TheLoyale

I like this idea, as $30 for a Pt. is costly if it does dry out. Although, I think I read somewhere on POR15s site that they could not manufacture the coating in an Aerosol version as the thinners used for Aerosol style paints would destroy the Coatings ability to adhere correctly due to chemical structure breakdown. And POR-15 is to thick to be used in a spray gun, whether its a Gravity fee or not. All I can say is this BLOWS!

Ha! V-10 Brat... Looked like a mini 4-Runner from a distance with the Topper. I like how this Brat is bagged up pretty severely, but has Zero rust...

I want to say McBrat put coilovers under a 2nd gen Brat at some point. Ask his if e knows anything.

So here is an updated, comeplete list of everything I need to do to get this car up and going, and up to my standard of a DD. These are not in any order. List: 1. Clean, Seal and Install rust free Fuel Tank (Once I get it) 2. Replace pretty much all Fuel and Brake lines under the car 3. Attack the Underside surface rust with a Wire wheel and/or Grinding Disc 4. Weld in needed floor patches 5. Coat underside of the chassis Hard Bedliner, Epoxy Paint and Rubberized Undercoating. 6. Coat inside of floor pan with Hard Bedliner 7. Cut out Old Rockers and Replace with Rust free versions, Coat backing of Panels with Hard Bedliner (Once I get them) 8. Drop Rear Trailing Arm tube, Clean up, Seal up, Reinstall 9. Replace Bad Rear Wheel Bearing 10. Replace Bed Front Axle 11. Replace Radiator, Hoses and Thermostat 12. Replace All Brakes and Wheel Cylinders 13. Change All Fuilds, Oil, Diffs, Coolant 14. Reinstall my Interior 15. Replace Gate Window Seal 16. Replace/Redesign Rotted Front Valance/Rad Support 17. Replace Rear Dampers 18. Crank up the tension in the rear and adjust my front springs 19. Replace Every and All Vac lines 20. Clean Engine Bay and Motor 21. Drive it!

I had the idea to use an EA82 rear coilover in place of the Shock on an EA81 car, the main issue is making space for the Coil spring, a Spacer would be needed for the top to move it outward enough. Using a front strut would be harder in the sense of the top hat being very different along with the lower strut mount which pushes into the Hub. As for Making EA82 lights fit in the rear, sure, anything is possible with sheet metal, welding and bondo. Would be interesting to see done! That rust in the rear strut tower looks pretty bad...:-\

Jon, Yeah there are a few Auto body supply shops around Waukesha, I might even go down to NCS in West Allis since I've been there more then once for the Loyale. Rob, Lol, I just looked at my grill, indeed it is removable! Subaru was thinking ahead for the Tuners of the '00s?

That is possible, I forgot what the Sale ad said, if anything. Its too bad this Brat wasn't taken care of.

I guess we under estimate the Westcoast and their Rust. This is a 1983 Brat out in the PNW and the Rockers are rotted away along with the hood lip. Most of this must have been sitting rust, sitting in a field or something.

I made that mistake about 5 yrs ago on my Loyale, I just covered up the rust with Bondo, as I though that would keep water from getting to it. 2 years later the bondo started pulling away revealing more rust. Needless to say I did it proper last year. RUST is the Enemy! We must eradicate the enemy! Napalm!

Brent, I know about removing the rust before coating it. There is no point on painting over rust, I usually grid it away or use a converter if needed.

*Cough* obviously you have not seen my 4 build threads then...

Where do you buy a Seam sealer product? I will probably just seal it up with bed liner if I put it heavy enough. Good call on Fat mat, I'll look into that.

Removed the Dealer installed A/C. More space. Welded in a patch. 1 of many needed. I think this radiator will make it another 70,000! Little bit of wax brought back the shine (Needs a better waxing though) Front crash bar

Agreed. Do not pull all the wires off the Cap at once swap one wire onto the new cap at a time, make sure you put it on the same terminal ather wise the firing order will be incorrect and backfire (At least there are only 4 wires plus the Coil in the center) try a V-8 Arrg!! :cool:

Haha awesome! What are the odds that someone on here owned that GL!

Black soot could possibly be worn Jets, but I would suspect this to be related to the Cap/Rotor/Plugs if a tune-up has not been done in some time.

Check out the "Art of Subaru Maintenance" videos by MilesFox. Loads of good step by steps.

Harborfreight torque wrenches are pretty good. Whatever you do, DO NOT drop or throw any torque wrench, it will throw off the calibration and will not provide accurate torque readings.

I run EMPIs in my EA82, well built axles and are worth it.

Did not know they unscrewed. Thought it was molded. Fox, helpful info!

Here, this is the $53 EMPI axle which will work for your car. It is 23spline DOJ. 25 spline are for Turbo cars. FWD or 4WD does not matter. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977926

You will need a 36mm Axle nut socket (Any auto place or Sears will have it) A Roll pin punch is a lot easier to use then a screw driver or small bolt. When you retorque the axle nut(s) get a breaker bar, and also a length of pipe and then put all your weight on it. The torque is 150lbs, but I run them a little tighter and never have an issue, you'll feel it stop. Get the Jackstands and breaker bar, save your money on the torque wrench, it is not needed. I never use one (Unless I'm doing Head gaskets.)

What is with this grill. Looks like a factory emblem delete grill? 1983 Brat:

I had the same idea, these are harded steal, but it might loosen it up. Perhaps I'll try this tomorrow since its gonna be 60!

I would like Justys more if they actually sported a Flat style motor...