TheLoyale

This is what I plan on running for the High-beams: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50W-55W-HID-kit-xenon-H1-H3-H4-H7-H8-H11-9006-9007-9005-/180725195025?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a140fa111#ht_7005wt_963

I just bought a set of 35w 5000k Bi-xenon HIDs for the Low beams on the Toyota. I am also going to swap out the high-beams when I get more money. Getting to the bulbs on this thing is kinda PITA, for the driver side, you need to remove the engine bay cooling fan (Yes it has a cooling fan for the engine bay that blows onto the Intake) and for the passenger side, you need to remove the battery. Now if I can find a place for these thin ballasts we're in luck! On another note, I painted the center console lid and the rear view mirror semi-gloss black (Rustolium truck bead liner) looks much better and works well with the interior.

Thin plain screwdriver, and work it gently. That's how I've done it.

Just placed an order with Superbrightleds.com for two High Power SSL Futon bulbs to replace both Dome lights. I ordered them in the "Warm White" Vs. the "Cool White" which I have put in both Subarus. I am also thinking of adding under-dash floor lights at some point, Blue will work nicely (I've done that in the Loyale)

Thanks for the encouragement, Yeah, I've heard about Caster issues and such. I would like to go with the 3" Old Man Emu lift (Come with longer HD shocks and longer Springs along with spaces for the links to keep stock caster) My ultimate goal would be, 3" lift, 33x10.5x15 OR 33x12.5x15 BFGoodrich KM2s. Steel Expedition Basket, Lights, Spare tire onto Vs. under the truck, maybe add a Snorkel for shiggles. 5000k HID swap for Low and High-beams and random other goodness.

You have put a lot of time and care in that car, I remember when you did a lot of that stuff. Turned out very nice! I also love that you've done write-ups of everything. Cheers and bravo indeed!

Thank you, take your time. I am looking forward to see it and what he has done. It'll give me some ideas for sure Heres a few new pictures, New LED side markers. TRD Badges.

2" SJR Lift 27" Maxxis Bighorns 14" Peugeot 505 steelies (Powder coated)

Ask and you shall receive.

The LCD screen could have just failed over the years.

Is the only difference of the trip comp clock, the color? Orange vs. Green? I must say, I do like the orange. They should have made an Ice blue version

But wheres the fun it that?

'92 Loyale with extras from GL10s. '95 Outback with extras from newer and older Subarus.

I am not going to make this another "Opinion based" thread, but I will say, your EA82 will love running Conventional 10w-40 year round. You could run a higher grade of gear oil if you wish, that really won't hurt anything, Royal Purple or Lucas is good for gear oils. And for an ATF, I like to run something for higher milage trans. Just my two cents. Cheers, -Tom

Finally, after long awaiting, I have found someone with a set of the door panel switch trims and clear corner lights. All for $50 out of Canada eh hoser! Now I will have a complete interior and the clear corners will give it the non-USDM look!

Here is an pretty cool link to some offroad/modified Toyotas. http://toyota.4x4offroads.com/

I agree with both of your posts, It will be a long running project as are my other two cars I will need to fix the CD player and LCD display if I were to keep the original HU. The CD player does not read discs and ejects them right away (Stuck/sticking Laser eye) nothing a little rubbing alcohol won't fix. As for the Screen, I don't know, might be a loose connection, I dunno if it has a ribbon connection or if its soldered onto a board. I will discover that when I remove the radio I'm sure. Anyway, sorry I haven't really taken any pictures for the updates like I normally do, just kinda busy with a relationship and such. Never fear all, this thread will pick up very soon!

So, that thread does really help a lot. Yes, an aftermarket HU will work, you just need to bypass the AMP which has a "White" Plug, then use a wire adaptor "Scoshe" and connect it to both of the Gray connectors. I guess in doing this, the rear most speaker (In the cargo area) will not work (As the amp powers that so I've read) In that case, I can always run power from one of the door speakers to power the 9th speaker and voila! Done. My plan on a speaker set up is: Run 4-ways in all 4 doors Replace Dash tweeters with better tweeters (Maybe super tweeters) Replace the roof tweeters with the same and either run another 4-way in the cargo area or maybe just a sub. Now if I ever run into the money I think shocks and tires are a high priority

I find this odd, the Clock should keep in memory when the battery was pulled (Power was lost) How can it keep accurate time with no other 12v backup? My '92s Clock still works right and proper.

"Almost Genuine"

Yeah that makes sense, I just found out that the system does have its own AMP thats not built into the radio. So, I guess I will have to pull the radio and see just whats what. The way the speakers are in the vehicle are as follows: 2 Dash tweeters, 2 Mids Front Doors 2 Mids Rear doors 2 Tweeters in rear cargo ceiling 1 Sub in cargo area

I have put a little TRD goodness on it as of recent. Main two things I need to do is Tires and Shocks. Tires will run close to $1,000 and shocks will be about $140ish. Not enough play money as I once had, I haven't been able to get things done on the rig that I wish I could've. One thing I need is a new Head unit and some speakers which aren't blown (I have a stock 9 speaker system) so I wonder what'll happen if I replace the radio with a Pioneer? Is there most likely a built-in equalizer on the stock radio to control all 9 speakers? I really don't want to have to run an AMP to still use all 9 factory speakers. Thoughts?

Looks nice! I would know that Yamaha blue anywhere!

Is that a Yamaha in the garage?

This video makes me laugh at the end