TheLoyale

Portal axles That is BAD rump roast!!!

So you're saying that the Gas-Adjust, are Just A Gas like jumpin' jack flash?

KYB GR-2s are good stabilizers for your money, I run them on my Legacy (And have beat hard on them a few times) Really, of the 3 you've listed, they are all good brand models and will do you just right.

Went to the petrol station, put in 5.2 gal divide that by 85 (Which was the milage since the last fill up) that comes out to about 17MPG. Not to bad, If I had matching tires it would probably get a little better.

Since I went to the junkyard to get a filler tube for the Legacy, I also picked up a pair of horns from a '98 Infinity i30, I swapped them in, and they sound much better then the stock horns of the Toyota. I also got my set of HP-LEDs from superbrightleds.com, both dome lights have been changed out with the "Warm White HP" and wow, the interior just glows now! Its really a "Pure/paper white" Vs. "Warm White" very nice! I have also discovered why the passenger side front spring makes so much noise over bumps, someone moved it and it is now seated right on the perch, will to compress it and drop the axle a little to turn it back into position.

1 annoying rattle down, 328 to go!

Replaced the leaking Fuel Filler Tube on TW10 with a rust free part from a '96 Impreza.

Had to replace a leaking Fuel Filer Tube, I found a rust free one off a '96 Impreza. 20 min to install, no more dripping! The elbow had a pin hole in it due to rust.

I'm sure you can do it, its very easy, you can't really screw anything up. You're taking large items off, so just make sure you put them back on how they were. Rust is going to be the main culprit to an issue, things may not come loose, thats when Heat and Deepcreep come into play.

That is totally BS, a dealer can get you anything (As long as its not discontinued) they may have to order it from Subaru, but they can in fact get it. That guy is just to damn lazy. FYI, Manifold studs for a Loyale will work. I think there is also a "Help" brand kit a O'rileys that has the correct threaded studs/nuts.

As long as your wires aren't cracked, you'll be alright. Crackage, will lead to arcing and poor ignition responce. Here are the PCV hoses I am talking about, You will see a 3/4" hose running from the top of the Valve cover (per side) and running torwards the Carb to the PCV valve. Remove each hose and clean them out with Carb cleaner, they tend to get a build-up of oil gunk in them. Also, check your Vaccum lines and replace them as needed, 1/8 inch vac line will work for all the little ones.

As for the SJR hub conversion plates, those are to take the 4x140 hubs and make them work with VW 5x205 wheels (Baja style wheels) I had a set of these plates once. Your best bet is to find a set of Peugeot 505 wheels, as those are 4x140 and will be either 14" or 15" - the XT6 5x100 hub conversion would be worth it though. You could start running newer Subaru parts (From Legacy and Impreza) Strut combos etc.

Yeah pretty much just drop the blocks on top of the struts and your good. It will take a few hours, For the front: Take off wheels, Un-bolt 3 10mm bolts on top of the strut tower, Un-bolt your Tie-rod from the hub (17mm Castle nut) Un-bolt the one 14mm bolt/nut that holds the control arm to the cross member, Un-bolt the 12mm bolt that holds the sway-bar end to the Control arm, Then un-bolt the two 17mm bolts/nuts that hold the Radius rod to the control arm. You might also need to pop the axle off the transmission (Punch out the Roll pin and slide the axle off the trans stub) You should then have enough movement/space to get the block on top of the strut, bolt that down, then get the strut back up into the tower, and reverse everything to re-assemble it. One tip on getting the Control arm end lined back up into the cross member so the bolt goes in is to, loosen the two 17mm Crossmember nuts (Which will start to drop the crossmember/engine) this will give you the added clearence to get the control arm back into the crossmember. (I know, this sounds like a lot of BS, but its very easy once you're looking at it) Also, once everything is back on and torqued down, re-install the 12mm bolt/nut for the sway bar once the vehicle is on the ground (It will be much easier to flex the bar back into place) I can get you pictures of everything I talked about if you want.

Swap in the XT6 5-Lug hubs is straight forward (You might need to make a hybrid axle) as I think the CV spline count is different then the GL/Loyale. The hardest part about all this is, finding all the parts without spending 2 legs, a left nut and an ear... The XT6 are 5x100. So you could run any 5 lug Subaru wheel and countless other brands. As for your lack of power, try a full tune up, NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs and NGK wires if you want. New cap and rotor, Fuel filter, Air filter, Clean out all your PCV hoses (Ones running from each Valve cover) Clean the MAF, run some Seafoam through the brake booster and in your fuel. That'll give it a good start. Its an EA82, 1781cc Carb'ed Flat-Four, how much power do you want? Lol. You make about 85hp and a 101ft.tq At least you have a 5spd. Try my 3AT

Looking pretty nice. As for your seat question, you could try finding some out of a First gen Impreza. I saw one at a Junkyard with very firm narrow seats (Very simular to the EA82s) You could still use the EA82s seat track and swap the new seat onto it (I've done that with my Legacy) Welcome to the crew. -Tom

Also, if you go over 2" - you will need to get a longer hydraulic soft line (From the brake caliper to the hard line junction on the wheel well)

With a 2" lift you do not need to lengthen the steering shaft, as you don't need to lower the Crossmember. For a 2" lift, all you are doing is putting a spacer block on top of the strut to (In a sense, push the body up, being a Uni-body) So the lift is straight forward. If you go bigger then 2", you will need to drop down the crossmember (Motor and all) - depending on the lift size, you can use a Steering shaft from a Outback ('95-'99) as it is longer and will work perfectly. You will also need to make a longer engine pitch stopper bar. You also need to drop down the rear diff and mustach bar. If theres anything you want to know, just ask. I know a few tricks on installing the lift. -Tom PS: this is the steering shaft (Its a double U-joint style) this is the only thing that would need to be longer. This picture is of one from a Forester which would also work.

I like this!

Repainted the center console deck. Before: After: The "Eye" of creativity has been awoken.

Going to be installing a Timing Kit on my buddy Jon's '96 Brighton (Phase-I EJ22) tomorrow. I have ground down a rust spot on the rear door of TW10, hit it with some ceramic primer and then Satin Black and "BOOM!" no more rust spot. Rustolium cars are so easy to fix.

Whats next for Safariwagon? Next spring I am replace Struts all around with KYBs. I may also get some Epoxy paint and repaint the springs Gray. Since this thread is winding down for the time being, follow Safariwagon-II "The Landcruiser Build"

Planning on storing this beast in my garage for the winter.

Thanks for the link, I will be going with those instead. Took the front bumper off again, heated it up and hammered it back into place, its almost flush with the front valence now.