TheLoyale

$1,100 takes this car, I'm already an extra $400 into this thing with the trans swap, car comes with everything, as is. I am really done with this car, I am just to that point (You've been there) The trans swap did not yield the results I had hoped for.

For the moment, The transmission shifts fine, and enter TC lockup. But in Reverse, I have some serious vibration (This is not a trans mount issue) I also have a tapping in drive while stopped off and on. Also while cornering it feels like something is grabbing the outer most wheel and slowing it down, wonder if the Diff just needs to be worked in? This might have been a waste of $400 and our labor. I am going to adjust the shifter cable today, and look at this thing more. My tranny pan also leaks, after I resealed it (So I am going to use my Original one) as the flange on this one was bent.

Wonder what scrap would pay for this hulk of crap?

I have a '95 4EAT with a bad reverse clutch, slips out of reverse and rarely engages when warm. All forward gears, TC and Duty-C/clutch pack are in good working order. I have no use for this trans, would it be better to part it out vs. Selling the entire trans? Looking for some insight. -Tom (Mods, This is not a For sale thread. More of a question thread)

NGK does make Oxygen Sensors, I have one on the EA82.

Brat TT!

Nippon/Denso is Genuine on most Subarus. NGK if you please...

It has been done to a First gen Legacy wagon. It is not only RWD. But it has a SB 350. Here is one with a 305 (Hope its a 4brl!)

The Gear-looking ring thing was tight, but the little retainer (Locknut thing) was loose. So it makes me wonder. But it feels ok, smooth and easy, and has the same amount of lash on each shaft. Guess we'll see. (Hence the reason of buying an FJ60) the gear box can be someone elses problem

The problem with this is, you might have a Duty-C/Clutch pack failure in that Legacy, which means you need to disassemble the tail housing of the trans to fix. The GLF is a better vehicle, EA81, and a simple trans. GL FTW!

Moog is the best you can buy for anything that has Balljoints. But Beck/Arnley is cheeper and still good quality. On an '03 Subaru, Bosh might be Genuine, as GM owned part of Subaru back then. And we all know how GM is loving Bosh's nuts...

Yeah, a Junkyard isn't going to waste time removing the axles when they have a Torch. Hell, they even cut the exhaust and trans crossmember off (So I have to replace the Tranny mounts with my original ones) they also cut the shifter cable and burn the o2 sensor wiring (Which I can all swap from mine) no biggie. The axles came out easy, someone replace the axle once on that car (Aftermarket DOJ and roll pin) and I think someone was messing with the diff stub bearings/seal or something, as the retainer clip was loose. So I just checked the it out and tightened it up. My end play is good, and there is no other play in the stubs, so I think we're in good shape so far.

$350 4EAT 4:11 173,000. Trans code.

I have, they are fine.

Here is what your Valve covers look like, with a new Fel-Pro seal. Back on the engine.

It will only take you less then an hour, all you are doing it popping off the PCV hose (On each Cover) then undo the 3 10mm bolts, pop off the valve cover(s) peal out the old seal (It'll be hard kinda like plastic) then install your new seal, use the new grommets they give you (Should have 6) line the cover back up, insert the bolts, and torque them down till they are snug (Give it just a little bit more torque) and you are good. Just do not raunch on them, they do not need he-man force. And no, you can leave it over night, just put a towel or rag over the head to protect the rockers/cam from water or dirt.

I also need to grab some new Fuel line to replace the Trans cooling lines with. Anyone know off hand what size it is? 3/8"?

I hear that! The weather we had Tuesday was the cats rump roast. I'll give you a text tomorrow and let you know whats up.

There is no reason to get a realignment after the bearing job. You are only unbolting the tierod end BJ from the Hub, there for the wheel toe will remain the same as before. Part search for B&M is not always accurate, if you go there in person, they can get you whatever you need, they will get it from another yard, make sure its good to go, and sell it to you.

The top most 17mm bolt where the strut meets the knuckle, is the Camber bolt (Has a lobe on the shank) If you loose position of the camber bolt, just put it in, then turn it until the wheel camber is just a little Negative, once you set the vehicle back on the ground, the tire should be sitting flush/flat with the pavement, and you will be good to go. Easy stuff here...

Yes, the entire hub assembly. It will be quicker and easier. You will need an Alignment if you f******* with the inner rods, but if you remove the old one, and get it close, you can adjust it as needed until it does not pull. I aligned my own rods. Check out B&M for a Hub. http://www.bandmauto.com/

Coupes are becoming few and far between, getting onto that one is a good idea. Looks clean.

156k! Its still a baby, sh*t mine has 224k (Was a neglected ghetto car most of its life lol) As for the link pin, yes, it is just a bolt. Unless dude was talking about the swapbar end link (Which is hard plastic) and looks like this: This one is a Performance version with Poly bushings, but looks the same.

Yeah, I trust people who say "Its a rebuilt" about as much as Firestone tires. They might have been new seals, or he reused them, or he over squashed them when new and caused pre-mature failure. Your swapbar link pin is only a 12mm bolt with a smooth shank. You could actually leave the swaybar off if you wanted too, there isn't much difference in handling, unless you are gonna Autocross this thing? How man miles are on this car again?

In order to replace the wheel bearings on an EJ body car, you need to press the new bearing into the hub. Which means, you need to unbolt the strut, balljoint, axle and tierod from the hub to remove it. You will need at least a 12ton press for the bearing. Old bearing will be hard to remove, but will pop with enough force. I have done these on a '95, yours would be the same. In most cases, if you are gonna send 100 for a bearing, its quicker and easier and priced the same to replace the entire hub with another from a Junkyard. That is what I always do. A used good hub from a Salvage yard will be about $120. Any Outback/Baja hub will work, from late 2000-03.