TheLoyale

Because, if I am going to go through the hassle of pulling the motor/trans, I might as well do what I've been wanting to do, and that is convert the Legacy to a 5spd 4.44 I have access to 4.44 Diffs from '90s 4EAT Outbacks, I also have access to an AWD 5spd 90s Legacy. That was the plan someday.

I am thinking TW10 may have just bought the farm on this one. From what Jon (Jboymechanic) has read from his FSM, this 4EAT only has one band (Band Brake?) Although I haven't experienced any of the issues the FSM relates to band failure, so I am still a little puzzled. It drives so F'ing nice forwards, WHY DON'T YOU DRIVE AS NICE IN REVERSE!!?? Anyway, So, my options for this vehicle are: 1. Replace 4EAT 4.11 with another 4EAT 4.11 (Time and Money) 2. Swap 5spd in place of 4EAT, get 4.44 diffs and all related 5spd swap BS (Lots more Time and Money) 3. Strip car of everything, junk shell, sell off as much as I can and buy another Subaru(Less Time, Equal Money, More Dicking around) 4. Junk all 3 of my vehicles, move to a secluded island and hang my self. (More Time, Less Money, Less Fun) Anyone? Bueller, Bueller?

Do you have a linky for such an FSM?

Here we go! Just wish I could read the text. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakeband.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Anyone have anymore info on this? Maybe a picture of a exploided diagram?

1966 Ford Anglia Deluxe. Ford Capri MK2 Ford Escort MK1 S2000 powered Escort!

Did not know they ran a Flat-4. Exhaust ports out the front of the head! Reminds me of the EA65s?

I just ran almost 1 pint of Trans-Tune through it, with no result. I was going to change the ATF/Filter if it would have shown my some sign of getting better, but now I dunno. I don't want to waste $35 on ATF if that is not the issue. I don't have hard shifting though, its smooth as a babys rump roast in all forward gears, just reverse does not work when warm, if it does work, it slips out when you put torque on it (Unless you rev it up to 4000rpm, then it starts to grab a little) I am also not going lay on the grown in 0 Deg F. weather and drop the pan. Guess its going to sit for a little while till I figure out if I'm going to strip it or fix it. MilesFox has Subarus falling out his rump roast from time to time, throw some my way please.... Lol

I know, I need pedel box, ECU, Matching diff, Crossmember. Been there, see it all. Lol, I always wanted to see the easy coast

I need to somehow find a cheep 5spd.

So here is something to chew on, a few days ago, when we had a big snow, I notice that it took a little bit for the rear diff to engage, so basically I'd take off in FWD, then it kicked into AWD. Is this a sign of a damaged clutch pack? I didn't have an binding that I could tell. Does anyone think this could somehow be related to the slipping Reverse? I have to rev it up to like 4000k for it to move a little. When I did get it to grab in reverse, it kept slipping. But forward gears seem to work fine. I am running Trans-tune through it with no result. Also, I might add, when I first tried to put it into reverse today, the shifter was very hard, and once I got it in reverse, the engine stalled (Like there was a load on it) What would cause this? Only did it once so far.

This thread is going in the right direction! Doesn't matter what it is, if you think its cool, post it! 1982GL4, I love that Goliath! The Gray one reminds me of the Ford Angila from the U.K very cool.

Ha! Yeah. a 15 y.o old timing will withstand countless redline shifts in summer, but one day in winter all you want to do is go to the gas station, and the fricken thing blows (Not a true story, just an exaggeration obviously)

I wonder, for the past few days, its been taking a little longer to engage into reverse then before. Could this be a sign of a clogging valve? And now it has clogged most of the way only allowing a very slight grab? Dunno if I should waste the time running Trans-Tune in it then changing out the ATF, I need a slightly better confirmation that this is a more serious issue then just a clogged valve.

Does it make you want to come out of the closest? I'll look up the trans (I mean pants) in my Haynes and see what I see as far as Solenoids go. This kinda blows, Why couldn't it do this last month when it was nice out?

WTF is with that? Was Subaru trying to use more letters from alphabet?

Is there such a thing as a "Duty-B" or was it just a typo for Duty-C? Yeah, I'm going to check this stuff out tomorrow (When its not 9* out) Hahaha! This cannot be serious, All forward gears work flawlessly and so does the Toque Converter Lockup, so I'm a little puzzled. I have zero slippage, and Reversed worked strong when it "did" work. The Sh*t worked just fine two nights ago :-p Time for 5spd, or a FJ60! :cool:

Interesting. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117652

Heres a new one for ya, 4EAT, engages into Drive, shifts through all gears and TC lock up just fine, but reverse does not work. Feels like it wants to engage, but only revvs. ATF looks and smells fine, no odd sounds, drives fine, just does not engage reverse, WTF? Going to check things out tomorrow, any ideas?

I've had the idea of running some of these, maybe swap out the H3 bulbs in my offroad lights for High-Power led versions. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fdrl.html

You consider me a friend on here? But for the past 2 years you have been breakin' my balls over the EA82 being nothing but a trailer queen. Might be, but the point is, I still have a very clean and well done, problem free EA82 which will last me into my golden years. That, is the only thing that counts.

I agree with this, I really don't care either. To each their own. There are pros and cons to every vehicle, why? Because its man made. And I also don't see anything wrong with the 20R or 22R platforms, solid made vehicles in my mind. I give props to the Figure skating reference

Close-mindedness is a flaw that can not be remedied.

The only problem I see with your comment is "Wrangler" Jeep is just a name as is Harley-Davdison. They are unreliable, incapable garbage. The rear problem with Jeep is all the hype over then, but when you look at what you get, its not worth the money. No LSD or Locking Diff standard, Very little suspension travel (Which is why they flip over on the rocks) Short and light weight, another issue. I'm a strong believer that Subaru can out wheel a Jeep on-road or off-road, we've all seen it. But until you have driven a Landcruiser or 4-Runner, you can not base its drivability off any other SUV name. Now, back to Subarus, I personally would drive an EA82 over a Legacy in a blizzard.

4" Lift on a true Outback (meaning, True outbacks have the longer struts, longer steering shaft, and Crossmember spacers) Adding an extra 4" on top of that, and you will need to drop the Front and Rear Crossmembers down more, Longer Steering shaft (Steering column to Steering box) You might need longer soft lines from the brake caliper to the hard line junction on the inner wheel well. And when dropping the front crossmember/motor, you might need to drop or extend the pitch bar for the bellhousing, also might need longer Radiator hoses, alter the intake box somehow with a longer intake tube... The center Driveshaft will not need to be lengthened, unless you are going to change wheel base and go total custom wheeling rig.