geekmonster

fuses were all good. i'll have to have my friend check it since i live 200+ miles from where the car is at. i really think that the ecu is no longer working since we are getting no fuel or spark. hopefully my friend can find a ecu at the junkyard.

my friend used my account to post this, so i guess he gets the honor of picking up a new ecu. as far as the lights go, i am getting the charge light, etc, but as far as the pump goes, its weird to me why it didn't work when we jumped it. the pump looks to be the original and to be a royal pain in the rump roast to take out if need be. by this i mean that all the bolts holding it in are rusted to hell. there is some corrosion on the terminals as well, so we'll need to clean those up. i'll probably have to get my friend to go out to the junk yard to get a new ecu, hope its not too much. we did get the car all back together and i can't wait to get her running. took some pics and will post what out super awesome rally beater looks like:headbang: sure to get some good laughs. we're trying to figure out what color to pain it though. thanks for the help and if you can think of anything else please let me know. i will keep sorting through all the threads in the search, maybe i can find a wiring diagram and other useful info to print off and keep in the car for future work.

Our 88 DL does not seem to be starting, it cranks, but no fuel or spark. We tested the plugs/coil for spark and nada. Also, we are not getting any fuel pessure form the fuel pump. Upon putting the battery back in the car I accidently swaped the terminals causing one fo the fusable links to blow. We fixed this by hard wiring the fusable link box. We picked up a new coil, plugs, and wires for the car. We pulled the cap on the distributor and the rotor spins. We also tried jumping the fuel pump with a long lead for the battery and no success. We found some green connectors in the upper drivers side of the engine bay, connecting them and and seperating them did nothing. Also, we could not locate the white test connectors in the engine bay. Has anyone here expirienced this? It just seems that I ran into a dead end. I searched for wiring diagrams and it either turned up bad links for pay sites. Were trying to go cheap on this build because it's a practace rally wagon for the upcoming SCCA Rallycorss.

i have some 185/80/15's on there right now (what the car had on when i bought it) and just scored some free wheels the other day:headbang: . they are 15x7's and not too bad of shape. i believe they are american racing wheels. you guys think they won't be too wide? i was thinking of trying to get some falken azenis for these wheels to run the car in autox, and use the stock wheels with the studded tires in the dirt until we can get some actual dirt tires. here's a pic of the freebie wheels i got from work.

just wondering what sizes work with this car, kinda thinking of going with a wider tire for tarmac and trying to figure out what size for dirt. what sizes work without rubbing issues? thanks for the help chris

actually the flywheel is in decent condition. it was a little glazed from the heat, but not bad. we ghetto surfaced it with the trusty ol orbital sander. should be alright for what we want to do with it.

it was fun destroying this clutch within 8 hours of ownership of the car, thats why me and my friend brent are giving each other a high five for our accomplishment.

we pulled the tranny back this weekend and the clutch was toast! just need to get the money for the new clutch and the beasty should be running soon. i'll post pics of the burnt clutch later to give you all a good laugh.

thanks for the pic, i was thinking about puting on a oil press gauge. this helped out a lot.

well, we should be getting a engine hoist today or tomorrow, so engine should be coming out soon. any tips before we pull it out?

i know the belts are close to shot, so those will be getting replaced. we got a new pcv valve and we're gonna clean out the throttle body. we're also trying to figure out how to put on a cone filter, kinda like making a redneck cold air filter. the only problem we have is the maf sensor and how to modify it to slide a filter on it since there is a flange at the end. i was thinking about shaving off the flange so that all thats left is a cylinder to slide the filter over. we'll see about posting pics up about our progress. this is gonna be one hell of a car.

thanks for the input, we will definetly be able to use it. the one thing we've been having trouble on is disconnecting the clutch cable. i searched for a how to and was having trouble finding one. i might have to recommend that the moderators set up a dedicated how to section. anyways, my friend is actually the one working on the car since i am 250 miles away from it and i'm trying to help him via the phone. he says that he wants to pull the engine after he talked to people on nasioc, so it sounds like the consensus to pull the engine out. while he has it out, it does sound like a good idea to change out the rear main seal. i know he is in the process of picking up a clutch kit, so he might be pulling the engine this weekend. anything else you guys can think of replacing while the engine is out? i want to say thanks for your help and input, as i have not worked on a gl wagon before, so this is all really good info. chris

if you want to see if its leaking past the exhaust valve, put that cylinder on tdc for compression stroke and do the compression test. listen in your exhaust pipe for any hissing and/or feel for air. if you hear or feel anything, then you have a nice exhaust valve leak. the same works for the intake valve, but listen and feel on the intake/throttle body open. if you hear a hissing or feel air coming out of the crank case breather, then you have some really leaky piston rings.

burnt up the clutch in my dl wagon and was wondering if there was a how to anywhere, and any tips you can give me to make the job go easier/faster. thanks in advance, chris