TheLoyale
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Everything posted by TheLoyale
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Nope... Still waiting on it :/
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HPS 4-ply Silicone Heater hoses (Waiting on Clamps) Elongated Pitch Stopper. All new PCV hoses and Clamps. Need two 3" T-bolt clamps to finish the intake boot. 2.5" Mishimoto T-bolt clamp. Doors removed to cut the rocker out, so far I only removed the lower portion of the rocker, not sure if I will go anymore or not. I removed a section just under the B-pillar and re-layered it, ground it down to blend it in, once everything is done in this area, a little body filler will make it unnoticeable. The underside 2nd layer. And that was the extent of todays fun!
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Installed HPS Silicone goodies, Mishimoto Stainless T-Bolt clamps, Oh, and I cut a huge hole in the floor pan!
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I'll have to look into that! Thank you.
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No, I just used some black engine enamel. I didn't really prep the engine bay, I just shot it with paint while the motor was out to make it look a little better. I was planning on using black bed liner and make it all nice so it would last.
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That would be amazing! It would be insane to strip the car down to nothing except the shell and have it dipped. I agree, rust would be indeed a thing of the past, given it was never driving in salty conditions ever again (Which I don't intend to ever again anyhow)
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I no longer use POR, its junk and is way to hard to prepare the surface correctly for it to actually bond to the metal. As of recent I've been using a combo of Brush-on truckbed liner and spray on truck bed liner (Duple-color works great) DO NOT use the Rust-olium truck bed liner spray, in time it just flakes off. Basically for entire floor pan (Inside and Out) I use primer on the new bear metal that has been welded in, then I cost that with some type of high solid paint, then one the entire floor is finished (Inside and Out) I then coat everything with some type of brush/roll on trucked liner, something that dries rock hard but thick, after that dries, I may coat the underside of the floor pan with a good paintable undercoating for added protection. What I would really like to do sometime, but would never happen. Would be to take the stripped down shell to a place that does professional bed coatings, cause that stuff is awesome, feels like stone once cured. I would have the entire inside of the car sprayed with it and possibly the underside if they can put it on a Rotisserie.
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Do I need this vacuum hose?
TheLoyale replied to Sapper 157's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147986-my-83-gl-coupe-hardtop-sss/?p=1280249 -
Do I need this vacuum hose?
TheLoyale replied to Sapper 157's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
If you dont have vehicle inspections in ID, just remove every bit of that emission junk, you Hitachi will thank you. I've done it, with photos to both my EA81s. Look at my '83 Hardtop thread in the Members rides section for photos and info on what to remove and reroute. -
Gonna get my '82 4WD bumper from the Skiwagon back tomorrow! Gotta pick it up in West suburbs of Chicago.
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If they make them for the EA82, I will buy a full set front and rear!
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I will trade you for a clean EA82 sedan. I can't deal with rotted out Subarus anymore, top half looks nice, bottom is gone, you have to rebuild the car before you can even build it up! Nico, you have one of the nicest, cleanest builds I have ever seen, and for the fact that everything is almost NOS and is altered, it is amazing!
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Heres some pictures of the cleaned up de-smogged Hitachi! I need a less rusted Air box, but I may be able to fix this one. Here you can see the Main fuel feeder line, the Return, and the Vac line for the throttle/choke thing on the left. And all the blocked off ports that are now unused. I am planning on unscrewing the port ends, and screwing something solid into them so there is no need to worry about failing rubber caps. Here you can see how I ran the Vac Advance off the front of the carb and plugged the other port. No Charcoal canister and lines anymore! This is the breather line for the tank vent, I am planning on hooking this to the air box where suction isn't so absolute as not to draw fuel thru this line, but have it vent into the air box so it can be re-burned if at all. My other thought was to just cap off this line, but I'm not sure what reproductions would happen if the tank can vent? All Wet!
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I'm glad you're gonna take the time on this, I agree, 100% original is what I was going for (With a few added Genuine accessories) and just minor improvements cause thats just me, I like making stuff a little different than factory. I'm sorry I used that Expanding foam stuff in the rear, if was only temp, but I needed to seal it lol. Its a PITA to use, and does not come off your fingers with anything, only time takes that stuff off your skin Haha! Oh yeah, dunno if I told you. the crash bar on the front bottom of the bumper is from an '80-'82 so its way thicker and stronger than the '83+ version. Of and if you're gonna swap the front bumper back to '83+ let me know, I could use that bumper and rubber ends for the Hardtop!
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Front fender flares could work, it would have a more flared rear fender, which wouldn't look bad in my opinion! I'm so happy to see the car is gonna get finished from where I left off. Just remember! If you ever end up putting the ole beast up for sale, I am first in line to possibly buy it back!
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Yeah Jimbo said the same thing. I will try to get some pictures tomorrow if it isn't pouring.
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I do get an ECS light on the EA81 when you drive it long enough, but thats because someone removed the O2 sensor and plugged off the hole with some JB Weld. I am thinking of putting a resister in place of the Oxygen sensor so the computer thinks its there. Or pull the bulb out lol.
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If you don't have inspections or emissions over there, just start removing it all! It'll run the same if not better. WI doesn't have inspections and only does testing for vehicles 1996 and newer (But not all Counties in the state do it) Next up is to totally de-smog the EA82, hoping the ECU won't trigger a CEL. If the '92 Landcruiser does't, I don't see why the Loyale would, but who knows.
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So I finished de-smogging the EA81 today. I even removed the Charcoal canister and everything associated with it. Now the only lines which run to the Carb are the Main fuel supply, the return line, and a vac hose for the Disty advance, every other port on the carb has been capped off along with the intake. I no longer have the EGR hooked up, so its acting as its own block off plate until I make one. Seems to run even better now.
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I still want to get two big round Light Force or IPF lights for in front of the grille, Mounted on some type of bar, I like Light Force because you can change the Lens.
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Also going to post this Write-up here. EA81 Performance Mods. http://www.subarubrat.com/engine.htm
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The SPFI EA81 swap thread is a decent read for anyone. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/14639-ea81-spfi-conversion-and-more-horsepowertorque/page-2
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I need to see what the correct way to de-smog the EA82 is. I totally de-smogged my '92 Landcruiser without creating a CEL and the only things that remain from the Emissions system are the two Oxygen Sensors. So can I take the same steps to the EA82 without causing a CEL? I want to remove everything possible that is not needed for correct operation. ERG, ERG Purge Solenoids, Charcoal Canister, and I think that sums it up. Any info on this would be great! I wouldn't even mind eliminating the O2 sensors if I could put the correct resister in place to trick the ECU, any info on that would also be of great help!
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But the thing to remember is, your wheels stick out further than mine. I bet the backspacing on your are over 5" where as mine are 4.75" as I ordered them in that backpspacing (Also with a 7mm Offset) so they pretty much match the Pugs. The more the wheels stick out, the more you will have to trim for turn in.
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Possibly. I won't know till I get the steering linkage back on. It'll be close, if anything. I'm hoping I may not need to redesign the inner well where the tire may rub. Either way, it won't be hard to add clearance in there since I'm already welding in that area.