TheLoyale

Haven't driven it yet, still need to get new rear drums to redress, finish the steering link, pitch stopped, and then I could drive it. But I already took the front seats out again to finish the floor pan.

Its an interesting caculator, now sure how accurate it is. I put the correct gear ratios in for the 5spd EA transmission, and ran it so it'll shift at 4000rpm, it tops out at 117mph, but if I have it ride out to 6000rpm it figures you'll be driving 190mph HAHAHA!

Found lights mounted!

Tamiya TS-73 (Clear Orange) Always works great! Wheels were powder coated white about 5yrs ago lol.

Just got NOS Magnum Fog lights, cleaned them up and planning on mounting them under the bumper. Been looking for some large 80s Fog lights for a while. I tested them with 12v, they are rather bright, the bulb is just an 1156. The reflector is very nice chrome and the design of the lens seems to direct the light the right way. $20 steal!

Man, this coupe' was turning out awesome. You really put the time into and have my respect! It is a total shame you had to get out of it, but I know all about that too well. Hopefully, the car will turn up on here again, would like to see the finished product, and know all this effort wasn't wasted. All the best! -Tom

Finally, a good first look at the ADF Front 6" Lift! Oh, yeah, did I mention, it sits a little higher Also put new Fuel Injection hoses on! Factory original Clamps!

Trans turned out to be a Push-button 4WD 5spd, so its more or less useless to me. But I have it anyway. I did get a flywheel for the D/R, so thats wicked! Orange Marker lights! Tamiya TS-73 does wonders. I am debating on painting the High-beams amber as well...

Are you gonna take to Earl about remaking the decals? I know he can do the large scare stuff and he makes awesome decals!

Also, with using Rust-oleum thats cut with Acetone, theres really no need to worry about fish eyeing and there is no need to put the anti fish eyeing treatment in the paint mixture.

Painting over the decals its gonna be a bad idea, the paint may soak into them or it will start to flake off. You're gonna sand the entire car before painting it, so I would try to use a scraper and remove them that way or a razor blade, it may be time consuming, but why rush it? If anything, get an orbital sander and go to town on those decals that way, there will be a a lot of dust, keep that in mind. OR! You a heat gun on them, it may help to to bake them and then they should come off rather easy. As for painting and guns, I've seen some dude use a Black and Decker sprayer, which had all adjustments on it, I think it was gravity feed with the paint container on top (Which is what you'll want) Or possibly a spray gun from Harbor freight, ones at Menards aren't too expensive and should yield decent options. As for painting, you will want to address all body work, and high/low spots with some body filler just to level it out nicely, sand it all with an orbital sander and some 180grit, then shoot it with some light gray Primer (Self etching should be good) I try to avoid the scratch filler primer as it doesn't bond well to the metal for whatever reason (Could be the prep work) Once primer has set (Could be a few hours or a day) re-sand everything with some 300-400 grit to rough up the primer and remove any sheen, wipe it all down with some acetone, make sure its dry and dust free, and go at it with the paint, always over shoot what you are spraying, do not stop in mid sweet, find a steady pace and you'll do fine. Once the paint sets, for a few days, if you have some dust specs of something, you can use some 1500-2000 grit and do a wet sand on the area, then just buff it out with a good wax or polishing compound. DO NOT WAX PAINT FOR A FEW WEEKS. It is far to soft, wax will just soften it more. Hopefully someone will chime in with some more details, I know enough, but I may be leaving something out.

From what I've read and watched on youtube and other forums. You can get a gallon of Rust-oleum gloss white, get some Acetone, and cut the Paint by 50/50, use a decent spray gun with like 10psi at the tip and go to town. I can't remember exact details, and haven't used this method my self, but take a gander at "Painting your car with Rust-oleum) on youtube, it'll give you a decent idea if you want to go that route

Yeah I know, if I remember, I can just pull the Cam straight out the front of the head. I did cam seals on my motor way back when I did the T-belts. I was just thinking, since I would change the cam's and I'd probably have the motor out anyway, I might as well do a complete reseal and clean up on everything. Does anyone know if Delta cam still does the grind on EA82 cams? Just for future reference.

Gonna be getting a EA82 FWD 5spd trans for the coupe this weekend. Has 110,000 mi and came out of an '86 GL 3-door. Should be able to get the Flywheel too. Just gotta source a pedal box for an EA81 car and whatever other odds to make this a complete swap. Thank you MilesFox and SlickDizzy!

6" ADF front lift is on! Car sits level now. 4" B.O.S.S kit is for sale in the For sale section...

Don't think I did post that! 185/60/14 (22.8") So they are pretty much the stock size in Diameter.

Picked up the 5spd D/R from the Junkyard today. It came out of a White '86 GL from Oregon which moved to IL and must have been impounded. Car was pretty spotless, and actually fired up and engaged the clutch while sitting in the junkyard, had a new Batt and Alt. Car was serviced at Les Schwab. Was a pretty nice car. So heres the Trans, even has rather fresh gear oil in it! Looks like I will need the Trans mount since they cut it off the bushing. PM if you have one! I will also need to buy a new clutch cable, and see what I can do about the Speedo cable. Not sure if the one from the 3AT will work, or if its too short. I also need a manual driveshaft, so PM me if you have one those too! Everything seems solid on the gearbox, output shaft doesn't have much play, nor do the diff stubs. Everything looks pretty good. But I will also need a Flywheel. Can new flywheels be found on eBay? perhaps I will look on Rockauto for a part number and just cross it. Here are the two Levers they cut off. I have the D/R stick which I pulled from the car before they touched or Torched it lol. I also have the gear sector plate and dust boot along with the center console (Its dark blue) :/ Also snagged the Pedal box. So what else do I need to make the 5spd swap pretty much factory? I know the gauge cluster has a Low Range light on it somewhere, but the one in the car was damaged so I didn't pick it up, also I wasn't sure how similar the wiring/connectors would be (Suppose I don't need the Light, nor do I need a Neutral Safety switch) But what do I need to make the reverse lights work? Also, can someone post up or send me some photos of how to extend the Shift and D/R rods?

The Snorkel is an eBay special that fits the Mitsubishi Pajero/Montero. I'll find you a ad on eBay. Bennie actually turned me onto this, I ask him what his snorkel was since it followed the body lines almost identical. He also explained the Heat gun trick to reform the top of the snorkel so it will press up to the A-pillar. Basically, fill it with sand (Playbox sand is what I used) and heat it up right at the 45 or 90* bend it has and just start pulling on it to where you want, run cold water over it to set it in place. WARNING! Just do not heat it up too much, otherwise it'll make that spot shiny. As for the gearbox topic, I guess we'll see what happens. The important thing right now is, I at least snagged a 5spd D/R. Once I get all the welding done, I can then start worrying about modifying the drivetrain

Rear wheels on! Gonna need to rework the rear suspension as well. Looks like I'll need to drop the rear suspension tube. Patrick Anderson, I call upon you!

Got the tires mounted and got'em on! Also got new lug nuts. Definitely an improvement! Also got wiper arms! Hung out to dry right now!

Looked rather mint, but I dunno how it will look once they yank the tranny out of it. I hope they don't trash it, and I hope they don't trash the trans. I will have to see if I can grab the Driveshaft too. Hoping I can snag that pedal box too.

Thank you JesZek for the links! Today, I was walking thru a junkyard and what do you think I found? A practically mint condition '86 GL wagon, 4WD D/R with Gray, Black and blueish interior. The Car is white and does not have roof rack. So, I pulled out some of the interior goods, and I also bought the D/R 5spd! The car has 253k on it, but the trans feels nice and snug going thru the gears and the D/R shifts smoothly. I even started it as it had a new battery, it fired right up on bad gas and I let the clutch out, it grabs. As to why the car was junked I dunno. It was a tow-away car from IL and still has currant registration. The car came from Oregon and was maintained by Les Shwab. Someone loved this car, that is for sure. Interior is mint, except for the blue tape on top of the door panels. Either way, I will have a D/R 5spd now and all the bits to swap it in. I am hoping to pull the Pedal assembly from it since I didn't grab it today. I will also need a good flywheel. I am hoping the trans mount will come with the trans, unless they just cut it. Then I will need one of those as well. Also, is the driveshaft from a 3AT the same as a 5spd or do I need to get one of those too?

Finally painted the 6" front lift from Anderson Design & Fabrication. Coated with Dupli-Colors Truck Bed Coating. Dries rock hard and chip resistant. Much better than Rust-Oliums bed coating which is more like Textured Paint. As for the Tranny/EJ swap and badging in the Snorkel. I have been told many years to swap to EJ because the EA82s are junk. So far, I have proved many wrong with how durable the EA82 can be with typical maintenance, so far with many years and miles running at High RPM because of the 3AT, even with larger tires and probably more load, the motor is probably just as good as when it was knew. I bet if I pulled the heads off, the bores would still have the cross hatching from the Manufacture. Head gaskets are original as well and will remain original until the wonderful day when I do put new cams in it. It may not boost torque a lot, but a added boost pared with a 5spd D/R will surely be just what this car needs. I am compelled to keep the EA82 and not follow the masses with EJ swaps. The only swap I would consider, would be swapping in a diesel if they ever make it to America. I would like to experience the new Diesel motor that they are running in other countries. As for the Transmission, I would enjoy making a transmission like you have Bennie, it sounds like a good combo and possible increase in durability! I'm surprised the 4.44 isn't too much for the 5spd. I know the 4EATs in the 90s Outbacks run 4.44, but then again, they are also Autos. I would think 4.11 with the 5spd would be a good mesh up even with 30s. We will see, the car is ever changing, thats for sure

Bennie, yeah I know, the rust is the killer of this car. I'm just not gonna get into tackling this before the Loyale is done. This year is all about finishing all the metal work on the Loyale before moving on. Then I can have the fun of figuring out where I'm going to get panels and rockers from, They have to either come from a Brat, Hatch or the hardtop. I suppose I could try to make Sedan rockers work, its just gonna take more work. For now, if I can spruce up bits of the car here and there, and get everything mechanically sound, that'll be good. It needs all new brake components and possible rear wheel bearings. I also need to patch fix the currant header until I can make a new one and I also need to sort out the suspension. Rear dampers are brown bread and the fronts aren't much better. Anyway, Tomorrow I shall be getting the new tires, so I should be able to have them on the pugs Wednesday! No more flat tire and ugly black wheels. And since it was a nice 70Deg.F today, I took advantage and waxed everything and also treated all the door seals. That Shine! Its such a shame that this cars fenders have major dents and of course all the rest, cause the paint is in really nice condition.

Looking good!