TheLoyale

The oil leak could look worse then it really is, Most likely it is the Valve Covers and Oil pan which are leaking, then it blows all over from driving, and makes everything wet. Transmission pans are sealed with Fujibond (RTV style Sealant) so you could drop the pan whenever and reseal it with RTV Black (High-Heat Oil resistant) Same goes for the Oil pan, but that involves jacking the motor up to get at the rear most bolts. Valve cover gaskets are easy. As for the Steering rod thing, there is a Tie-Rod on each side of the car, the inner rod screws into the power steering rack, the inner rod has the Boot since there is a Balljoint inside which needs to pivot. The end that bolts to the wheel hub is your outer Rod, that screws to the inner rod and that is also how you adjust wheel Toe alignment. There is also a Balljoint on the outer end (Where it meets the hub) Having ripped Tierod boots are not a big deal, as long as there is no play in the joint, you are safe. If there is play, it is only a matter of time before it fails, jamming the wheel backwards and having no steering control on that side. As for the FWD, that is surprising. All I can say.

YES! The VW pickup!

I cleaned up the Stainless wheel caps with Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish, wow, they look showroom! I really like the Blue centers on these caps.

Just don't be like me and weld Galvanized sheet metal *Cough, cough*

Took that window decal off without damaging the Defrost. Got the new Rockers from Mill Supply, they are indeed EA82. BUT they are complete, with rear pinch weld and front Cab corner.

So these are my findings. Pass. Side Sub-frame. Driver Side Sub-Frame Driver side Rear Trailing Arm Pass. Side

Man! That would fit perfect on the Ski wagon...! Nice find... I gotta find something like that now!

I finally got this thing in the air via Jackstands, This car is solid in all the spots that are normally rotted. The Uniframes are solid (Except for the driver side, right where I usually put a jackstand is gone. The section that comes out towards the door (Like a T shape) So I'm gonna have to rebuild that. Fox, you remember that section on your 3-Door which you rebuilt with layers. I am also going to have to redo all hard lines under the car (Hoping I can get away with just replacing the fuel lines at the moment (So I could at least drive this thing around more! The rear wheel wells are solid, so this car isn't too bad. Just gonna take soem welding

Maxxis Bighorns have raised white lettering *Cough*

To answer the Safariwagon question posted earlier, Perhaps this is Safariwagon - Arctic Tundra Edition.

Yes.

http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?r=ms&p=sm-SUBARU

That would be my assumption, unless there is an issue with the front diff, perhaps a carriage house bearing axle stub bearing. But yeah, a bum Axle could cause some strange habits. Could also be a messed up brake grabbing at wrong times (Might want to check the brakes out) this car might have Drum in the rear, possible return spring broke, so the shoe is flopping around and getting hung up.

The only sticker that is staying on the car would be the Madison Ski. The others had nothing to do with the car, and I don't dig the 70s Sun decal on the window.

What part of the light are the pictures showing?

When I went to the local dealer to order the correct Cap/Rotor, they could not search vehicle using VIN (As it is too old for their Datebase) lol!! The guy said he never looked up parts for a Subaru this old :-p I think this car will be a chick magnet! God knows nothing else has worked thus far. lol.

You would then need a shorter belt, as that moves the Alt inwards more, right?

Look up to your Right (Next to New Posts) that is a search bar. Here is a Search I did for ya, maybe some of this will help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1462429 If the Duty-C is failing, you will get a bucking sensation while driving straight (As both front and rear diffs are trying to engage while on solid ground (Non slick surface) so there if there is no slippage, the axles are binding causing a bucking, noises, shaking etc.. The Fuse is a 15amp (Blue) if you stick a lesser AMP fuse in there, it might not take the load and blow anyway. You could probably stick a 10AMP fuse in there if you have one handy. (There are spares in the Fuse box under the dash)

Understood. I told him to take it up a little higher to give me something to work with.

If its an Inboard (Factory installed) A/C unit, then you have to use some type of Threaded rod and double nut each end, this will keep the stress off the single mounting bolt which bolts to the intake. It will also keep the Alt from twisting. As for discharging the System the correct way, you're on your own. I just open up one of the lines and let it drain out (Use a rag so it doesn't spray everywhere) An Outboard A/C would have been Dealer installed fyi.

Lol, that might be an overstatement. I know you live off a Dirt road on the outskirts of Marshfield and the Amish live down the road. As for finding it again, umm... I remember US. 10 or 11