pedal. Keep your highway speed under 60mph. If you do the above and your engine is in good condition, you'll see 40+ mpg highway.

NAPA has two different distributor bushings listed on their website for carbed 1985 EA82's. Part numbers DP107, and DP108. $6.69, and $5.49.

I’m not knocking SeaFoam......Roll yer own. It couldn’t be simpler! I’d be shocked if you couldn’t make it for way under a dollar a pint. When I get a chance, I’ll run down to Wally World and see what it can really be made for. BTW, Pale Oil is non detergent oil. Like I said, Nothing Special

Per Sea Foam’s MSDS: Pale Oil - 40 to 60% Naphtha - 25 to 35% IPA - 10 to 20% Pale Oil - A petroleum lubricating or process oil refined until its color (measured by transmitted light) is straw to pale yellow. Naphtha - Coleman Fuel IPA - Isopropyl Alcohol or commonly known as Rubbing Alcohol Folks, there ain't nothing special about this stuff!!!!!

Frantz received FAA approval back in the 1970's, the United States military uses them (doesn't drain oil), and I never had a problem due to lack of lubrication in 40 years and over 900,000 miles. You can't argue with success AND oil analysis results.

I NEVER change my oil, just the full flow oil filter and the Frantz oil filter. The Frantz filters have worked for me for over 40 years and saved me a lot of oil. My oil is always clean so my engines stay clean on the inside.

Tracks would be neat to try.....but it's amazing what a Subaru will do when chained up on all four. The only problem then is ground clearance.

Farm diesel....no taxes!

The most important change you need to make when using LPG or CNG (compressed natural gas) is regapping your spark plugs to 0.025" due to the fact that they are dry gasses. This is very necessary for easier starting. You will experience a slight loss of power when using these fuels unless you install high compression pistons. These fuels run GREAT with compression ratios up to 14:1. Engine oil stays clean much longer too.

Hill holders are easy to repair....just replace the o-rings inside. Just make sure you use o-rings that are compatible with brake fluid. If I remember right, Viton o-rings are what I used 8 years ago and still not leaking. EDIT: Just checked...Do NOT use Viton. Viton isn't compatible with brake fluid. I used EPDM o-rings as it is compatible with brake fluid.

GD, you remind me of what the naysayers were saying back in the 1960's and 1970's about the Rochester Quadrajet carburetor. Most performance minded people were talked (sold a bill of goods by the “experts”) into replacing their “complex” Q-Jet carbs with a simple easy to work on spread bore Holly carburetor. What is now well known now, 35-40 years later, the Quadrajet is one of the best carburetors ever built for dependability AND performance (yes, feedback and non feedback on them too). It is also now well known that Hollys are not dependable due to fuel leakage from around the fuel bowls and easily blown power valves. The only time I’ve ever seen where the Hitachi's need a complete rebuild is when sour gas is left in them for an extended time, and this also applies to all carburetors and fuel injection also. It’s been admitted many times here that the Weber does not give any more horsepower over the Hitachi, just better initial throttle response. I’ve been working on Subaru’s for the last 27 years and wrenching for 44 years so I just MIGHT know what I’m talking about. No, I don’t post very much and I seldom visit this forum. I have more important things to do. Number of posts not length to time for being a member does NOT make an expert.

Will Rogers once said, "Never argue with a fool because after a while you can't tell which one is the fool. "Crapper (GD) just won't admit he’s wrong or caught or that he really doesn't know what he’s talking about. Instead, he argues and attempts to put others down. I’ve caught him many times spouting ridiculous, absurd “facts”. It’s better to just let it slide. He has many friends that will stick up for him that are as stupid as he is. He thinks he owns this forum.

All that proves is you have a big mouth and are a "know it all".....NOT!

It's true that high temperatures will raise the air pressure in tires, however, running higher pressures than normal decreases tire squirm and flexing thus causing the tires to run cooler with LESS increase in tire pressure.

About the only things that ever go wrong with the Hitachi carb as long as you always use a good air filter is the 1. Electric choke (very seldom) 2. Accelerator pump (common but easy to replace) 3. Plastic oem float absorbs gasoline and gets heavy raising the fuel level in the bowl thus causing the engine to run rich. Easy to replace. Some parts stores carry brass replacement floats that last forever. (seldom a problem) 4. Inlet needle valve doesn't totally shut off the fuel from entering the bowl. Usually when this happens, excessive amounts of gasoline will flood the engine. This is easy to replace. (Seldom a problem)

NAPA has brushes for around $3-5.00/set. If you need a regulator, get it from Autozone - About $13.00. NAPA gets around $75.00 for their regulators. Regulators must be soldered in so you need soldering skills for that. If you've been into alternators before, they are all similar.

It's true that 45 psi can be dangerous IF your tires aren't in good condition, however, I have been running a minimum of 40 psi for the last 3 years with NO problems. The ride is rougher but it does decrease rolling resistance. Experienced tire men will tell you off the record that 40 to 45 psi is safe. Traction is decreased however due to less footprint. On the website Hypermiling at http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/articles/t-beating-the-epa-the-whys-and-how-to-hypermile-1510.html they suggest inflating tires to over 50 psi.

The narrower the tires are, the less rolling resistance there is. Series 80 tires has much less rolling resistance than 70's. Also run 40 to 45 PSI in them. Drive with a VERY light foot. Keep speeds below 60 mph. Also set your initial timing as high as you can, up to 14 degrees BTDC. IF you do all of this, you will see 38+ mpg with a stock carbureted 5 speed 4x4 EA82.

It's my understanding proportioning valves are only used with rear servo type drum brakes. Loyals use non-servo brakes so there shouldn't be any proportioning valves on them. Non-servo type brakes do not have the stopping power that servo type has. When the automobile manufacturers started installing disk brakes on the front, with the servo-type rear brakes, they used proportioning valves to keep the rear brakes from locking up prematurely. Later, the manufacturers redisigned the rear brakes to non-servos so they could eliminate the proportioning valve.

EBay item #180160110316 http://cgi.ebay.com/MOULDE-CAR-CARPET-TO-FIT-SUBARU-LEONE-4WD-BRUMBY-UTE_W0QQitemZ180160110316QQihZ008QQcategoryZ50142QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If it too rich, you'll be getting black smoke out of the tailpipe. Rev the engine up to 2500 to 3000 RPM and then slightly close the choke by hand. If the engine increases RPM, it's too lean.

The problem with purchasing a "rebuilt" is most of the time they install Chinese bearings. If you just repack the original Japinese bearings during your own rebuild, your rebuild will last many times longer than the comercially rebuilt unit. Chinese bearings are pure JUNK. If you don't believe it, phone any industrial bearing supplier and ask them.

I don't think you'll find anything wrong with the distributor. American high performance cars in the late 1950's through the early 1960's never had vacuum advance from the factory. They only had centrifugal advance. However if the vacuum advance diaphragm is bad, that would create a vacuum leak but I think you are looking for a larger leak.

It's your voltage regulator inside the alternator. They are about $13.00 at Autozone. To replace it, you'll have to unsolder the old one and solder in the new one. It's not hard if you can solder.